Adding a second, or back-up rooster?

[Mrs. K]

Space is also a key issue on keeping pullets, cockerels, and multiple males. It depends on space, the more space you have, the more mixed you can have...maybe.

The less space you have the more ugly problems you have.

To try this, one needs a sharp knife, and the reality they won’t all be nice.

The above posters have a lot of experience, I have followed their posting for years with confidence. I just don’t want a new to the hobby to think I can keep everything in a 10 x 8 run.

 

[Morrigan]

They are not free-range (too many predators), but they have a big yard (60 x 80 feet, I think), that's sub-divided into different areas, and has multiple shade shelters, bushes and watering stations. The coop itself is not as big as I would like -- about 100 square feet, with two, distinct roosting areas -- but my weather is such that they are very rarely coop-bound.

 

[Morrigan]

Have ran into terrible issues

Did you mean "have NOT ran into terrible issues", as the rest of your post makes it sound like the fighting is only temporary and kind of funny to watch.

 

[Mrs. K]

I do not hand feed anything. My roosters need to stay about 4-5 feet away. I ignore them, they get out of my way. I don’t like one that moves behind me. One that crows too much when I am there, or one that puffs up, stretches up, flaps his wings at me I don’t like either.

However, unless you are living in the coop, the people bird interaction is a small amount of the day. An hour a day, is 1/24th of the day. This is where a multi-generational flock comes in key. They ARE there 24/7. These bigger birds teach younger birds chicken society, if there is enough space and enough hideouts.

When people make pets out of these outgoing boys. They see that being brave enough to come towards the human as being friendly, like a puppy. But it is not, chicken are either above or below another bird. The bird that comes forward, is above, the one that retreats or let’s them get on top of is the lower bird. People tend to think that rooster sitting on their lap likes them, they don’t, they are just above them.

So if a young bird approaches me I step quickly. Move toward them, scare them off a bit. Sometimes that is enough. My advice is watch the flock from afar, but don’t become part of the flock.

Mrs k

 

[lazy gardener]

 

[Folly's place]

I don't try to make 'pets' of my cockerels, and expect them to move out of my way always. I make a point of just happening to need to walk 'through' them, just to be sure they do respect my space. I'm the giant who brings food! I'm not competing for hens, I'm outside of the pecking order entirely.
Cockerels who give me the 'stink eye', in other words, they look like they are sizing me up, get encouraged to move away, not get closer. A cockerel who flares or 'dances' in my direction gets moved on immediately, and watched carefully. I don't wait to be attacked and injured to cull!!! I'll give this pushy cockerel a chance to improve, only if he was on my 'possible keeper' list. But he's moved to the 'possible dinner' list, and will likely end up in the freezer.
I also don't keep cockerels who injure pullets, and who are just nasty. Last year my keeper decided he could subdue anyone, and attacked the hens too. He's in the freezer now.
The road to a pleasant compatible flock means managing them effectively, and less stress makes for happier birds, who grow better, and lay more eggs. It's a win all the way around!
Mary

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

So much good information. Thank you so much to those who have taken the time to give such detailed accounts of their experiences.

@Ridgerunner -- I found your information on the roo to hen ratio really interesting. I had always taken it as gospel the you need at least 8 or 10 hens for every roo. Did some of the roosters not mate at all? Or were the hens able to handle their attentions.

My little cockerels are growing so fast! I have two favorites in terms of looks, and 1 close 3rd. The early crower is my least favorite in terms of looks, but his looks good enough that I would take a gentle and sound temperament over appearance if I knew enough to evaluate the temperament.

The remaining 1 (possibly 2) roosters are out as they were runty, slow developers and seemed to be susceptible to dirty bottoms. Not interested in those genetics.

One more question for those experienced cockerel raisers: Is there anything I can do in terms of interacting with them to improve the prospects that they will be non-aggressive, human-friendly roosters one day. I typically only pick up and handle my birds when I need to examine them or address a physical issue. I do enjoy hanging out in the yard and coop watching them. Occasionally I hand feed them. I neither want to needlessly terrify the youngsters, but I do wish them to remain respectful of me.

Keep doing as your doing with the boys. I raise a few roosters each year of various breeds none are ever aggressive. I don't handle mine and they mostly keep their natural wariness of me.

I keep multiple roosters. My birds are all free range with lots of areas to go and to get away from each other. Under confinement it becomes a bit trickier keeping multiple males, the set up needs to big enough and right enough.

 

[Ridgerunner]

@Ridgerunner -- I found your information on the roo to hen ratio really interesting. I had always taken it as gospel the you need at least 8 or 10 hens for every roo. Did some of the roosters not mate at all? Or were the hens able to handle their attentions.

I absolutely agree on the space comment by Mrs. K. The more room you have the fewer behavioral problems you will have.

I don't believe in magic numbers. From what I've seen there is nothing magic about them. A 10 to 1 ration does not stop roosters or cockerels from fighting, it does not prevent bare backs, if does not stop pullets from being harassed. It does not guarantee good fertility and more than going over the 10 to 1 assures poor fertility.

One regular on here free ranges a lot of chickens, allowing them to sort themselves out as he seriously tackles predator issues. He says when given a choice the typical flock is one rooster with 7 hens. Some are larger, some smaller, but the average they select is seven hens per rooster, not ten.

My normal main laying/breeding flock is 6 to 8 mature hens and one mature rooster. During the hatching/raising season I may have over 50 chickens of various ages in the flock at one time. One time several years back I had three roosters and 15 hens, totally free ranging. I did not have any problems at 5 to 1.

One huge difference is that we are mostly talking about roosters and hens, not cockerels and pullets. When they mature they really settle down. The roosters have gotten past that hormonal stage where they have no control. The hens have matured to the point that they will accept a mature rooster instead of running away or fighting. You can always have exceptions but flocks consisting of mature chickens are typically pretty calm.

But we are talking about cockerels and pullets, not mature chickens. They typically are not going to be calm. The cockerels hormones are raging, the pullets are not mature so don't want to accept the attention of the cockerels. The cockerels can be pretty obnoxious anyway. It is not going to be soothing or pleasant to watch. As long as no one is hurt, I consider it being chickens learning how to be chickens. I've eaten pullets and hens before due to behavioral issues. It's not just the cockerels or roosters.

 

[Morrigan]

More great information! I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.

Aside from when the chicks were younger than 2 weeks, I only hand feed the older hens. Maybe once every week or two, I hold something something leafy by the stem while they tear off pieces.

I will keep a much closer eye on how the cockerels are looking at me and treating my space. They often rush towards me when I appear, but usually I'm putting down a dish of fermented feed that they are keen to get to. I like the idea of walking thru them and seeing who scatters and who might appear reluctant to give way.

So much to learn.

 

[oldhenlikesdogs]

More great information! I can't tell you how much I appreciate it.

Aside from when the chicks were younger than 2 weeks, I only hand feed the older hens. Maybe once every week or two, I hold something something leafy by the stem while they tear off pieces.

I will keep a much closer eye on how the cockerels are looking at me and treating my space. They often rush towards me when I appear, but usually I'm putting down a dish of fermented feed that they are keen to get to. I like the idea of walking thru them and seeing who scatters and who might appear reluctant to give way.

So much to learn.

Chicks rush for goodies, that's normal. If you walk towards them they should move away. As they get older the males should still rush for treats but they should remain a respectful distance of 5-10 feet and should still run if you approach them.

Never allow those boys into your personal space after about 2-3 months. If any aren't moving off, catching them, or at least trying to, a time or two will often correct that.