Alternate worming with Safeguard

[EyeKeyYou]

Yes. Per the label I should be mixing 1:30 I am mixing 1:4 so actually 7.5 times more.

 

[casportpony]

Yes. Per the label I should be mixing 1:30 I am mixing 1:4 so actually 7.5 times more.

I see what you mean, but what you might not know is that amount is that because of the FDA and withdrawals for meat, not because it's the most effective or because more is "unsafe/toxic". It's all about fattening up young turkeys for slaughter.

Either amount is contraindicated when positive for capillary worms.

-Kathy

 

[EyeKeyYou]

Why are we trying to treat capillary worms with Fenbendazole from my reading on a link on this site it would require 100mg/kg or 8cc for a large male, single dose. Sounds pretty ineffective and not very cost effective compared to levimiasole.

 

[casportpony]

Why are we trying to treat capillary worms with Fenbendazole from my reading on a link on this site it would require 100mg/kg or 8cc for a large male, single dose. Sounds pretty ineffective and not very cost effective compared to levimiasole.

One study says that a single dose of 100 mg/kg will treat capillary worms, but I think most vets would suggest 50 mg/kg for five days.

Have never seen an 8 kg male, but I guess there could be a few out there.

Largest mature males I have weigh 6 kg
Smallest healthy mature males weighs 4 kg.
My obese spalding hen weighs 5.3 kg
My large hens weigh 4 kg
Smallest hens weigh 3 kg
Yearling hens weigh 2.5 kg to 3 kg
Yearling males weigh 3.5 kg to 4 kg

Safeguard vs levimiasole? Safeguard is safer and easier to give. Tell me, if you had to dose one bird with levimiasole orally, how would you do it? Safeguard can be used to treat sick birds, but I don't think levimiasole can. Levimiasole is a powder that is mixed in water, yes? Does the label have directions for dosing individual poultry?

-Kathy

 

[EyeKeyYou]

Sorry I got the 8kg from numbers earlier on this post most of my males don't even reach 12lb, I was starting to feel inadequate. But why give a 5kg peacock 12.5ml of safeguard, why not use Valbazen wouldn't it be more cost effective if worming orally plus I'd rather catch it 3 days rather than 5. Also I need help in how to not have to dose individually hence the levimiasole but this still does not address what to do in rainy weather.
Any ideas how to worm adequately without catching individually in rainy weather where peas have access to alternate water source.

 

[KsKingBee]

Do you actually know if you have worms to treat for? If so, what worms? If you don't have capillary worms then a one-day treatment can be done with safeguard at two ml per hen and three ml per cock. Have you considered having a fecal float done to determine IF you have worms to treat for? You can save yourself a lot of headaches by spending the $20 and you can also save a lot of money by not dosing for five days when you only need a one-day treatment.

The thing about adding the safeguard to a wet mash is that birds will eat, they may not drink much if they don't like the taste or may find another source, but they will still eat and if the meds are in the feed they will still get it. Also, consider buying Safeguard by the gallon to save even more money. The last gallon I bought had an almost two-year shelf life.

Another thing you said bothers me, that you put Safeguard in the water? Unless you buy the new water soluble version that just came out the old Safeguard is not water soluble and will sink to the bottom of the water dish.

 

[EyeKeyYou]

No worms purely preventitive. So how do you worm? Do you worm in rotation? How often do you do fecal and what type of sampling do you use? If you run fecals and have proper sampling do you have to worm at all?

The safeguard sinking is why I am trying to look at this alternative. Two of my waterers have a pumps but the others just get shaken a lot hence I prefer Tramisol but still have to rotate to cover all parasites. At the dosages required for capillary worms a gallon wouldn't last a year for 50 adults let alone any offspring so expiration is not a problem.

So in conclusion since this feed can only provide 20mg/kg fed straight which is short of the 50mg/kg for 5 days it is ineffective. For anyone just scanning this thread DO NOT USE.

My problem is still more ideas how to worm adequately without catching individually in rainy weather where peas have access to alternate water source.

So far we have:
The mash which sounds interesting. What is the mix ratio or title of thread where discussed, of course the dying comment due to fermentation is worrisome.

Thanks Norman

 

[KsKingBee]

To me 'preventative' works if you take pain meds before you go to the dentist, but treating for worms that you don't have is both a waste of time and money, but the overuse of medications when not needed could lead to lower effectiveness when it is needed. I had promoted deworming before breeding season and before winter, but now that I can do my own fecal exams at home I can monitor much more closely and treat anytime it is needed.

If you consider the cost of the equipment to the cost of lost birds it is pretty easy to justify making the $350 investment. Now whenever I am walking through a pen and see a pile that doesn't 'look right', I can do a quick exam under the microscope and KNOW if treating is a necessity. And better yet, know what I need to use and for how long to solve the problem.

A quick search will reveal a couple of threads on doing fecal floats at home and feeding wet or fermented feeds. I think it was also addressed in the Safeguard and feather damage thread too.

 

[EyeKeyYou]

Sounds great already have the microscope this should simplify life greatly. Was just told to worm every three months and I thought it was like giving heartworm pills to dogs every month you either did it or they suddenly started dying.