Am I a genius or an idiot?

Discussion in 'Coop & Run - Design, Construction, & Maintenance' started by Cryss, Jan 18, 2018.

  1. Cryss

    Cryss Crowing

    Nov 12, 2017
    Northwest New Jersey
    Ok, I don't tell short stories so hang in there for the back story first.:old:pop
    I have had my 4 pullets (meh, one just turned out to be a roo) since mid november and already realise A. I need a bigger coop, and B. I want more chickens. Part B is easier to accomplish but needs part A first. I am no carpenter. Neither is hubby, so I have been researching everything :caf from DIY coops to for-sale-used coops to jbadsaai (just-buy-a-darn-shed-and-alter-it) coops. Used sheds were, well, used. Scared me, might have chicken disease attached and they either are too small or impossible to transport from far away. jbadsaai meant saws and tools, nails, screws, windows, doors...and none met my sense of what was needed for eaves. I want large, deep eaves. Plus I want a dirt floor and most come with a floor. DIY...have I mentioned we have no carpentry skills? But here I am trying to psych myself up to believe that if I gather pallets I can build the coop of my dreams. :idunno I have specific requirements. Predator proof, doh. Aformentioned dirt floor, planning to use DLM. Walk-In height and door. Roosts that don't allow any chicken to become a poopcicle. My Repecca doesn't roost because of her pigeon toes. Heck, she cant even step off of a 2 inch high roost without stumbling. She needs to be able to nestle down in a bed like a nesting box or just on the floor. She also doesn't traverse the ramp well. Going down is more like sliding/falling/flapping. I want a ground floor pop door.
    Ok, so have a look at this thread for pictures of my current coop and run (10x10x6) (before some very minor adjustments like a higher roost n such). I believe pics might be about 7 posts down.
    My plan has been to extend the run 20 feet to the right (when facing the fence door), and building the new coop to the left. This would require disconnecting both ends chain link panels, and the 1x2 wire covering, and the 1/2 inch hardware cloth covering, and the 2ft wide wire apron, AND disconnecting them from the wire roof. Then the new coop would be built and attached as would the chain link fence run extention. Then of course the newly extended run would be made the same way with all aforementioned wire coverings AS WELL AS the new coop. Did I mention I have predators? :drool
    All this is stressing me to no end. Oh, did I mention I'm getting 2 more pullets on Monday? :jumpy:jumpy Trading in the rooster for 2 pullets so its only an increase of 1. But the roo will be hanging out for about 1-2 weeks till the new gals are settled so...increase of 2 for 2 weeks. So the part about wanting more chickens has only just begun to be realised. Stress.:th
    So, here's where either I'm a genius or an idiot comes in. As I stressed over how I want a wood coop but have only ever built my fence of fort knox run, and dreading having to build so much more of said fence plus protecting the wood coop itself, inspiration hit me. I already have the coop protection. Just turn the current run into the new large coop! First add on the extended run and its coverings. Then, inside the current run, attach wood boards to the inside on the back, left, and front (except for the door of course, gonna come up with a new door...I hope), and build a wood wall across the right side with the pop door I envision. Basically building a coop inside the current run. Add a slanted roof with ventalation, maybe a window or two...the current TS coop would stay where it is for introductions, injuries, time out, etc. I think since it will be inside the wall I might even give it it's own pop door to the run but with a smaller area wired off for outdoor introductions. I a genius for coming up with this, or am I an idiot because IT'S BEEN RIGHT THERE IN FRONT OF ME ALL ALONG!!!! and I didn't see it!:eek::smack
    Seriously though, you carpenter/builder types, hints, instructions, ideas, whatever thoughts you have would be most welcome, did I mention I'm no carpenter?
    Oh, and if I use a slant roof, high end right, low end left, considering it is 10x10, how high should each end be? How deep all 4 eaves? Suggestions for this?
    I'll stop now.
    Did I mention I don't tell short stories?:duc
  2. oldhenlikesdogs

    oldhenlikesdogs Making Coffee

    Jul 16, 2015
    central Wisconsin
    You are a genius. Other geniuses like @aart , and @21hens-incharge , and others, will come along and help you out. I'm just gonna follow allowing.
    Hybridchucks, N Sully, JaeG and 12 others like this.
  3. Soon2BChixMom

    Soon2BChixMom Herding ducks and Wrangling chickens

    Jan 8, 2017
    @Cryss you're hilarious!

