A Heritage of Perfection: Standard-bred Large Fowl

[Sydney Acres]

I am located in Nebraska. They are coming from Jeremy Woeppel of XW poultry ranch. I originally called him because I knew he had some pretty good barred rocks. Very nice guy. While I was on the phone he mentioned that he was now raising New Hampshires. I did a little research and really like what I see with these New Hampshires. Part of it is I like a red bird. One of the practical things I like better is that, from what I read, these New Hampshires can feather fast while the barreds should really feather out slowly. I am a practical guy so I really wanted a variety that would blend show quality with the true dual purpose of a chicken. At this point my mind is made up on the New Hampshire.

Mind you, I have never raised any SOP New Hampshires. In fact, I have never had anything but hatchery stock. All my knowledge comes from other sources, but I really think these would be great to start with.

Jeremy Woeppel has a wonderful reputation, and is a very successful breeder of a few different breeds. The NH will produce a nice carcass quickly, so you'll get a true dual purpose breed if you start with good stock. You're off to a good start.

 

[nsscchd]

That's great to hear! I don't have much experience with SOP large fowl, but I have enough life experience to know that it's worth it to do your research and then follow through financially to achieve your goal. That's not to say price is no object but it seems to make better sense to purchase better stock up front than to spend the time and feed trying to upgrade something that may not end well.

 

[Sydney Acres]

When it comes to breeding stock, it is always worth it to buy from the best breeder that you can find. If that breeder is willing to be your mentor, then you've struck gold. As a general rule, don't confuse purchase price with quality. They are rarely parallel. Many of the most expensive birds are not the best quality, especially if you're looking for a fairly rare breed. Lots of "new" breeders are looking to recoup their investments, and find naive buyers to pay high prices for mediocre birds. I always recommend looking for the breeder without regard to price. Once you find the right breeder, then ask what type of stock s/he offers (young selected trios, proven pairs, chicks, eggs, etc) and what the cost is. At that point, you can decide how many you can afford. It's much better to start with just 2 trios of quality than 2 full flocks of junk.

The last time I bought birds was directly from a breeder with a great reputation, winner of almost every show that he entered, healthy and vigorous birds that were both friendly and productive. He was someone who had been around for decades. No website or e-mail, just a phone number passed around by people interested in the breed. I had a lot of questions, and he patiently answered each one. I told him I'd love to have some of his chicks, as I don't like shipping adults. He stammered a little when he told me that he was sorry, but that he had to sell his chicks at a higher cost than the hatcheries, and that they were $7 each, with a minimum of 20 for safe shipping, plus $15 for shipping. They were a bargain at that price, but the good breeders often can't sell chicks for what they're worth because people often aren't willing to pay for quality.

 

[ve]

This is my second time breading my Newhampshires. I started mixing German cock with American hens. The hens had good type ( I think?), but were ratter small. The cock was big, but had few feathers on the legs. Following pictures are F2 cockerels. Only #4 has few feathers on his legs. I had others, who had more, but culled them.Honestly, I do not think I have eye for Newhamphires yet.
Will appreciate any input which cockerel to keep and why. First is NH#1; heavier; longer back; taller:

​

On this picture #2 is behind
Next picture is of #2 who is on top of the pecking order, but is the smallest, little darker and has white spot on end of one of main wing feathers.

Next is #3 same weight as #1, but shorter back and legs




This is #4 with the feathers on the legs
Last picture is of their older brother. It is blurry, but I am posting it only to show that when one mixes lines, anything can pop up.

Sorry for the long post, but I just found picture of their father on same age.

 

[Wisher1000]

Hi, Ve!

I feel you on the "not having the eye, yet" as I feel the same way.  It helped me to take the photo from the SOP and make an outline of it, then fill it in with black to make a silhouette.  I have one for the cock and one for the hen.  I keep them around where I can see them all the time to help me fix that type into my brain. I don't know NHs or I would help with the critique, but I'm waiting to read what others have to say.

Good luck with them!

Campine Cock

Campine Hen

 

[ve]

Thank you Wisher,
That is great idea. The silhouette highlights better the shape. Will take time until I will be able to put real chicken in the silhouette, but hope one day..

 

[Yellow House Farm]

This is my second time breading my Newhampshires. I started mixing German cock with American hens. The hens had good type ( I think?), but were ratter small. The cock was big, but had few feathers on the legs. Following pictures are F2 cockerels. Only #4 has few feathers on his legs. I had others, who had more, but culled them.Honestly, I do not think I have eye for Newhamphires yet.
Will appreciate any input which cockerel to keep and why. First is NH#1; heavier; longer back; taller:

​

On this picture #2 is behind
Next picture is of #2 who is on top of the pecking order, but is the smallest, little darker and has white spot on end of one of main wing feathers.

Next is #3 same weight as #1, but shorter back and legs




This is #4 with the feathers on the legs
Last picture is of their older brother. It is blurry, but I am posting it only to show that when one mixes lines, anything can pop up.

Sorry for the long post, but I just found picture of their father on same age.

By the pics, which are always questionable, I'd eat number 4 very quickly. He appears distinctly hatchet breasted, and the stubs are highly heritable and an SOP disqualification. DQ's are established because of their potential to undermine an entire line; they're not just random bits.

By your report, number 2 has defects, which are not preferred, but you might be patient there.

Keep number 1 to watch and allow to fill in.

Number 3 appears to be the best all around bird.

Let the older brother molt in

Keep the original male.

Be sure to maintain multiple males.

 

[ve]

Mr Marquette,
Thank you for your reply.
After I did the post I enlarged few pictures of old show winners, I have the standard open on New Hampshire's pictures and now after you did pointed some things, light came, but is not bulb in my head yet, it is some candle light floating in the air around

Is any particular reason you said to keep their older brother? His comb is floppy, his color is exactly like Production Red. Only reason kept him so long is because all the time I was thinking that his shape is close to the pictures of standard. I wish I can lean on my opinion. I will keep him until he feathers again and hope my eyes get better.

 

[gjensen]

Kill every one of them except the last one. Hatch as many as you can from him. Once you have a couple that are better than him, kill him to. If he dies, and you are left with none. So be it. Secure another, and a better bird.

 

[ve]

Thank you GJENSEN,
Now I am kind of revising my opinions about shape. Seems #3 with the wider body and chest may be my choice. I will keep #1 for back up to see how he will develops. Thinking to wait until the older finishes his molt.
I have one 31/2 mo old cockerel who is already huge and has very big chest.
Hope until spring I will be better when judging New Hampshire shape. I wish APA send judge to my coop, who will tell me- cull this, keep this.
GJENSEN in your albums is drawing of New Hampshires and for some reason I like it better than what is in 2010 edition of the Standard.