Thank you bgmatt! I was hoping you'd be willing to give me advice here!
I have been thinking about dropping the Phoenix, though they do make nice little broodies--if I do keep any of them it will likely be the fawns if I can get that color and pattern where I want it. The Brabanters may or may not be around after this year--if I do keep them it will likely only be the gold and I'll get rid of the creme.
I'm putting eggs in the incubator today--plan to set about 3 dozen Langshans with the plan of having two trios max from the hatch by fall. One GOOD thing about culling is that I get a really, really good look at the carcass quality, and since the breed was originally multipurposed including as a table fowl that's a big factor in the birds I plan to keep. The Langshans I have right now are good layers, but personally I think they're a bit on the small side, and I had some issues with stiltiness on last year's hatch--the culls made good eating, but the depth of breast and therefore the amount of meat just wasn't there. That's not to say they should be built like a Cornish, though!
The good news is that I do have space--one whole wall of the garage is devoted to brooder space (with removable partitions so I can change the configuration as my needs change over the course of the season), the empty fish room in the basement can house both incubators and brooder cages, and there's plenty of room for arks and runs as the weather stabilizes, not to mention the freestanding poultry sheds with attached runs (and the plans to build one more that's a combo of shed/runs/greenhouse this summer). The good thing with the Langshans is that, unlike the bantams, they're big enough the Cooper's hawks don't seem to go after them, so the adult birds free range much of the time here outside of breeding season. I do have issues with raccoons, but the birds get locked up every night without fail--they're definitely happier and healthier when they can roam and eat bugs!
I'll have to look up the historical reference you listed. The way I look at it, the history of the breed explains may of the characteristics I should look for and preserve as a breeder. The characteristics people selected for at the time the standard was established are what should define the breed today, IMO.
And yes, agree totally you can't fix too many things at once. I'm fortunate that I started with birds that are healthy, disease resistant, and fertile. Size and stiltiness (which seem to me to be interrelated) are tops on my list this season. I carried over five cockerels and pullets and did the last culls early this month (cockerels: one stilty, two with side sprigs though they had great type), and have two pullets who are in the layer-only pen due to lack of correct leg/toe feathering and purple on some feathers. Have one more cock (the foundation bird) who is not in the breeding pens this spring--the two sons I kept are better birds--but who is still around as a backup since he throws good birds. So, if his sons turn out to throw crappy offspring I can still go back to the foundation....Ditto for the senior hen.
So, I hope to bring up the size and get better body depth/less stiltiness for starters overall. The hens look a little narrow through the tail now that I've been looking at good Langshans here (though they have nice depth of body and nice tail carriage), so I hope to fix that with the nice wide tails on the cocks I kept. I have one hen I kept with white tips on her toe feathering and made darn sure she's in the pen with the cock that has NO white anywhere since she had what I consider to be the best body type. Total breeding pens for them is two quads, and if I go much higher than that each spring it probably means I'm not being selective enough.
I do hope to show them in Columbus in November and get feedback not just from the judges but from other breeders. You are absolutely right that the best show birds may not be the best breeders--I've seen it time and time again with my sheep. One other factor, of course, is that some breedings just "click" and consistently throw offspring better than either parent (have a few ram and ewe pairings that work that way right now). Sometimes you just don't know what sort of breeders you're working with until the first offspring hit the ground....
Catherine
A good rule of thumb is for every bird you wish to keep hatch 10. So if you're hatching and raising about 30, that should give you three solid birds to add to your breeding program. Glad you are keeping an eye on carcass quality, not many folks these days actually eat their Langshans, which is an important aspect of the breed in my view.
Sounds like you've got a good handle on space. Langshans do well on range (although I don't, too much risk, more so biosecurity from wild birds than predators though).
Historical traits are nice, but why limit ourselves to what they could do centuries ago? We know so much more about genetics, food, management etc. However, many breeds fall short in this way, they're either bred only for production and lose the look, or bred for look and lose the production. Will get off that tangent though, I just think we should look to at least match, but SHOULD be able to exceed what was done centuries ago.
When you say size, do you mean weight? Height? Width? One thing that tends to go hand in hand with stilty legs is also knock kneed or "hockiness", which is something that's highly objectionable as well, so keep an eye on that from the front of the bird, selecting for nice wide bodies helps with this too.
Don't concern yourself too much with white tips on toe feathers, it's not a real point cut in the showroom and is something that is mentioned back in the earliest writings of the bird. It could be stress feathering too if it's a young bird, or juvenile plumage. Often my blacks have white tipping on foot feathering, or even wing feathers until they get around 4-5 months. Although now that I think about it the Blues don't, which strikes me as odd. Good plan to keep breedings small, I try and keep it to trios with the females being either full sisters or mother/daughter, just so that it's easier to know exactly what produces what.
Even after all these years I still don't know what to do with the breedings that produce superior birds than either parent. It's a nice thing to have happen, but until the offspring are proven producers of good birds themselves there's always the fear of regression. As poultry breeders know there is no such thing as maintaining quality, you're either getting better with each generation or getting worse. Generally though Langshans tend to be fairly easy to breed and reproduce fairly true to what you expect (to the point that I can tell which breeding trio a given cockerel or pullet came from due to it's physical traits without bothering to consult records).