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- #11
busymomof4
Chirping
- Mar 19, 2019
- 42
- 82
- 66
Yes he is coming back after being kicked with even more anger.
He broke my skin through my clothes, not a scratch either
Aggressive rooster
- Thread starter busymomof4
- Start date
He broke my skin through my clothes, not a scratch either
I'm sorry, but @chicksandchores on what planet do you think it's OK to kick and throw things at small animals? Or any animal. Have you considered that your unfortunate cockerel was trying to protect his flock.
chicksandchores
Songster
Oh I don’t think it’s okay. But when you’re out giving scratch to a flock you raised from babies, and all you do is walk past the rooster and toss a handful out, like you have for the past year they’ve been with you, and he spurs you? Yeah, I’m not going to curb that instinct. He wasn’t protecting jack squat; he’s the beta rooster anyhow so it not like I could possibly be a threat if the alpha is telling his ladies I’m tossing treats and not paying me any mind.
He wanted to attack, yes, but the kicking never stops them, it is giving them what they want. (They think you are up for a fight.) I hand raise my roosters as well, but then they reach teenage and come up to me, before they hop on me, I pick them up and carry them about under my arm, then they know if they come to me they will get picked up, so from then on they will only come to me if they want to be picked up. The worst is when little boys and roosters get together, boys want to kick, and roosters want to jump on a boy especially because they are smaller. It is a bad combination the kicking is bad training for a rooster. I would say keep the son away at least till the rooster is better trained. Or you may have to cull, and if you want a rooster chose one from a tamer breed.
Another thing I never do with a rooster is show fear, other than picking a rooster up and carrying them about I don't react scared, or even react.
chicksandchores
Songster
I don’t kick him to train him; the kicking started as a knee jerk reaction one day after a particularly rough sneak attack on his end. I don’t advocate for the abuse of animals, I don’t randomly go out to my flock and kick them, I don’t abuse them. Despite his terrible behavior, when I have fresh treats for them I know he’s going to get pushed off of them because he’s at the bottom of the pecking order so I hand feed him things like fruits and veggies to make sure he gets some. If they have to be in the coop for a day I make sure to put him feed where he stays away from the rest of the flock because the alpha won’t let him eat when they’re in the coop together. I don’t mistreat my birds; I simply react to a given situation. This is my first flock; I have since learned ways to aid in keeping a rooster from ever becoming aggressive in the first place and will apply that to the younger generation of birds I’m raising now. I don’t show fear, I simply walk like I always have. I’m a little better at hearing his “thumpthumpthump” battle run and I’ve gotten better at recognizing the looks he gives me, but I shouldn’t have to fight one of my own animals or fear bodily harm when I go out to feed my flock.
- Thread starter
- #17
busymomof4
Chirping
- Mar 19, 2019
- 42
- 82
- 66
That is exactly what happened to me yesterday, throwing treats and he went after me. I had to kick him otherwise i would have been on the ground
But you already said you started kicking and throwing things at him when he was 6 months old. Although you may feel justified by your behavior, are actions abusive to the animal. Lucky you don't live in Massachusetts because animal abuse is a felony. If you feel threatened by any of your animals, then re-home them don't hurt them.
I am not saying you are abusing anything, like the other lady said, if you hear the charge coming, sometimes you can face them, (they like to jump from behind) then they pretend the were eating by you, then you go after them, not to kick but to pick up, or just get in his space, he will get the message, just don't turn your back. But hopefully your kicking days are done, just think of other ways of dealing. Also you think you are not training by kicking but you are. sometimes it can start as a game or you may think the first time was funny, just like you can teach a dog bad habits like with tug-o-war.
There are quite a few threads on this subject, some better than others. When I began raising chickens, I started with Red Sexlinks. When the cockerel was about 9 months old, he became aggressive. I didn't want to cull him, but had to address the problem. When he first tried to bite when I'd catch him, I would smack him on the back of the head. NOT overly hard. The idea is to train the bird, not injure it. He quickly learned not to bite. He was getting worse about attacking, and I was getting afraid to go into the coop, and I was miserable. I didn't know much about chickens back then, but my solution was to get a long handled fish net, and when I went in the coop, I'd catch him and put him in a small dog crate, do everything I needed to do, then release him when I was ready to leave. It didn't take long, and he got used to the routine, so it was not very time consuming. I was safe from him, he was safe from being culled, and everybody was happy.
