Am I a genius or an idiot?

[Cryss]

First off your run can accommodate 10 pullets/hens and in my opinion you don’t need to expand your run if you’re going to have a total of 10 or less pullets/hens. Secondly I think that you should replace the hardware clothe of your prefab coop with plywood and make the prefab coop with its attached run into a henhouse. Turn the original prefab henhouse into the area where the girls will lay their eggs and add roosts in the prefab run. Also add a landing to make the ramp less steep.
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Riiight...whats a landing? If its an extension straight out from the hen house then the ramp would be steeper.

 

[Brahma Chicken5000]

Riiight...whats a landing? If its an extension straight out from the hen house then the ramp would be steeper.

You will have to most likely add another shorter ramp say it extends down six inches and then attach the current ramp to the extension ramp. It’s hard to put into words, I’ll try to draw a picture.

 

[Cryss]

You will have to most likely add another shorter ramp say it extends down six inches and then attach the current ramp to the extension ramp. It’s hard to put into words, I’ll try to draw a picture.

Like stairs? Or rather, like one rather large step?

 

[Brahma Chicken5000]

I guess what I’m really trying to say is: to make you ramp less steep you have to make it longer.

 

[Cryss]

I guess what I’m really trying to say is: to make you ramp less steep you have to make it longer.

Hmmmm...ok I think I get it, but theres no real room unless I zig zag back the other way. I'll have to give that some thought.

 

[N F C]

Maybe you could make the ramp less steep if you put a wooden or concrete block under the end (the end that touches the ground)? That's worked for me before.

I hope you'll take lots of pictures of your build, best of luck!

 

[Cryss]

Maybe you could make the ramp less steep if you put a wooden or concrete block under the end (the end that touches the ground)? That's worked for me before.

I hope you'll take lots of pictures of your build, best of luck!

Actually I did put a log underneath and also atttached a wider board under the surface of the original as a way to make it wider. Repecca jist has balance issues if shes not on a lat surface. I also wonder if she has some visual problems. She sees my hand with a treat and pecks but misses more often than the others. She doesn't run to a tossed treat but may make her way there eventually. Come to think of it she doesnt run to anything. She makes a beeline for me when I visit the coop but shes not running.

 

[Soon2BChixMom]

Maryjane, the large Lavender Orpington, is the roo. The breeder guarantees Lavender pullets and will exchange any that come up roos for a Lavender pullet. Since Mr Roo has learned to crow I want to get this done quickly, but breeders lavs are not ready for outdoors. He offered me 2 Black Autrolorps instead if I want them right now. I'm going for it. He will sell the roo bu not to worry, no one that buys a $20+ chicken has it destined for he stew pot.

I can't believe you are already expanding.

 

[Cryss]

I can't believe you are already expanding.

Me either...by all of 1. But it's a start.

 

[Cryss]

Nothing wrong with building a new wooden coop inside a wire run. I'd make sure the roof & sides of the new coop aren't too close to the wire of the run. If a chicken panics & freezes when a predator gets near the wire it could get hurt through the wire. If you doubt your carpentry-from-scratch skills you could purchase a shed kit or coop kit that is delivered in pieces. I've even seen them on Amazon.com. If the coop is inside the run it wouldn't need to be "as" predator proof as the one outside the run, but should be free from drafts & rain proof. I'm not as sold on the dirt floor thing. It would be easier to clean, IMHO, to have a solid floor. You can then put sand, pine shavings or Sweet PDZ on it, and scrape it out with a hoe when it gets soiled. That would also keep the birds from tunneling under the sides. You would only need a roof slant of 4" - 6" or so, from one side to the other, to keep rain running off, but the more slant the less easy for the birds to sit on the roof and poop on it. Eave length is not that critical. 12" works on most homes to keep driving rain off the windows. I would think a coop could get away with half that since there are fewer windows. Depends on what you want them for. You can make the coop as high as you want. If some of your birds can jump or fly well, height is no obstacle to you putting multiple level roosting bars in there, just not on top of each other (they'll poop on the birds below). To me, it's more important for the humans to have comfortable access to all areas of the coop & run. Your pigeon-toed girl is gonna sleep wherever she wants to, whether you have a designated place for her or not. Maybe if you put a covered box in the corner she'll go in there. They like to feel protected and not out in the open. Good luck!

Thank you for your input. Good points. Couple quesions but first let me clarify. My plan isn't to just build a second coop inside the run. My plan is to actually turn the run itself into a coop by adding wooden walls to the inside of the fence panels and a slanted roof over top the whole thing. So, yes, the wood will be right up against the fence. My question for you is, with a 10" rise on one end of the slant roof is this enough to prevent heavy snow and ice damage? Will it slide off before collapsing the roof?