3 types of worms. One hen almost dead Not sure vet is correct on dosage. Pls help

[ToniaM]

Very sick hen and another one somewhat sick just not lethargic…yet.
Brought poop to my dogs vet for fecal float. Came back with Capillaria, round and cecal worms. I have never wormed my chickens, from what I’ve read only worm when needed and I had no idea they have worms (lesson learned).

I have Valbazen and safeguard liquid. She said they are both the same class of dewormer not to use both. Told her I want to use Valbazen since I’ve read it treats more and to be honest, I have over 20 chickens and that would be more than complicated to treat them several days in a row with the safeguard. It’s my understanding with Valbazen you treat once orally then again I’m 10 days and you’re done.

She advised me to give the bantams .5cc and the large fowl 1.1cc. And to do this for 3 consecutive days.

I believe this goes against everything I’ve read here. Or is it because they have 3 types? I just want to make sure and do this right. I take awesome care of my chickens and they give back just as awesome!

TIA

 

[Wyorp Rock]

Valbazen dose is 0.08ml per pound of weight given orally once, then repeated in 10 days. This *should* treat Capillary worms as well.

How much do your birds weigh?


https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...s-for-poultry-waterfowl-and-game-birds.75490/

 

[dawg53]

Do what the vet advised you to do since you've never wormed your birds. Capillary worms are killers, you dont want to mess around with them. Valbazen will take care of them.

Dose the large fowl 1/2 ml at a time though. If you give them 1ml all at once orally, they can aspirate. Have two preloaded syringes containing 1/2ml in each syringe (without needles.)
Go out to the coop early in the morning while it's still dark and use a flashlight to see what you're doing. Bring the syringes and bottle of Valbazen with you.
Grab a bird off the roost and cradle the bird in your forearm. Then use your thumb and finger and pull straight down on her wattles and her mouth will open. With your other free hand, grab the preloaded syringe and dose her orally with the 1/2ml Valbazen and quickly let go of her wattles so she can swallow the liquid on her own. If you dont let go of her wattles, she will aspirate and then there will be big trouble. Then grab the other preloaded syringe and repeat the procedure. Then let the hen go. Then grab another bird off the roost and repeat this procedure until they are all done.
The bantams will be easier for you since they get 1/2ml and only dosing them once.

The reason you dose them early in the morning when it's dark is because they cant see in the dark and usually wont struggle while your dosing them. If they struggle, hang on and they'll tire out. Or, you can have someone else hold the bird for you, but you still have to release the wattles to avoid aspirating the bird.
More importantly, your birds will have empty guts and will be starving, so will the worms and they will be at their weakest, making the wormer more effective eliminating the worms.
Birds that dont have wattles or small wattles, simply pull down the skin on the upper neck or the skin under their lower beak and their mouth will open.

Once you're done worming them, hold off feeding them for at least 3 hours. This will give time for the wormer to do its job.
Then when you go to feed them, give them a little feed at a time, gradually increasing feed rations throughout the day back to normal feeding.
The reason you do this is that your birds will be starving and will gorge feed possibly causing impacted crop or gizzard.

There's nothing saying that you have to worm all your birds in one day. Worm your bantams first. Then worm the rest of your birds the next day if you wish.
Do as directed by the vet and dose all your birds 3 days in a row.
THEN, worm your birds monthly thereafter; dose once, then repeat again in 10 days as mentioned by @Wyorp Rock.
The reason you do this is that your soil is contaminated with worm eggs and reinfection will occur. Worming monthly will prevent further worm infections.

As far as eating eggs, we eat the eggs after using Valbazen or Safeguard. Both are benzimidazoles and are mostly excreted. The rest are absorbed into the bloodstream and a small amount in eggs. However, if you suspect that you or a family member might have a reaction to the albendazole residue in the eggs, toss them in the garbage for 2 weeks after the last dosing. Also, do not sell nor give away eggs.
Good luck.

 

[ToniaM]

Valbazen dose is 0.08ml per pound of weight given orally once, then repeated in 10 days. This *should* treat Capillary worms as well.

How much do your birds weigh?


https://www.backyardchickens.com/ar...s-for-poultry-waterfowl-and-game-birds.75490/

Thanks for responding. They weigh varying amounts. I could’ve weighed them but went ahead as vet said in general. If one felt middle weight we gave slightly less.