In the meantime, I learned a few things. Cockerels generally begin showing aggression when puberty hits them, anywhere from 6 - 12 months of age, depending on the breed, size, and genetics. At that point, they're like teenagers with raging hormones, but not a lot of good sense. I stumbled into a very good post on BYC by a person named Beekissed. I began using some of her techniques, since I was already using the long handled fish net to do a catch, and release on my cockerel. Within a few days, of using some of her methods, I was no longer putting him in the crate, to do routine coop chores. Yes, I still had to cage him when inspecting the hens, dusting them for mites/lice, etc., because the hens would squawk like they were being killed, and he would go into protection mode. Overall, he was a very good rooster, and I don't regret my choices. Had I used Beekissed's methods sooner, when it first began, I would probably have had much better results.
I've been raising a show quality breed for several years now, hatching, raising, and showing them. Once in awhile I'll get a cockerel that starts to show some aggression, and I take care of it immediately. Showing is a lot more hands-on with the chickens. No, my cockerels are not a dime a dozen that can easily be replaced. Culling is a very last resort, not a first choice. I've never had to cull one for aggression. I can go into any of my pens/coops, and handle any of my birds. In fact, when I bathe them, inspect them, dust for mites/lice, I do the cockerels/roosters first, then move on to the pullets/hens in each pen. When the females squawk, the males look, and you can almost read their thoughts....she already did that to me, and if I try to help you she'll probably try doing it to me again, so you're on your own.
I'm including what Beekissed posted that helped me, and many others, so much. I hope it helps you too. I will mention that every once in awhile, a person can run into a male that nothings seems to work on. After exhausting other options with no good outcome, then sending it to freezer camp becomes the best choice for all concerned. BTW, do not breed an overly aggressive rooster.
By Beekissed:
I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.
Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.
If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.
Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.
When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.
Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.
When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.
Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.
THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.
If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.
It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.
In the meantime, I learned a few things. Cockerels generally begin showing aggression when puberty hits them, anywhere from 6 - 12 months of age, depending on the breed, size, and genetics. At that point, they're like teenagers with raging hormones, but not a lot of good sense. I stumbled into a very good post on BYC by a person named Beekissed. I began using some of her techniques, since I was already using the long handled fish net to do a catch, and release on my cockerel. Within a few days, of using some of her methods, I was no longer putting him in the crate, to do routine coop chores. Yes, I still had to cage him when inspecting the hens, dusting them for mites/lice, etc., because the hens would squawk like they were being killed, and he would go into protection mode. Overall, he was a very good rooster, and I don't regret my choices. Had I used Beekissed's methods sooner, when it first began, I would probably have had much better results.
I've been raising a show quality breed for several years now, hatching, raising, and showing them. Once in awhile I'll get a cockerel that starts to show some aggression, and I take care of it immediately. Showing is a lot more hands-on with the chickens. No, my cockerels are not a dime a dozen that can easily be replaced. Culling is a very last resort, not a first choice. I've never had to cull one for aggression. I can go into any of my pens/coops, and handle any of my birds. In fact, when I bathe them, inspect them, dust for mites/lice, I do the cockerels/roosters first, then move on to the pullets/hens in each pen. When the females squawk, the males look, and you can almost read their thoughts....she already did that to me, and if I try to help you she'll probably try doing it to me again, so you're on your own.
I'm including what Beekissed posted that helped me, and many others, so much. I hope it helps you too. I will mention that every once in awhile, a person can run into a male that nothings seems to work on. After exhausting other options with no good outcome, then sending it to freezer camp becomes the best choice for all concerned. BTW, do not breed an overly aggressive rooster.
By Beekissed:
I'm going to give you a clue on "rooster speak"....holding him down doesn't mean anything to him. If you'll watch how roosters interact between dominant ones and subordinate ones, there is rarely any, if ever, holding a bird down for a long time when there is an altercation. There is very quick flogging, gripping by the back of the head and flinging him away or getting him down and giving some savage pecking to the back of the head or neck. No holding him down and nothing else. That's a rooster on a hen maneuver, not rooster on rooster.
