Advice on Coop and Run Doors, Windows, and Braces

[3KillerBs]

How would you recommended building the trusses? The plans I have show notching a piece out so it sits on the top plate. I'm not a fan of notching (even though I have never done it), but wasn't sure if you might have some better tips.

Roof framing photos from our big coop start here: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/large-open-air-coop-in-central-nc.1443812/post-24444353

I am added a predator barrier. I'm actually going to run the hardware cloth 2-3' under the gravel.

I'm not visualizing this 100% but if you're talking about wire underneath the coop where the chickens will walk it's a very bad idea.

Not only hard on their feet, but frustrating their natural instincts to dig (my hens can excavate down to the level of their backs in a single day).

Anti-dig wire ire is better installed either as a vertical barrier or an exterior apron.

The best options for coop floors are either a raised floor that is always kept bone-dry and cleaned regularly (I favor Deep Bedding in this situation: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/using-deep-bedding-in-a-small-coop.76343/) or a dirt floor managed with a Deep Litter system (moist and actively composting).

 

[Broxi]

Mine is far from perfect, but here's what I did. The ventilation is better than it looks since the space above the hen house wall does not go all the way into the rafters, so it's open completely. My property is also completely shaded by trees as you can see, so the heat is dramatically reduced and feels at least 10 degrees cooler back there compared to what the weather says it is.

As you can see I put in a human walk door on the side and a double door on the gable end to enable my lawn tractor with a cart to be pulled inside if needed. The human door to the hen house is on the back side of the hen house under the overhang. I attached it to the existing shed that was built with the overhang already there, and it works great. The guy that I hired to build it unfortunately didn't understand what I wanted for roost bars, so I'm going to re-work them for better cleaning by using a socket type system attached to the walls like closet poles made out of 2x4s. The entire thing is meshed with 1/2" hardware cloth including a buried predator apron. I really like the utility room side for storage of my chicken and bee supplies, but I could peg the connecting walk door open if I needed to expand my hen house. It is Poodle approved!

The way the land slopes made the roof at the end of the run very tall at 14'6" to keep the roof line level from the existing shed, but it sure makes the run feel very open.

The first picture is what I showed the builder to work from and modified to what I wanted. My roof is also 5V galvanized metal instead of shingles.

 

[curlyp]

Trusses have to be engineered and I don't do that. I build with rafters and just send the tails out as far as needed to get the overhang I'm after.

Oh, I thought was I making trusses...maybe their rafters then! Do you have any advice on how I can build my rafters with a 2' overhang especially with the front porch?

I hate to say it but this is a recipe for disaster.

Why is putting a 4x8 sheets of wood onto of the gravel a bad idea? The sheets is to keep them from walking on it, and it will be filled with several inches of bedding to walk around.

I'm not visualizing this 100% but if you're talking about wire underneath the coop where the chickens will walk it's a very bad idea.

Not only hard on their feet, but frustrating their natural instincts to dig (my hens can excavate down to the level of their backs in a single day).

Anti-dig wire ire is better installed either as a vertical barrier or an exterior apron.

I might not have explained it well. No, I'm not putting wire underneath where they are walking. The wire that goes around the run, is going to be extended straight into the ground (vertical) 2-3'. This way, if a critter digs down to try and go under it will he a wall of wire.

The best options for coop floors are either a raised floor that is always kept bone-dry and cleaned regularly (I favor Deep Bedding in this situation: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/using-deep-bedding-in-a-small-coop.76343/) or a dirt floor managed with a Deep Litter system (moist and actively composting).

I have a raised foundation with 6" of gravel packed in. Putting the floor ontop of the gravel should still keep it dry, correct? The sheets of wood will keep them from walked on gravel and I will have 8-10" of bedding for them to walk on.

Mine is far from perfect, but here's what I did. The ventilation is better than it looks since the space above the hen house wall does not go all the way into the rafters, so it's open completely. My property is also completely shaded by trees as you can see, so the heat is dramatically reduced and feels at least 10 degrees cooler back there compared to what the weather says it is.

Your coop and run looks really nice!

As you can see I put in a human walk door on the side and a double door on the gable end to enable my lawn tractor with a cart to be pulled inside if needed.

Interesting. I was going to use the human door as the clean out door as well, but maybe I will put a double door on the gable end to make it easier!