 

[ToniaM]

Do what the vet advised you to do since you've never wormed your birds. Capillary worms are killers, you dont want to mess around with them. Valbazen will take care of them.

Dose the large fowl 1/2 ml at a time though. If you give them 1ml all at once orally, they can aspirate. Have two preloaded syringes containing 1/2ml in each syringe (without needles.)
Go out to the coop early in the morning while it's still dark and use a flashlight to see what you're doing. Bring the syringes and bottle of Valbazen with you.
Grab a bird off the roost and cradle the bird in your forearm. Then use your thumb and finger and pull straight down on her wattles and her mouth will open. With your other free hand, grab the preloaded syringe and dose her orally with the 1/2ml Valbazen and quickly let go of her wattles so she can swallow the liquid on her own. If you dont let go of her wattles, she will aspirate and then there will be big trouble. Then grab the other preloaded syringe and repeat the procedure. Then let the hen go. Then grab another bird off the roost and repeat this procedure until they are all done.
The bantams will be easier for you since they get 1/2ml and only dosing them once.

The reason you dose them early in the morning when it's dark is because they cant see in the dark and usually wont struggle while your dosing them. If they struggle, hang on and they'll tire out. Or, you can have someone else hold the bird for you, but you still have to release the wattles to avoid aspirating the bird.
More importantly, your birds will have empty guts and will be starving, so will the worms and they will be at their weakest, making the wormer more effective eliminating the worms.
Birds that dont have wattles or small wattles, simply pull down the skin on the upper neck or the skin under their lower beak and their mouth will open.

Once you're done worming them, hold off feeding them for at least 3 hours. This will give time for the wormer to do its job.
Then when you go to feed them, give them a little feed at a time, gradually increasing feed rations throughout the day back to normal feeding.
The reason you do this is that your birds will be starving and will gorge feed possibly causing impacted crop or gizzard.

There's nothing saying that you have to worm all your birds in one day. Worm your bantams first. Then worm the rest of your birds the next day if you wish.
Do as directed by the vet and dose all your birds 3 days in a row.
THEN, worm your birds monthly thereafter; dose once, then repeat again in 10 days as mentioned by @Wyorp Rock.
The reason you do this is that your soil is contaminated with worm eggs and reinfection will occur. Worming monthly will prevent further worm infections.

As far as eating eggs, we eat the eggs after using Valbazen or Safeguard. Both are benzimidazoles and are mostly excreted. The rest are absorbed into the bloodstream and a small amount in eggs. However, if you suspect that you or a family member might have a reaction to the albendazole residue in the eggs, toss them in the garbage for 2 weeks after the last dosing. Also, do not sell nor give away eggs.
Good luck.

Thank you also for responding. I’ve read so many post from you and Wyork Rock y’all are so awesome to take the time to help so many! I was hoping one of you would reply.

It’s gone very well actually. The ones I thought would give me trouble were the biggest babies. Not sure next time will be so easy since they are aware. Half are used to being handled, we will see.

Another thing we did was dust above their vents and under their wings with Permethrin .25%. Hoping that in conjunction with the dewormer won’t OD them?

Your explicit details was a huge help as well. Thanks again!

 

[ToniaM]

Thank you also for responding. I’ve read so many post from you and Wyork Rock y’all are so awesome to take the time to help so many! I was hoping one of you would reply.

It’s gone very well actually. The ones I thought would give me trouble were the biggest babies. Not sure next time will be so easy since they are aware. Half are used to being handled, we will see.

Another thing we did was dust above their vents and under their wings with Permethrin .25%. Hoping that in conjunction with the dewormer won’t OD them?

Your explicit details was a huge help as well. Thanks again!

Sorry, one more question. My daughter’s dog is the biggest protector of the flock and in return they feed her poop snacks. I fuss her to stop but she’s definitely has eaten it many times, gross. Vet said not same type of worms she won’t be infected but, seems at least round worms are the same type and I’ve read they are. What’s the opinion on this? If so, can I deworm her with Valbazen or safeguard goat liquid? Other sites/blogs I’ve read say yes, then again, I have such trust in y’all’s opinions!

I so appreciate everything!

