I made my own automatic chicken door using the add-a-motor 20 (it's plugged into AC but it will run on DC)) and a cheap timer. I'm on my second motor as the first one never worked right. This second motor is working great so far. I believe the add-a-motor is overpriced, but it's simple and does the job. I have the door propped open in this photo because I was just completing the installation and getting ready to set the height I wanted my pop door to open.
I've heard various issues with batteries in their Ador1 auto-doors. I can well believe them. Off the shelf 6V lantern batteries are notoriously poor quality, often being useless or nearly so directly after purchase. There are good ones and there are bad ones, I strongly suggest an Energizer if you use one of these. Despite their huge advertising campaign they are actually a high quality battery. Instead of a lantern battery which contains D cells and a styrofoam space-filler, I opted for using some quality Energizer EN95 D cells in a 4-cell lantern battery adapter as shown below. These batters are rated at nearly 30 amp hours. The Ador1 draws about 1 amp hour per year for normal usage, 2 amp hours if the "last call" feature is used which doubles the open/close cycles. Theoretically this battery would last over 20 years but any battery will leak energy over time. I would replace them long before that. Actually, I test the battery occasionally as I am curious. The battery configuration shown below has been in use for 6 months and is still outputting the 6.4V that it did when first installed. It should drop down to roughly 6V for the bulk of its lifetime but is still showing a fresh charge.
The other advantage to using this configuration is that it makes the alligator clip connection much easier. There is more space for the clips and wires. I used a lantern battery in the past and it was a nuisance to clip the battery on securely in the tight enclosure. With this setup it's a breeze and the wires stay out of the way.
The battery adapter is one like this: Lantern Battery Adapter
There are extender fins on the bottom of that adapter that are just meant to occupy space, I snipped those off.
The Energizer EN95's are widely available.
Great tip. If my Duracell lamp battery doesn't last a full year I'll try the D cells. Here is my coop/run now. (I still need to figure out how to add a gate without digging fence posts).
Great tip. If my Duracell lamp battery doesn't last a full year I'll try the D cells. Here is my coop/run now. (I still need to figure out how to add a gate without digging fence posts).
Duracell is a reasonable battery and might be my first choice after Energizer. Keep in mind if you open up that Duracell lantern battery you will find 4 retail-model D-cell batteries sitting on top of a cardboard space filler. I know because I did it. A battery like this should last at least 5 years. In years past lantern batteries contained F-cells which were 25% longer than D-cells, with 25% more capacity. Nowadays we just get 25% air. Energizer does make a 6V lantern battery with F-cells but it is hard to find.
With two batteries for $16 I figured you can't go wrong...and the plan will be to swap them out and recharge every 3 months (I'm sure I could get longer, just piece of mind to do it sooner)
We just got ours installed a couple weeks ago on the new coop...*loving it*! I went with a rechargeable 6v from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QGVW3K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00 With two batteries for $16 I figured you can't go wrong...and the plan will be to swap them out and recharge every 3 months (I'm sure I could get longer, just piece of mind to do it sooner)
I'll be real curious how well rechargeable batteries do for you. I was big into rechargeable AA's a few years ago and piloted a program at work to use them instead of regular batteries, and what I found was that they lasted not long enough between charges (like a regular AA would last 3 months, these would last three weeks). After that I pretty much gave up on rechargeable batteries. I suspect your first few charges might last three months if your lucky, but then you'll wind up changing them monthly. I'd be happy to hear of better results, because the only rechargeable batteries I trust anymore as the kind in my vehicle.
I'll be real curious how well rechargeable batteries do for you. I was big into rechargeable AA's a few years ago and piloted a program at work to use them instead of regular batteries, and what I found was that they lasted not long enough between charges (like a regular AA would last 3 months, these would last three weeks). After that I pretty much gave up on rechargeable batteries. I suspect your first few charges might last three months if your lucky, but then you'll wind up changing them monthly. I'd be happy to hear of better results, because the only rechargeable batteries I trust anymore as the kind in my vehicle.
You were probably working with NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) batteries, which until recently were not very good at holding a charge. Remember you had to charge them even before you used them. Now we have the "precharged" or "low self discharge" batteries that are much, much better. The Sanyo Enloop is a popular example. They can be used right out of the package and only lose 5-10% of their charge per year. Not as good as alkalines, but good enough for most applications.
The battery Cacique500 is using is a sealed lead acid (SLA) battery that is very much like the battery in your vehicle. Depending on quality, these should be rechargeable multiple times and hold a charge without a problem. Eventually, like a car battery, or anything else, they do wear out and fail to hold a charge.
You are right to avoid typical rechargeable NiMH batteries, they would not hold a charge long enough for an application like this. But I would have no problem using these NiMH batteries,
except that they cost quite a bit: Rechargeable D cells.
But I would still rather go with alkalines for the Ador1 since this door uses practically no power at all except when moving the door, I prefer a battery that I can depend on to function for years at a time.
Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) batteries are also an interesting choice. Just for grins I powered my Ador1 with a pair of 18650 3.7V Li-Ions for a while as shown below. I removed them for two reasons. First, they are capable of delivering a huge amount of current when needed. If they got short circuited somehow, they would overheat and burst open and likely catch fire. Not a likely scenario and the Ador1's sealed metal battery compartment would contain the fire. But I worry nonetheless. Also, they don't make much sense for such a low-drain application as this.
You were probably working with NiMH (Nickel Metal Hydride) batteries, which until recently were not very good at holding a charge. Remember you had to charge them even before you used them. Now we have the "precharged" or "low self discharge" batteries that are much, much better. The Sanyo Enloop is a popular example. They can be used right out of the package and only lose 5-10% of their charge per year. Not as good as alkalines, but good enough for most applications. The battery Cacique500 is using is a sealed lead acid (SLA) battery that is very much like the battery in your vehicle. Depending on quality, these should be rechargeable multiple times and hold a charge without a problem. Eventually, like a car battery, or anything else, they do wear out and fail to hold a charge. You are right to avoid typical rechargeable NiMH batteries, they would not hold a charge long enough for an application like this. But I would have no problem using these NiMH batteries, except that they cost quite a bit: Rechargeable D cells. But I would still rather go with alkalines for the Ador1 since this door uses practically no power at all except when moving the door, I prefer a battery that I can depend on to function for years at a time. Lithium Ion (Li-Ion) batteries are also an interesting choice. Just for grins I powered my Ador1 with a pair of 18650 3.7V Li-Ions for a while as shown below. I removed them for two reasons. First, they are capable of delivering a huge amount of current when needed. If they got short circuited somehow, they would overheat and burst open and likely catch fire. Not a likely scenario and the Ador1's sealed metal battery compartment would contain the fire. But I worry nonetheless. Also, they don't make much sense for such a low-drain application as this.
That's great info. I read somewhere that the 2015 and newer models of the ADOR1 will take up to 12v, which I believe means I could literally use a car battery if I wanted to (although it obviously wouldn't fit inside the unit).
AC but it will run on DC)) and a cheap timer. I'm on my second motor as the first one never worked right. This second motor is working great so far. I believe the add-a-motor is overpriced, but it's simple and does the job. I have the door propped open in this photo because I was just completing the installation and getting ready to set the height I wanted my pop door to open.
