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After Deworming what to use to clear ground/bad feces from coop run?

I'm taking a fecal sample to a vet today, far away from my home. There is only 1 vet that will see hens, far away from my home anywhere in this area of Florida. It's taken 1 month of research to even FIND this vet. I need your help with ground sanitation. Thank you for the tip on keeping grass low! I'm on that right now. Can I mass white vinegar the ground of the coop run? What's the best next step to stop re-infection?
The far away vet just called. They cannot see hens and won't even take a fecal sample without seeing the hen. I'm currently treating with safe-guard Fenbendazole. I'm on my own now. What are your expert thoughts?
 
You may need to look for a livestock veterinarian if you haven't already. I test mine twice a year and treat as needed, and the one livestock vet I could find is in another state. They didn't have any worms this winter - I guess the super cold weather killed the eggs for a while.

You're not going to eradicate the worms in the environment. Kinda like dogs - you regularly deworm them because they're outside all the time, and are always picking something up. Idea is to keep the worm load low enough it doesn't negatively impact the birds.
 
You can use the Safeguard, I use it all the time as well as Valbazen. Safeguard dose is .23ml per pound of bird weight, orally, 5 days in a row. That will take care of everything except tape worm. Tape worm is much less common. You can use an inexpensive digital kitchen scale to get a weight. The most common is roundworm, and reinfection is very common. If you KNOW you are only dealing with roundworm you can do the above dose once and then again in 10 days, if you don't know for sure what worm you are dealing with, then the 5 days in a row will cover everything. If you ever need to worm for tapeworm then you'd use praziquantel which you can get in Equimax or Zimectrin Gold horse paste.
Florida has a just about perfect climate and soil conditions for parasites, it just comes with living here. Just observe your birds, watch for symptoms, worm as needed. I worm my birds every 3 months, it took awhile to work that out, if someone gets sick or is having abnormal droppings, I worm. It's pretty safe, and better than losing birds to illness caused by the parasites. I've never hurt one by worming. Make sure that you do not underdose your birds, always round fractions UP to the most measureable amount (you will not hurt them), and if you find yourself worming regularly, then try to rotate wormers. You don't have to switch every time, no point in wasting medications, but I will switch every 3 or 4 wormings.
Do not make yourself nuts trying to get rid of it in the soil. It's impossible. And even if you did, one bird flying over can poop and leave some there, and you'd have to start all over, or someone could carry it in on shoes. You would have to remove at least the top 6 inches of your soil and replace it with "sterile" soil. And even then, no guarantees. Another way to manage parasites is to rotate the ground they are on, many ranchers rotate pastures for that reason (among others). If you have lots of space, that can help. Many people simply don't have the room or resources to do that.
 
Still haven't read WHY you treated the hen for worms but I was born in IRB. You should have plenty of access to Sand. If you treat your area with alot of sand it won't kill or prevent worms but it will indeed help as worm's don't like the dry....
 
Florida is very sandy, everywhere. The soil is very sandy, but it's also very humid, warm, and often wet, and it never freezes. Even in North Florida where I am, it may get below freezing, but it's never long enough to kill stuff off. Mold, fungus, all sorts of lovely things thrive here that wouldn't in other places. Think tropical. Parasites are really, really common here. Those of us who have animals would absolutely do whatever we could to get rid of them, but it's just something we have to deal with.
 

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