Advice on Coop and Run Doors, Windows, and Braces

[curlyp]

Hello BYC Community!

First off, I am new here and glad this community is here for advice. I recently moved out to the country and raised my first baby chicks! I got 12 in January and it's about time to move them from the brooder to the coop.

I am building my first ever coop and run. I am looking for some advice on where to place the door, windows, and support cross bars for the coop walls.

Here are some pictures of the build and my initial thoughts.. The original plans are from construction 101 and I don't like the look of the support braces.

Any advice would be appreciated!

Thank you,

CP

 

[DobieLover]

You don't need all those cross braces you drew in red in one of the images. You have 24" on center load bearing walls and that's fine to just support a roof.

Was the human entry door supposed to be on the gable end wall of the coop opposite the run?

 

[3KillerBs]

Welcome to BYC. Where, in general, are you? Climate matters, especially when it comes to housing.

I'm concerned that that coop has minimal ventilation and it's badly placed as windows at the approximate level of the roosts. You're going to want to modify it so that you have top-level ventilation to provide good air flow above the birds' heads so it's free of drafts.

If you click on the "My Coop" link in Dobie's profile you'll see a really excellent coop with terrific ventilation even in cold winters.

Are you subject to high winds that you're concerned about diagonal bracing to prevent racking?

I'm not as well versed in things structural as @U_Stormcrow, but I think that once it's all tied together with the roof it *ought* to be stable even without the extra bracing.

Speaking of the roof, you're going to want MUCH larger overhangs than those plans provide to shade the walls and to keep rain out of the run.

Mine are a bit excessive, but I'm in a blistering hot climate so we wanted extra shade.

 

[curlyp]

You don't need all those cross braces you drew in red in one of the images. You have 24" on center load bearing walls and that's fine to just support a roof.

Was the human entry door supposed to be on the gable end wall of the coop opposite the run?

Thank you for the clarification.

No, according to the original plans, the human door was not on the gable end. The farmer next to me helped me modify the plans I found online.

 

[curlyp]

Welcome to BYC. Where, in general, are you? Climate matters, especially when it comes to housing.

I'm concerned that that coop has minimal ventilation and it's badly placed as windows at the approximate level of the roosts. You're going to want to modify it so that you have top-level ventilation to provide good air flow above the birds' heads so it's free of drafts.

If you click on the "My Coop" link in Dobie's profile you'll see a really excellent coop with terrific ventilation even in cold winters.

Are you subject to high winds that you're concerned about diagonal bracing to prevent racking?

I'm not as well versed in things structural as @U_Stormcrow, but I think that once it's all tied together with the roof it *ought* to be stable even without the extra bracing.

Speaking of the roof, you're going to want MUCH larger overhangs than those plans provide to shade the walls and to keep rain out of the run.

Mine are a bit excessive, but I'm in a blistering hot climate so we wanted extra shade.

@3KillerBs,thank you for the warm welcome and in-depth advice.

I’m in the Midwest, Ohio / WV area.

We are in a windy area. The windows can pick up at times, but I haven’t lived here long enough to know how “bad” they can be.

As I was telling @DobieLover , the farmer next to me helped modify the plans. We took ideas from the original blueprints and made modifications (structurally better).

1. The original plans were an 8x8 Coop with a 10x8 run nailed to the side of the coop. We made modifications to structurally tie in the foundation and the roof of the run to the coop. They are both on the same plain from top to bottom. I also, added a 4’ porch to the coop.

2. The original plans had zero overhang for the coop and run. Our modifications allow for a 4” overhang all the way around, which will allow me to add gutters for the rain water collection system I am building.

3. I will have a metal roof on both the coop and run. The coop will have a ridge cap to allow ventilation. Also, I will have some vents built in on the gable sides. They will be high enough to prevent drafting, but allow food good ventilation and to prevent mold from growing. The run, will not have the ridge gap since it will be enclosed with chicken wire.
Here are some pictures of the bracing I added this afternoon. Also, I’ve added a picture of my roof/porch plan.

 

[DobieLover]

Thank you for the clarification.

No, according to the original plans, the human door was not on the gable end. The farmer next to me helped me modify the plans I found online.

What you show is the human door on the load bearing wall with no header. You need a header over the door to support the roof.

a metal roof on both the coop and run

Where are you located in general? Metal roofs get hot in direct sun and will heat up the interior of the coop. I don't see any shade trees near your structure.

some vents built in on the gable sides

SOME is a scary word when it comes to chicken coop ventilation. LOTS is the word that I like to see.

