Adding wire on top of t-post run

I have a 2nd run that was t-posts and 6ft fencing. Took over a year for predators to figure out they could just go over the top, then it became a problem (bobcat and owl). Already had a roll of chicken wire laying around, so I just used that - yes it's not 100% predator proof, but it's pretty damn strong IMO and if something manages to break through that then maybe they deserved the meal. Anyways, I used bamboo poles from our property. Everything secured very well with galvanized wire. Had to add support poles in the middle due to the expanse. Has been in place over a year and nothing's gotten past it. Aside from metal wire, I like using galvanized plumber's tape/hanger strap when mounting stuff like wood/lumber onto a t-post.
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Usually roofs have trusses that are built to span the needed length. Trusses are typically an inverted "V" with horizontal wooden boards tying each side together with angled boards that run from each side down to the horizontal board.

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These angled boards transfer the weight of the roof to the outside walls and through those side walls to the foundation.

Optionally, beams can be used that are either big enough to support the needed weigh or are engineered (top and bottom boards with an intermediate web holding the top and bottom together). the depth of the web determines how much weight each will hold. Again the beam transfers the weight to the outside walls and down to the foundation.

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Thank you for the explanation. That is way more construction than I can do for my run. I was also trying to figure out how to get something like this 20x30 dog kennel roof. But maybe it's just for shade and not security.
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I have a 2nd run that was t-posts and 6ft fencing. Took over a year for predators to figure out they could just go over the top, then it became a problem (bobcat and owl). Already had a roll of chicken wire laying around, so I just used that - yes it's not 100% predator proof, but it's pretty damn strong IMO and if something manages to break through that then maybe they deserved the meal. Anyways, I used bamboo poles from our property. Everything secured very well with galvanized wire. Had to add support poles in the middle due to the expanse. Has been in place over a year and nothing's gotten past it. Aside from metal wire, I like using galvanized plumber's tape/hanger strap when mounting stuff like wood/lumber onto a t-post.
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Thank you!! This is exactly what I was looking for. It looks like you also made your fence a foot taller with chicken wire, right? And sewed together with galvanized wire?

I feel the same way, if something really wants to rip through then maybe they deserve to eat what's inside. This is mostly gonna hold birds for sale or eating so it doesn't make sense to spend a fortune.
 
That works for warmer climates. If you're in a snowy area, it would most likely collapse.
Doesn't snow here... though I will prob add middle supports anyway because now I like the idea of adding center dividers to create separate "rooms".
 
Thank you!! This is exactly what I was looking for. It looks like you also made your fence a foot taller with chicken wire, right? And sewed together with galvanized wire?

I feel the same way, if something really wants to rip through then maybe they deserve to eat what's inside. This is mostly gonna hold birds for sale or eating so it doesn't make sense to spend a fortune.
Pretty much. Originally I had a fence extension with rows of mason string to be a deterrent for a chicken who kept jumping the fence when it was only 5ft; after the string she started to jump to the roof to get out (a 7ft jump to the lowest spot), lol. When I put the overhead protection I needed to make sure I could stand up straight, so it's ~6ft tall everywhere inside. Everything sewed together with galvanized wire. Every few months I take my leaf blower and knock off the leaves that accumulate on the mesh due to overhead trees.

Have bamboo on the property, so I used that. Other considered materials was ETC conduit pipe, maybe 1x2 or 2x2 lumber that's been painted or PT, didn't think PVC would be appropriate as it would sag too much; cattle panels and remesh wire were considered too but are too expensive these days. The center supports are t-posts with bamboo pole attached to them.
 
I have a 30'x20' fenced area that is made out of t-posts and 6 foot 2x4 welded wire. Also 18" hardware cloth around the bottom. I use it for broody hens + chicks, hold extra roosters, etc. It is not secure but usually no one is there for long. Would like to upgrade it to a more permanent/secure thing with wire roof.

I'm thinking about adding wedge-loc holders to the t-posts. The holders will hold 2x4s, and then I will staple chicken wire to it. Then add tarp or shade cloth depending on the season. https://kencove.com/fence/Wedge+Loc+2x42x6+Holder_detail_HW2H.php

Has anyone used wedge-loc holders for roof? Will that be predator-proof? We have lots of coyotes and raccoons.
I've never used those wedge-loc holders but I'd expect them to work fine.

Chicken wire will give you some protection against predators but some critters can tear it. A big boar raccoon or large dog can tear hardware cloth too but it is better than chicken wire. For what you are planning I'd use 2x4 welded wire. That will give you as much predator protection as the sides of your run which are 2x4 welded wire. It will need to be supported because it will sag.

To splice the strips of wire together you can use wire and weave it through as others suggested. You can cut short lengths of wire and twist them to connect the strips like twist ties. I don't like to use plastic zip ties because over time they can become brittle. I like to use J-Clips or hog rings to splice them. Using wire to connect them might take more work.

Not sure what staples you plan to use to attach the wire to the 2x4's. That might be the weakest connection where critters can rip it loose. Since the top is wooden 2x4's I'd be tempted to use furring strips. Maybe rip a 2x4 into 3/4" thick strips and use wood screws and fender washers to hold that wire on. If you clamp it tight and especially put the screws in holes in the wire it is not going anywhere. I use pilot holes in the furring strips so I don't split the furring strips. The furring strips cover the sharp edges of the wire so you don't rip your clothing or skin as much.
 

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