 

[dawg53]

Sorry, one more question. My daughter’s dog is the biggest protector of the flock and in return they feed her poop snacks. I fuss her to stop but she’s definitely has eaten it many times, gross. Vet said not same type of worms she won’t be infected but, seems at least round worms are the same type and I’ve read they are. What’s the opinion on this? If so, can I deworm her with Valbazen or safeguard goat liquid? Other sites/blogs I’ve read say yes, then again, I have such trust in y’all’s opinions!

I so appreciate everything!

Valbazen will treat dogs with worms requiring a longer treatment period if I'm not mistaken.
You can purchase a 6 month supply of Interceptor Plus from your vet with correct dosing weight for about the same price as a 500ml bottle of Valbazen and only give one chewable tablet to your daughter's dog once a month rather than multiple dosings with Valbazen.

 

[ToniaM]

Valbazen will treat dogs with worms requiring a longer treatment period if I'm not mistaken.
You can purchase a 6 month supply of Interceptor Plus from your vet with correct dosing weight for about the same price as a 500ml bottle of Valbazen and only give one chewable tablet to your daughter's dog once a month rather than multiple dosings with Valbazen.

She’s already on ProHeart injection for heartworm prevention, would hate to double dose her on that. Maybe I will have a fecal test in her in a couple weeks just to see and go from there.
Earlier you mentioned the soil is contaminated, is there a way to treat the ground? Their run is 12x60 and covered in hard mulch that we add a trailer load to every 6mths or as needed. I can take all of that out and put fresh in. They free range daily on an enclosed 1/2 acre and then most afternoons til dark they also have access to much more property. It would be a lot to treat…I’m willing to if it’s not super expensive and worth it.
I do a thorough cleaning of coops every 6mths, actually just did it last weekend, along with daily cleaning/scooping the sand trays under roosts. I spray permethrin and use DE in coops as well. I will do it again after this treatment is over or should I wait a couple of weeks?
Sorry so many extra questions. I just always thought I was doing a fairly decent job at this and apparently I’m not.

 

[dawg53]

You are doing a good job, dont underestimate yourself. If chicken's feet touch the ground, they're going to get worms, I dont care what anyone says.

It's always best to keep everything as dry as possible. Warm moist/wet soil is worm soup.
I use sand in my pens and coops, even nest boxes.
Sand helps keep everything dry. It doesnt create nasty mudpuddles that birds love to drink, it dries quicker than dirt or mud and doesnt wash away. Think beach. It helps deter insects and parasites. Besides, it's easier to scoop poop.

Direct sunlight will kill worm eggs on soil, but not worm eggs in the soil. Chickens constantly pick and peck the soil. When they do that, they pick up worm eggs and swallow them starting the roundworms lifecycle. It's called the Direct Lifecycle of poultry worms, look it up and it will help you understand what's happening.
The Indirect Lifecycle requires a host, such as an insect contaminated with worm eggs and then the insect is eaten by a chicken Then the chicken becomes infected.

I looked up Proheart injection for dogs and it is Moxidectin which takes care of roundworms. So, no worries and no need to see the vet their unless the dog gets tapeworms. You would see rice like segments in feces. Same for chickens.

 

[ToniaM]

You are doing a good job, dont underestimate yourself. If chicken's feet touch the ground, they're going to get worms, I dont care what anyone says.

It's always best to keep everything as dry as possible. Warm moist/wet soil is worm soup.
I use sand in my pens and coops, even nest boxes.
Sand helps keep everything dry. It doesnt create nasty mudpuddles that birds love to drink, it dries quicker than dirt or mud and doesnt wash away. Think beach. It helps deter insects and parasites. Besides, it's easier to scoop poop.

Direct sunlight will kill worm eggs on soil, but not worm eggs in the soil. Chickens constantly pick and peck the soil. When they do that, they pick up worm eggs and swallow them starting the roundworms lifecycle. It's called the Direct Lifecycle of poultry worms, look it up and it will help you understand what's happening.
The Indirect Lifecycle requires a host, such as an insect contaminated with worm eggs and then the insect is eaten by a chicken Then the chicken becomes infected.

I looked up Proheart injection for dogs and it is Moxidectin which takes care of roundworms. So, no worries and no need to see the vet their unless the dog gets tapeworms. You would see rice like segments in feces. Same for chickens.

At what point should I clean out the bedding in the coops? I was going to do one more dose ion day 10 just to be sure worms and eggs are gone Someone has dark green spinach looking poop, not sure why. I read it could be they are starving but they are all eating well I believe. Can this be a side effect from Valbazen?