I ventilate through the soffits and out ridge vent and gable vents. There are also two windows away from the roost area that are kept cracked open during winter. Those three windows at roost height are opened wide for the warmer weather.

Our modifications allow for a 4” overhang all the way around

That's better than nothing but I recommend at least a foot. I did 2 feet on mine and LOVE it. I've had the windows open during some very gusty rain storms and not a drop of water has ever gotten in my coop.

enclosed with chicken wire.

You mean 1/2" hardware cloth, right? Chicken wire won't keep anything out.

I would also add a predator apron to your structure. The most effective way to protect your particular build would be to attach to the run/coop base framing, extend it over your gravel to the base framing, down the base framing and out another 18-24" then pin it down with HD landscape pins and let the grass grow through it.

The gravel inside the run is going to be dug through by the flock. You will need an organic run litter and they are going to mix that all up together. It won't make the best medium for dust bathing in and you'll have gravel mixed up with the organic material forever.

 

[saysfaa]

I like the porch.

How much do you like the two different slopes of the roof on the porch side? I haven't priced it but I think it might be both easier to build and less expensive to make a larger main roof that covers both the coop and the porch. It would give you a beautifully tall gap between the top of the walls and the underside of the roof for ventilation too.

I originally thought at least 12" overhangs for mine and still think that would be better. The sales person for the builder didn't know exactly what the slope would be and I gave up trying to get him to find out. Anyway, I told him the 12" was not a set number - to make the roof even sheets or half sheets of plywood. It came out as 9" which works okay and does look like a typical shed even though sheds often don't have overhangs at all.

The wider overhang keeps the weather out of the open eaves and protects the sides of the building - important for plywood and even more so if you use T-11 siding (smartboard or similar). It also makes it MUCH easier to put hardware cloth across the eaves to keep racoons, weasles, and such out of the coop.

You might consider placing both the pop door and the people door higher so the bedding doesn't fall out. I like deep bedding to keep smells down, maintenance down, and I think it keeps the coop drier so my doors are about 10-12" above the coop floor.

I second the taking the gravel out for the same reasons and because it is usually pretty hard on chicken feet. And because I tried once or twice to take the gravel out after it had organic matter mixed with it - it is much easier to take it out before that happens. I'm sorry. I do know how discouraging it is to do it.

 

[3KillerBs]

Our modifications allow for a 4” overhang all the way around, which will allow me to add gutters for the rain water collection system I am building.

You don't need my 4-foot overhangs, but better to go a good deal wider -- more like 18-24" if at all possible. This allows you to provide generous ventilation up under the overhangs on all 4 sides and shades the walls during the hottest part of the day.

It also gives you a dry place to stand while collecting eggs or even just opening the door.

Also, I will have some vents built in on the gable sides.

I agree with Dobie. "Some" is a frightening word because it suggests that you're thinking in square inches when you need to be thinking in square feet.

Chickens wear down parkas all year round. They don't have to be kept warm -- if they're dry and out of the wind they easily tolerate temperatures down to 0F or below. But they often start to suffer when it approaches 90F.

Since you're in a moderate climate with both summer heat and winter cold I'm going to link you an article that covers both sides: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/aarts-extreme-weather-spiel.75893/

How much do you like the two different slopes of the roof on the porch side? I haven't priced it but I think it might be both easier to build and less expensive to make a larger main roof that covers both the coop and the porch. It would give you a beautifully tall gap between the top of the walls and the underside of the roof for ventilation too.

This is a splendid idea.

The angled roof slope is attractive, but a single slope would be easier to build and allow for generous, well-sheltered venting.

 

[curlyp]

What you show is the human door on the load bearing wall with no header. You need a header over the door to support the roof.

Yes, that is correct. I am still building and haven't added the headers to the door or windows yet. I still don't know where the windows are going, so I haven't framed that out.

To be more accurate, the door and window frames will both have headers, top cripples and king studs. The window will have the extra sill and bottom cripples. I want to make sure the integrity of the structure is good!

Where are you located in general? Metal roofs get hot in direct sun and will heat up the interior of the coop. I don't see any shade trees near your structure.

Ohio/WV area. There are some huge pine trees behind it (see picture).

SOME is a scary word when it comes to chicken coop ventilation. LOTS is the word that I like to see.

I ventilate through the soffits and out ridge vent and gable vents. There are also two windows away from the roost area that are kept cracked open during winter. Those three windows at roost height are opened wide for the warmer weather.

Okay, I will rethink this then and seek some advice once the trusses are built.

That's better than nothing but I recommend at least a foot. I did 2 feet on mine and LOVE it. I've had the windows open during some very gusty rain storms and not a drop of water has ever gotten in my coop.