Because your rooster is attacking you, you are the subordinate in this picture. You are getting dominated by your bird simply because you are walking where a subordinate isn't supposed to be walking when a dominant is in the area. What you never see is a dominant rooster getting attacked by a subordinate rooster unless there is going to be a definite shift in power, at which time the sub will challenge the dom and win...or lose. So far you are losing and not even challenging.
If you want to win this battle, you must go on the offensive, not the defensive. He who attacks first, and is still claiming the area when the other guy leaves it, is the winner. Some people never have to go on the offensive because their movements in the coop are so decisive that they move and act like a dominant and a 2 ft. rooster is smart enough to recognize a dominant attitude and behavior...which is likely why he's never attacked your husband. Most men move more decisively than do women and children and they rarely step around a bird, but walk through them.
Carrying him around also doesn't mean anything to him...it just doesn't translate at all. His environment is that coop and run floor and that's where you need to speak to him, in a language he understands. Because they are quick on their feet and can evade you, you need a training tool like a long, limber, supple rod of some kind...cutting a nice switch from a shrub or tree that will lengthen your reach by 5 ft. really helps in this. Don't use a rake or broom because they are too clumsy and stiff and can put the hurts on the guy when you don't really mean to.
When you enter your coop, walk with decisive movements and walk directly towards your rooster. Move him away from the feeder and the rest of the flock and keep a slow, determined pressure on him until he leaves the coop. The stick will help you guide him. Then...wait patiently while he gets his bird mind around what just happened. He will try to come back in the coop...let him. When he gets a good bit into that coop, take your switch and give him a good smack on the fluffy feathers under his tail if you can aim it well. If you cannot, just smack the floor near him very hard and fast until he hops and runs and keep at it until he leaves the coop once again. Repeat this process until he is too wary to come back in the coop.
Feed your hens. When he tries to come to the feeder, you "attack" him with the switch...smack the wall by the pop door just as he tries to enter. If he makes it inside, pursue him with the stick either smacking the floor or tapping him on the back or the head until he leaves in a hurry. Make him stay outside while you sit there and enjoy watching your hens eat. Use the stick to keep him from the flock..just him. Don't worry about the hens running and getting excited when this is happening...they will get over it. This is for the future of your flock and your management of it.
When the hens have had a good tucker....leave the coop and let him come back in. Go out later and walk through that flock and use your legs to scatter birds if they get in your way...top roosters do not step to one side for any other bird in the flock. You shouldn't either. Take your stick and startle him with a smack on the floor next to him when he is least expecting it...make that bird jump and RUN. Make him so nervous around you that he is always looking over his shoulder and trying to get out of your way. THAT'S how he needs to be from now on in your lives together. Forget about pets or cuddles...this is a language and behavior he understands. You can hand feed him and such later...right now you need to establish that when you move, he moves...away. When you turn your back, he doesn't move towards you...ever.
Then test him...take your stick along, move around in the coop, bend over with your back turned to him, feed, water, etc....but keep one eye on that rooster. If he even makes one tiny step in your direction or in your "zone", go on the attack and run him clear on out of the coop. Then keep him out while everyone else is eating.
THAT'S how a dominant rooster treats a subordinate. They don't let them crow, mate or even eat in their space. If the subordinate knows his place and watches over his shoulder a lot, he may get to come and eat while the other rooster is at the feeder...but he doesn't ever relax if he knows what is good for him. At any given time the dominant will run him off of that feed and he knows it, so he eats with one eye toward the door. If he feels the need to crow, it's not usually where the dom can reach him...maybe across the yard.
If your rooster crows while you are there, move towards him and keep on the pressure until he stops. He doesn't get to crow while you are there. He can crow later...not while you are there.
It all sounds time consuming but it really isn't...shouldn't take more than minutes for each lesson and you can learn a lot as you go along. And it can be fun if you venture into it with the right attitude....this is rooster training that really works if you do it correctly. This can work on strange roosters, multiple roosters and even old roosters...they can all learn. You rule the coop...now act like it. Carrying is for babies...you have a full grown rooster on your hands, not a baby.
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