Unfortunately I'm the one who had the poor old dog die cause he ate to many chickens. I've got another problem. A puppy... We have 3 older dogs who I've seen kill rabbits, squirrels, wild birds, snakes, cats (ferral), ect. I figured I was making a huge mistake getting chickens. We've had chickens for 2 years now. The 1 dog who did kill them, died, the other 3... NEVER... Greatfully they don't think of it. We have left for a couple of days or so in the summer and left everyone loose. No killed birds!! They run loose together all the time now. My big dog Dagger has actually 'rolled' chickens cause they get too close to him in the yard. He hates to be bothered off of HIS terms. We got a pup, she was dropped and we found her in the woods all caught in a chain tangled up. She was screaming her head off. We took a walk and saved her. We just spayed her. Shes killed 2 chickens. But I swear I think she doesn't mean too. They are not all the way died or mauled when I find them. Ofcourse I am balling trying to revive them. She just looks at me like she is so confused or in trouble. She is so young, I love her & I want to give her a chance. I want her to be good enough to run with the other dogs. Is there any hope or am I just in for an endless battle??
Any 'ol timer dog training tricks????
- Thread starter MakNat
- Start date
If she is still a pup there may be hope for her. In the old days, they used to take the dead chicken and fix it to the dog's collar and let them wear it until it fell off.
You have to re-inforce in her that she is not to harm the chickens. It will take time, patience and repitition. Every time she goes near one and you see her tell her no in a firm voice.
Good Luck
You have to re-inforce in her that she is not to harm the chickens. It will take time, patience and repitition. Every time she goes near one and you see her tell her no in a firm voice.
Good Luck
ive seen a bottle of compressed air used or a spray bottle of very cold water. Stay with her and she she gets close spray her face. It should startle her. It wont hurt her but she will associate the chickens with something unpleasant. My aunt had a very destructive golden lab who developed separation anxiety after 2 people returned him after hey couldnt handle him. This is one of the ways she trained him and he did well.
Best trick I ever tried was to put a training collar on them...use a LOW setting for the puppy...whenever they get to close to one of the birds ZAP them and they won't go near the birds after a couple of times. The definitely identify them with something unpleasant.
Tying a dead bird around them doesn't work...tried that.
Tying a dead bird around them doesn't work...tried that.
I have seen a dog eating a chicken with a dead one alreacy on its collar, so i am guessing this does not work.
I would go witht the SHOCK collar. You have to be there to shock them when they get to the point of killing !! This may be hard to do.
If you have free range birds, the best thing you can do it get a metal dog kennel and put the pup right smack dab in the middle of the chickens so the pup just gets used to them.
Then you have to be there with the dog and the flock and warn him on a continual basis.
You have to be dilegent and attentive. It may be a hard road.
I would go witht the SHOCK collar. You have to be there to shock them when they get to the point of killing !! This may be hard to do.
If you have free range birds, the best thing you can do it get a metal dog kennel and put the pup right smack dab in the middle of the chickens so the pup just gets used to them.
Then you have to be there with the dog and the flock and warn him on a continual basis.
You have to be dilegent and attentive. It may be a hard road.
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You just have to keep trying to train her not to mess with the birds.
I was always told you can't teach a chicken killer to not kill a chicken.
When I was a teenage, I had a cur dog that loved to kill chickens. That was one of the reasons I ended up with him. He went everywhere with me, running next to my horses (whom he loved).
Of course where I kept the horse, there were chickens so I had to be extra alert to stop him before he made a nugget dash. I tried everything with him, including 'beating him' ( I was kid and that was what I was taught at the time). NONE of it worked.
One day, we went to go riding the horse and he made a dash for one of the chickens. I had HAD enough. I ended up tieing him up and leaving to go ride. I heard that dog howl for miles (I rode the country side).
From that time on, he woudn't even LOOK at a chicken. Somehow, he learned from that, that he was not to touch chickens.
So you just have to find what will work for that particular dog. For her to understand that chickens are not to play with, eat, chase, ect.
I was always told you can't teach a chicken killer to not kill a chicken.
When I was a teenage, I had a cur dog that loved to kill chickens. That was one of the reasons I ended up with him. He went everywhere with me, running next to my horses (whom he loved).
Of course where I kept the horse, there were chickens so I had to be extra alert to stop him before he made a nugget dash. I tried everything with him, including 'beating him' ( I was kid and that was what I was taught at the time). NONE of it worked.
One day, we went to go riding the horse and he made a dash for one of the chickens. I had HAD enough. I ended up tieing him up and leaving to go ride. I heard that dog howl for miles (I rode the country side).
From that time on, he woudn't even LOOK at a chicken. Somehow, he learned from that, that he was not to touch chickens.
So you just have to find what will work for that particular dog. For her to understand that chickens are not to play with, eat, chase, ect.
