Aineo's Coop and Run Project

[aineo]

I have been hiding in the shadows here at BYC for at least a year, maybe more. I nearly bought chickens last year, but backed out at the last minute, so when I heard our local Co-op had their chickens in, I made the move this year. We started that first trip with six Easter Eggers, but it didn't take two weeks until I decided I needed a few more, so we purchased four Rhode Island Reds. The chickens are growing fast in the garage, and it is obvious it is high time to get the coop and run built.

I have perused many of the coop and run designs here and on other sites, but was unable to find exactly what I wanted, so I ended up putting together several ideas to come up with my modular coop & run design. I will begin construction this weekend on the coop portion, and will add the initial run in the next few weeks. My amateurish plans are as follows:







The center part of the whole design is the coop, 8'x8', which will be three feet off the ground. The run extensions out to the side will be attached to the coop via latches that can be easily removed. The coop will be sitting on the ground on either treated 4x4s or treated 4x6 rails, in case I decide I want to try to move it. That is part of the reason for making the run "wings" removable. Each end of the run will open up so the chickens can be let out in the yard or in the future portable run.

The four corners of the frame will be treated 4x4s and the rest of the frame will be untreated 2x4s. The walls, floors, and ceiling will be OSB on the inside and outside. The outside will be coated with three coats of a water-resistant stain. I haven't decided on the roof yet, as the price of most of the roofing materials make me cringe. I am also not experienced with roofing at all, so I want to use something fairly easy. I am thinking of using Ondura 79-in x 48-in Red Corrugated Cellulose Asphalt Roof Panels. They seem to be some of the more affordable ones and they seem to be easy to work with. Eventually I might put some better material on the outside of the coop, but from what I have read the water-resistant stain should be fine for a while. Oh, I also don't plan on insulating it. Our winters are generally pretty mild here (far western KY), and for those cold streaks I can move a heater in there.

Inside the coop will be four laying boxes that are 12"x12"x12", a jail, and two roosting rails, probably 2x2s. While the drawing doesn't show this, I plan to put a poop board under the roosting rails. I also think I will be putting linoleum on the floor for easy cleaning, but I haven't decided for sure yet.

I plan to update this thread as I progress, but in the interim, if you see something I am planning that doesn't make sense, PLEASE speak up. I am a total novice at both raising chickens and building coops.

 

[fiddlebanshee]

I have ondura on a portion of my run and the first timea stormbles a smallish branch on it, it went right through. It isn't very sturdy, but I do not have any ply or osb under it.

 

[Judy]

I'd recommend a metal roof -- easy to install, requires less support than shingles (just cross pieces) and lasts forever. Roofing isn't cheap; you might as well buy something that will last for years, and might even be reused later on. I would not use OSB for outside walls, I'd go ahead and invest in plywood or something else meant to be used outdoores. Even with those coats of paint, I'm afraid you will find it will not last long. All it takes is a scratch or unsealed edge, and water gets in and turns it to mush. If you know it will be replaces in 2 or 3 years, go ahead with the OSB, however.

You're right that insulation is definitely not needed. Chickens just don't get cold in your type climate. Actually, the problem will be keeping them cool enough in summer; they will need lots of breeze and shade to survive 100 degrees. All they need in winter is enough of a ventilation hole or space to let out the humidity ghey put out overnight -- which is the main cause of frostbite, even at well below freezing temps. I like the roof slanted to one side because the space between the wall top and roof at the high pint is the ideal place to leave open (a few inches, all across that side) vor fentilation. Just plan enough overhang to prevent rain blowing in, and voila! Another advantage of metal roof: easy to leave overhang, does not need much support for several inches.

I use the flat side of a 2x4 as a roost. Better foot coverage for frostbite prevention, and also more comfortable for the way their feet work, IMO. Lots of folks use a fat branch with good success, too.

Be sure there is plenty of opening for good summer breeze.. Half of one of my walls, and about 1/3 of the opposite one, is not wall but hardware cloth, in addition to being open for several inches on all 4 sides. I run a fan all summer, and in the iddle of the hottest days, the girls use the coop for shade, even though they have tall bushes outdoors available as well.

You might also consider a more open sided design for your relatively nild climate. Take a look at this thread:

https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/163417/please-show-me-your-hot-weather-coops/0_20

 

[aineo]

Thanks for the comments fiddlebanshee and Judy.

I have decided the points you made about the metal roof make sense - that is the route I will go.

Judy, the point you made on the OSB also made sense. Was trying to find a thread I read on here about how OSB stood up if water-resistant stain was used, but nevertheless, I will follow your advice. Again, I am not an experienced builder - does the exterior walls have to be treated plywood or is untreated and painted fine?

I am considering only using exterior walls, so I would prefer not to use treated. Thoughts?

 

[fiddlebanshee]

Well, I think opinions on osb will differ. I am building a new A frame quail house/run and I will use osb on the slanted walls/roof because it is what I have on hand. I will also cover it with some kind of roofing material (most likely metal). I may put some clear polyurethene on it to seal it a bit more. I will also use it on the floor, and because quail don't really do ladders, I will put the floor close to the gorund. To prevent rot, I will put a 6 mil plastic sheet between the joists and the osb floor to protect it from moisture coming up from the ground.

Maybe I will regret this later, I don't know, but at $6 a sheet vs. $20 for plywood, and more if treated, I don't think there is any question in my mind on what to use.

 

[aineo]

Construction began this weekend. I went back and forth on whether to use plywood, some other proper siding, or OSB. In the end, I went with OSB. As I was ordering the wood from a local lumber company, I asked them for their opinion, and the salesguy, who I personally know, said, "I built a shed at my house and I using OSB. If you protect it, it will last. It won't last as long as other siding might, but for the price difference it is worth it." I might regret it. We'll see.

Anyhow, here are the pics of the progress so far:








The black on the floor is rubberized fiber roof coating.

Three big lessons learned so far:

• I am not a carpenter (repeat this over and over).
• Just because I think I can finish a project in a day doesn't mean I can.
• I am OUT OF SHAPE. Lifting, crawling, squatting, hammering, cutting, etc has proven that to me over and over

The rain set in last night, and my hope had been to have this thing under roof before then, but that didn't happen. Instead, I have a big blue tarp over the top of it with a ladder in the middle to keep the water from pooling, so I am sure the neighbors are wondering what this project is under the tarp. Perhaps an odd looking gazebo?

I plan on one more coat on the floor, and the intent right now is to coat the outside with Thompson's Water Seal. I am second guessing this right now though. I have had a few people say I would be better off with paint. I already have the water seal, but it wouldn't be a problem to return it and get paint instead. I have a few days to decide, since I don't plan on working on it again until at least Wednesday.

 

[jetdog]

I would go with a couple of heavy coats of paint to really get into the nooks and crannies and seal it up.