Hmmm, never thought out that. I didn't think I would want to go too far out, but what you are saying makes sense.

How would you recommended building the trusses? The plans I have show notching a piece out so it sits on the top plate. I'm not a fan of notching (even though I have never done it), but wasn't sure if you might have some better tips.

The Coop is a 8x8' with a 4' porch. So one side, is technically 12'.

The run was modified from a 10x8 to a 20x8'. So the who whole structure (coop and run) is a 28x8'.

You mean 1/2" hardware cloth, right? Chicken wire won't keep anything out.

Yes, my apologies!

I would also add a predator apron to your structure. The most effective way to protect your particular build would be to attach to the run/coop base framing, extend it over your gravel to the base framing, down the base framing and out another 18-24" then pin it down with HD landscape pins and let the grass grow through it.

The gravel inside the run is going to be dug through by the flock. You will need an organic run litter and they are going to mix that all up together. It won't make the best medium for dust bathing in and you'll have gravel mixed up with the organic material forever.

I am added a predator barrier. I'm actually going to run the hardware cloth 2-3' under the gravel. This way, any raccoons, moles, etc, would run into it an be discouraged.

So, the pictures don't actually tell the whole story! We have many low spots, so the farmer recommended I build a foundation for the coop and the run to sit on. This will keep the coop and run from becoming a muddy mess (like his!). I rented a sod cutter, and cut out a rectangle bigger than what I needed. We put 4x6 down to make it level all the way around. I lined the inside with geo-textile to make it sturdy, but allow filtration and filled it with #57's to give it a nice firm base (yes it was compacted as well).

I am still thinking out what I am putting on the rocks, but my thoughts were to buy some think 4x8 sheets and drill a TON of tiny holes to let any water filter down to the rocks. On top of the sheets, would be 8-10' of bedding for the chickens. I will also have a tire filled with sand so they can dust bath.

In all actuality, the gravel is just the base for the foundation an the chicks will never walk on it. The sheets, allows for quick clean up of bedding!

I like the porch.

Thank you!

How much do you like the two different slopes of the roof on the porch side? I haven't priced it but I think it might be both easier to build and less expensive to make a larger main roof that covers both the coop and the porch. It would give you a beautifully tall gap between the top of the walls and the underside of the roof for ventilation too

I'm fine with it. Actually all the wood (except for the 4x6 and coop floor) was 70-80% off! The cost for all the wood, was relatively cheap. I think i'm still under $1,000 for wood! All the would was purchased a couple months ago and has been sitting in my pole barn!

Any thoughts on how to build the roof? Do you have some diagrams I could look at? I'm not an engineer or builder, so this is all new to me! haha

You might consider placing both the pop door and the people door higher so the bedding doesn't fall out. I like deep bedding to keep smells down, maintenance down, and I think it keeps the coop drier so my doors are about 10-12" above the coop floor.

Good point. I still have time to make the changes since I don't have the door framed out yet.

I second the taking the gravel out for the same reasons and because it is usually pretty hard on chicken feet. And because I tried once or twice to take the gravel out after it had organic matter mixed with it - it is much easier to take it out before that happens. I'm sorry. I do know how discouraging it is to do it.

Here is what I mentioned to @DobieLover above.

"So, the pictures don't actually tell the whole story! We have many low spots, so the farmer recommended I build a foundation for the coop and the run to sit on. This will keep the coop and run from becoming a muddy mess (like his!). I rented a sod cutter, and cut out a rectangle bigger than what I needed. We put 4x6 down to make it level all the way around. I lined the inside with geo-textile to make it sturdy, but allow filtration and filled it with #57's to give it a nice firm base (yes it was compacted as well).

I am still thinking out what I am putting on the rocks, but my thoughts were to buy some think 4x8 sheets and drill a TON of tiny holes to let any water filter down to the rocks. On top of the sheets, would be 8-10' of bedding for the chickens. I will also have a tire filled with sand so they can dust bath.

In all actuality, the gravel is just the base for the foundation an the chicks will never walk on it. The sheets, allows for quick clean up of bedding!"

 

[DobieLover]

How would you recommended building the trusses?

Trusses have to be engineered and I don't do that. I build with rafters and just send the tails out as far as needed to get the overhang I'm after.

I am still thinking out what I am putting on the rocks, but my thoughts were to buy some think 4x8 sheets and drill a TON of tiny holes to let any water filter down to the rocks. On top of the sheets, would be 8-10' of bedding for the chickens. I will also have a tire filled with sand so they can dust bath.

I hate to say it but this is a recipe for disaster.