2014 breeding season begins, post your results

I got safe guard. Once they are old enough to start worming I will start worming them but I'm going to have them in my room for a few weeks then move them to a brooder and then eventually the ground. I don't pay attention to the humidity I just keep the part were it holds water I keep it full of water. Usually when I hatch out chicks that have dates apart I just move the egg away from the hatching egg and try and keep the chick from scrambling the others.
You better also get the metronidazole. If you can't afford it, just PM your address to me and I'll mail you some pills for free.

So you have no idea what your humidity is then, right?

-Kathy
 
@Birdrain92 , not picking on you, just trying to share info based on my experiences. If you have set *pea* eggs this way before and had all of them hatch then no reason to worry, I guess.
big_smile.png


-Kathy
 
Must haves for my blackhead and coccidiosis first aid kit are:

  • Corid 9.6% solution - For coccidiosis. Easy to give orally in an emergency. Dose is 9.5ml per gallon for 5-7 days. In addition to that, I also give and oral dose of .2ml per 2.2 pounds.
  • A sulfa drug like Dimethox or Albon (Sulfadimethoxine), Sulmet (sulfamethazine) or SMZ/TMP (sulfamethoxazole and trimethoprim).
  • 250mg metronidazole tablets - For blackhead protozoa and some intestinal infections.
  • 10% Baytril (100mg/ml) - For most gram negative infections, especially E. coli.
  • Tube feeding syringe and *proper* tube.
  • Kaytee Baby Bird Food for tube feeding.
  • Pedialyte
  • Safeguard (fenbendazole).
  • Scale.
  • 1ml syringes.

-Kathy
 
'Grats on your first 2014 PeaBabies Kathy! Any White flights on these babies? I can't remember reading if the parents had White flights or not...
 
'Grats on your first 2014 PeaBabies Kathy! Any White flights on these babies? I can't remember reading if the parents had White flights or not...
Thanks! Both are out of my 2009 hen Spot, she has a small spot on her throat and some white primary coverts, maybe white alua, but no white primaries (flights). Neither of the boys have any white, but it looks like chick #2 has maybe one white flight.


Source: http://swittersb.wordpress.com/2011/03/05/fly-tying-a-whole-wing-what-to-do/wing-anatomy/

-Kathy
 
I got safe guard. Once they are old enough to start worming I will start worming them but I'm going to have them in my room for a few weeks then move them to a brooder and then eventually the ground. I don't pay attention to the humidity I just keep the part were it holds water I keep it full of water. Usually when I hatch out chicks that have dates apart I just move the egg away from the hatching egg and try and keep the chick from scrambling the others.

You must be using one of the GQF Styrofoam incubators right? I bought a second one of those so that once I need to put eggs in lockdown I use the second incubator for lockdown and the first one for the other eggs not in lock down. So do you just keep both sections of the water tray filled at all times from start to end of the hatch? I guess if you do it that way and that works for you then there is no need for a second incubator.

Kathy the Styrofoam ones have a plastic water tray that comes with it and in the instructions it tells you to fill one part of the tray and then for the lockdown fill both sections in the tray. I have never measured my humidity I just do it this way and have hatched peachicks. I only measure the temp but that is it. It is a pretty nifty incubator I really love it.
smile.png


I let my boyfriend borrow one of these incubators to hatch that egg I gave him last year and there were some times that I would visit him and the water tray was completely empty!
th.gif
I would freak out and get on him for not keeping up with filling the tray and so I would add water but the egg still hatched!
 
Mine is a Styrofoam incubator it has tray under the tray the eggs sit on and it says keep full with water and then when hatching comes then I got to take out the plugs. What is lockdown? Is it when you have eggs hatching and you move them away from the other eggs or something because I've never heard of lockdown for an incubator.
 
I put the new eggs in when I have to rotate the eggs that way I'm not disrupting the eggs more then needed.
Hun how you gonna rotate them if you are suppose to be in lock down(NO OPEN INCUBATOR FOR 3 DAYS) heck when you start your lock down the way you got them set you will be in lock down for like 9 days with just 3 eggs
th.gif
 
Yep lock down is when the eggs are about to hatch in around three days. This is when you stop turning them, add more water, etc. You have to stop turning them so that the chicks can position themselves correctly for hatching and of course the extra water is to make sure that when they are hatching the membrane doesn't dry out and stick to them making it hard for them to get out of the egg. During this time you don't open the incubator. That is why I bought a second incubator for lock down. I think I normally start lock down once I reach 25 days of incubation.

I am about to candle my two eggs...It is a bit early to see something probably but I just want to check and see if their air sack is okay and not detached from shipping. I really hope both eggs will look perfect!!!
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom