8 x 12 Woods coop design - plan

If you get 90's in the summer, DO NOT......I repeat....DO NOT omit the side windows. You need them for summer ventilation. The way I did it is not hard, is cheap and effective.

And plastic over the scratch shed is good, but not clear. I'd stick with an opaque to let in the light, but not the heat.

You could use clear plastic roof panels for the monitor windows. Those can be fixed and need not open. My temps are still up after 5 years.

BTW, 5 years and still zero, zip, nada in the way of predator or any other death loss inside the house. A climate friendly Fort Knox.
I was not planning on omitting the openings, just glass or plastic. Hardware cloth only.
 
This design is based on Drawings and description in Modern Fresh Air Poultry Houses by Prince T. Woods, MD.

Also inspired by several other Woods House builds posted on BYC.

I have modified my plan to 8x12, primarily to take advantage of standard plywood being 4x8. Second consideration was being able to easily move it. It also happens to comply with local building code in terms of size and being "temporary".

Some details are still left out. For example, I have not settled on my windows, so I haven't drawn in the framing. It should have one on both sides of the front shed and possibly one in the rear opposite the door. And the monitor windows at top.

The floor is actually 7' 9" wide x 12' long. That allows you to use 8' wide plywood on the roof after adding siding and trim. I'm starting with 4x6 pressure treated beams for skids, set 6' apart, with 4x4 in between near the front, rear and center. Even though it's PT, I will level it up on piers or blocks. Floor would be framed with 2x4 on 16" center. Then 3/4 plywood.

View attachment 1264510

The walls are framed with 2x4, on 24" center, with no top plate.
The center monitor beams are a built up beam consisting of 2 - 2x6s with 1/2" plywood sandwiched in between. Glue it together with liquid nails and screw or nail it together. The beam across the front opening can be the same, only with 2x4, it has a center post.

View attachment 1264515

This currently shows the door, but does not have the windows.
The top of the monitor beam is 8' from the bottom of the floor framing. So one piece of plywood covers without a seam. Because of the door and where a window may be on the other side, you could probably work this out different and have it a little taller. But 8' was simple and fell in place with the other dimensions.
The bottom of the lower window sill beam is 5' from the floor.

View attachment 1264516

Front would be open, screened with hardware cloth. Big windows on both sides of the front shed and one window in the back opposite the door, depending on where nest boxes end up. And upper monitor windows.

View attachment 1264546

The current version of this Sketchup model is here.
https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model/4b95e6b6-534b-4c01-8f35-30eff7f29fdd/8x12-Woods-Poultry-house
Just saying... it looks great!!!! What is the area on the left for?
 
I was not planning on omitting the openings, just glass or plastic. Hardware cloth only.

Sorry.....didn't see that part. As long as you have the openings......you can always add coverings later.

With windows closed.....nearly always dead calm in the back where the roosts are. With windows open, air swirls around in back. In practice, I leave windows closed from about Oct to mid April. General dividing line is when low temps dip below freezing. Below, close em. Above....open em.

Temp extremes my birds have been exposed to are -15F to upper 90's F. They all survived. But at -10F, birds like a RIR with long comb will get tips of combs nipped.
 
Temp extremes my birds have been exposed to are -15F to upper 90's F.

My temps range from the occasional lows in the 20's, more often in the 30's to 90's in summer.

My current coop is pretty open air, it is linked in my profile I think the Woods coop would offer more protection than my current set up. I also plan on making it bigger than some of the plans I have seen here, the wall with the upper windows will be 10' sloping to an 8' wall in back, the front will start about 8' and slope maybe to 7'
I do not want to have to bend over to walk around, and I will be on a dirt floor so the DLM can and will pile up to a foot deep. It is still in the planning phase, all in my head for now. I may dig it out, and run a foundation wall around the bottom a couple of blocks deep that will give me more headroom...

Gary
 

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