Do you happen to have drawings of how the rafters were made?

 

[3KillerBs]

Why is putting a 4x8 sheets of wood onto of the gravel a bad idea? The sheets is to keep them from walking on it, and it will be filled with several inches of bedding to walk around.

It's pretty much inevitable that wood in ground contact -- and in this context gravel constitutes ground -- is going to get wet and rot. Putting holes into the wood will trap poop and be horribly insanitary.

I have a raised foundation with 6" of gravel packed in. Putting the floor ontop of the gravel should still keep it dry, correct? The sheets of wood will keep them from walked on gravel and I will have 8-10" of bedding for them to walk on.

If you don't want a dirt floor then the best option is a normal, wooden floor.

The gravel is an unnecessary expense that is more likely to cause problems than solve them because it will wick moisture from the ground to the wood and, over time, accumulate poop dust that will stink any time it gets wet.

If you need to manage mud then the better option is to ensure that the site has good drainage by the use of grading, diversion ditches, French drain, etc. and to use plenty of organic litter. Coarse wood chips, the sort you get from a tree-trimming service, are generally considered the gold standard for the control of mud and odor.

In a Deep Litter system the organic material actively composts with the manure to neutralize it. It benefits from direct ground contact because it needs a bit of moisture and because the dirt seeds it with composting organisms.

 

[curlyp]

It's pretty much inevitable that wood in ground contact -- and in this context gravel constitutes ground -- is going to get wet and rot. Putting holes into the wood will trap poop and be horribly insanitary.

Okay, then I will put in a regular floor. I can't undo what is done.

If you don't want a dirt floor then the best option is a normal, wooden floor.

The gravel is an unnecessary expense that is more likely to cause problems than solve them because it will wick moisture from the ground to the wood and, over time, accumulate poop dust that will stink any time it gets wet.

If you need to manage mud then the better option is to ensure that the site has good drainage by the use of grading, diversion ditches, French drain, etc. and to use plenty of organic litter. Coarse wood chips, the sort you get from a tree-trimming service, are generally considered the gold standard for the control of mud and odor.

In a Deep Litter system the organic material actively composts with the manure to neutralize it. It benefits from direct ground contact because it needs a bit of moisture and because the dirt seeds it with composting organisms.

Normal floor it is. The gravel gives the coop and the run a study foundation to sit on. Otherwise, it would be so muddy and could potentionally shift with the soft ground.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Hey all, I'm helping with the rafter design. There will be plenty of 24/7/356 weather sheltered free ventilation. Promise!

 

[curlyp]

Thank you so much @U_Stormcrow I really do appreciate it!

 

[U_Stormcrow]

Thank you so much @U_Stormcrow I really do appreciate it!

I enjoy this. and maybe it benefits someone else.

also, I'm rather sore from yesterday. Though I'm nearing a stopping point, so I may post what I've got and wait for feedback before building a materials list and calling out the dimensions.

 

[U_Stormcrow]

OK, here's where I am at in my rough sketch of potential roof design. Input appreciated (yes, its framed in 2x6s. That's overkill for these spans. 2x4s would be perfectly adequate, even in OH. But that doesn't really change anything.

End view (run side)

Front View:

Overhead (seriously considering extending the roof edge 1' off the run side, purely for reasons of symmetry. Overhangs are 1' at back, right, run front, 3' at coop front):

Iso:

I've saved this in my Sketchup directory to make changes later. There is significant undereave ventilation front and back (obviously more significant in the front), and leaving the side between coop and run open, since it would be under roof, should more than adequately meet ventilation needs w/o need for a possibly snow-impeded ridge vent. Right side gable can be left solid, or a decorative round/octagonal/whatever vent could be located there.
Pitch is 5/12 per request. I understand that on metal roofing, pitches over 6/12 are not recommended for snow, so this is within engineering recommends, and will be very good for seasonal rains. Yes, I'm "cheating" with some plywood corners to stiffen the ridge poles. Contemplating additional bracing on the left side run - particularly if the roof overhang is extended another 1'.

Comments please!

 

[U_Stormcrow]

OK, design revised to 2x4 rafters, added the threatened overhang off the run end, fixed the length of the run itself. This is where we are now at.

and I REALLY AM SOLICITING ASSISTANCE/COMMENT FROM THE REST OF BYC!
Please Comment if you see anything that looks odd.