    So which one turned out to be the roo? And where is he going to go?
  4. Cryss

    Cryss Crowing

    Nov 12, 2017
    Northwest New Jersey
    I'm no where near the brilliance of those 2++++:bow. But thanks for not calling me an idiot. I'v been slapping myself all morning for misding something so simple. I do tend to overthink things. Just ask my hubby. :hmm;)
    sadieml, N Sully, VHoff and 4 others like this.
  5. camochick96

    camochick96 Songster

    Apr 27, 2017
    North TX
    Sounds like a great idea! I hope others can help you get more ideas. :pop
  6. KettermanHillCoop

    KettermanHillCoop Crowing

    Oct 23, 2017
    Sounds like a doable plan to me... Let the BYC Engineer Gods & Goddesses chime in to lend you a hand on the nuts and bolts of doing it though. :)
    VHoff, Mama Runner, 007Sean and 2 others like this.
  7. Ptera

    Ptera Songster

    Oct 9, 2017
    Nothing wrong with building a new wooden coop inside a wire run. I'd make sure the roof & sides of the new coop aren't too close to the wire of the run. If a chicken panics & freezes when a predator gets near the wire it could get hurt through the wire. If you doubt your carpentry-from-scratch skills you could purchase a shed kit or coop kit that is delivered in pieces. I've even seen them on If the coop is inside the run it wouldn't need to be "as" predator proof as the one outside the run, but should be free from drafts & rain proof. I'm not as sold on the dirt floor thing. It would be easier to clean, IMHO, to have a solid floor. You can then put sand, pine shavings or Sweet PDZ on it, and scrape it out with a hoe when it gets soiled. That would also keep the birds from tunneling under the sides. You would only need a roof slant of 4" - 6" or so, from one side to the other, to keep rain running off, but the more slant the less easy for the birds to sit on the roof and poop on it. Eave length is not that critical. 12" works on most homes to keep driving rain off the windows. I would think a coop could get away with half that since there are fewer windows. Depends on what you want them for. You can make the coop as high as you want. If some of your birds can jump or fly well, height is no obstacle to you putting multiple level roosting bars in there, just not on top of each other (they'll poop on the birds below). To me, it's more important for the humans to have comfortable access to all areas of the coop & run. Your pigeon-toed girl is gonna sleep wherever she wants to, whether you have a designated place for her or not. Maybe if you put a covered box in the corner she'll go in there. They like to feel protected and not out in the open. Good luck!
    VHoff, Mama Runner and Cryss like this.
  8. HenOnAJuneBug

    HenOnAJuneBug Crowing

    May 20, 2015
    I ran into the same issue with sheds being too hard/costly to transport. So I went with a used metal shed that could be taken apart, easily transported and reassembled. You can also do that with plastic sheds.
    VHoff, Mama Runner and Cryss like this.
  9. Brahma Chicken5000

    Brahma Chicken5000 Araucana Addict

    Sep 26, 2017
    Central New Jersey
    First off your run can accommodate 10 pullets/hens and in my opinion you don’t need to expand your run if you’re going to have a total of 10 or less pullets/hens. Secondly I think that you should replace the hardware clothe of your prefab coop with plywood and make the prefab coop with its attached run into a henhouse. Turn the original prefab henhouse into the area where the girls will lay their eggs and add roosts in the prefab run. Also add a landing to make the ramp less steep.
    684C34F8-D8A4-4D86-AE15-C80151671064.jpeg 3F424EB3-395F-4E48-AD5C-6BCCD22143B5.jpeg
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2018
  10. Cryss

    Cryss Crowing

    Nov 12, 2017
    Northwest New Jersey
    Maryjane, the large Lavender Orpington, is the roo. The breeder guarantees Lavender pullets and will exchange any that come up roos for a Lavender pullet. Since Mr Roo has learned to crow I want to get this done quickly, but breeders lavs are not ready for outdoors. He offered me 2 Black Autrolorps instead if I want them right now. I'm going for it. He will sell the roo bu not to worry, no one that buys a $20+ chicken has it destined for he stew pot.:thumbsup
    VHoff, Mama Runner, 007Sean and 3 others like this.

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