- Thread starter
- #7
Thank all of you so much! I do have a shock collar, it was for a jack russel so it should be fine for her. Shes 6 monthes and 38 pounds. I think she will be pretty big. I wish I could post a pic, I'm curious of what you guys might think she is mixed with. I don't know. My chicken killer who died was also a Cur. I tried tying the bird to him. I watched him eat it. The pup acts almost like she is scared after they can't run. I exspecailly like the cage tip! I will try that if I need to. I'm just going to watch her like a hawk and give it my darndest. I love her and want to keep her!!!
When I first got my chickens I only put my golden retriever out when I could keep an eye on her. Everytime she went within 10 feet of a chicken i would ZAP her even from in the house watching from the window.
I kept her in her run otherwise. After a month or so she got it and acts afraid of them. I still don't leave her unsupervised when they are free ranging as I don't want to tempt her and have her get the taste of chicken. as I know we would then have a huge problem.
I kept her in her run otherwise. After a month or so she got it and acts afraid of them. I still don't leave her unsupervised when they are free ranging as I don't want to tempt her and have her get the taste of chicken. as I know we would then have a huge problem.
TEACH HER TO "LEAVE IT"
It is a command you can use in all areas of your lives.
Don't put her in a situation that may cause her to make a poor choice! Until she learns basic command like "down" and "leave it" she needs to be restrained around your chickens. It won't take long at all to teach her and she'll be a better partner if she knows what is expected and can achieve it.
Best of Luck to your whole family
"Leave It"
Why teach your dog to "Leave It"? The goal is to have your dog take his attention away from an object of interest when you cue "leave it". This is important when the item of interest is unsafe, such dropped medication and is also a useful self-control exercise.
Have treats hidden in both of your fists. Let him sniff one of your fists. Click and treat (C/T) when he looks away from your fist and deliver the treat from your other hand. Repeat until he no longer tries to get the treat from your fist when you show it to him.
Open your hand containing the treat and show him the treat, but close it if he tries to get the treat. Repeat until he decides to ignore the treat while your hand is open and then C/T by delivering the treat with your other hand. Repeat the exercise until every time you present your open decoy hand with a treat in it he is ignoring it right away. At this point, add the cue "leave it" (say this just once for each repetition of the exercise) as you display the decoy treat.
Set the treat on the floor and cue "leave it". Cover the treat with your hand if he tries to get it. C/T when he looks away from the treat. Repeat the exercise until he doesn't try to get the treat from the floor once you say "leave it".
Set the treat on the floor, say "leave it" and stand up. Cover it with your foot if he tries for it. C/T for ignoring the treat. Repeat.
Walk him past the treat on leash, say "leave it" when he sees the treat and keep him from getting it with the leash. C/T when he ignores the decoy treat on the floor. Repeat.
Next have fun and increase the length of time that he leaves it or stack treats on his paws or toss them around.
Teach him that "leave it" also applies to objects such as toys and living things. By beginning with something very easy and building up to the more difficult.
Use the chart to keep track of your progress.
Check when successful at "leaving it" for 8 out of 10 requests:
Will leave
Low value object in your hand
High value object in your hand
Low and high value object, on the floor
Low and high value object on floor with you 10 feet away
Walk by object, on leash inside or outside
Thrown or dropped object inside or outside
Live subject inside or outside
Object/subject for 1 minute or more
Example objects:
Low value: Cheerio
High value: cheese cube or piece of rawhide
Best of luck and Thanks for helping her out!
It is a command you can use in all areas of your lives.
Don't put her in a situation that may cause her to make a poor choice! Until she learns basic command like "down" and "leave it" she needs to be restrained around your chickens. It won't take long at all to teach her and she'll be a better partner if she knows what is expected and can achieve it.
Best of Luck to your whole family
"Leave It"
Why teach your dog to "Leave It"? The goal is to have your dog take his attention away from an object of interest when you cue "leave it". This is important when the item of interest is unsafe, such dropped medication and is also a useful self-control exercise.
Have treats hidden in both of your fists. Let him sniff one of your fists. Click and treat (C/T) when he looks away from your fist and deliver the treat from your other hand. Repeat until he no longer tries to get the treat from your fist when you show it to him.
Open your hand containing the treat and show him the treat, but close it if he tries to get the treat. Repeat until he decides to ignore the treat while your hand is open and then C/T by delivering the treat with your other hand. Repeat the exercise until every time you present your open decoy hand with a treat in it he is ignoring it right away. At this point, add the cue "leave it" (say this just once for each repetition of the exercise) as you display the decoy treat.
Set the treat on the floor and cue "leave it". Cover the treat with your hand if he tries to get it. C/T when he looks away from the treat. Repeat the exercise until he doesn't try to get the treat from the floor once you say "leave it".
Set the treat on the floor, say "leave it" and stand up. Cover it with your foot if he tries for it. C/T for ignoring the treat. Repeat.
Walk him past the treat on leash, say "leave it" when he sees the treat and keep him from getting it with the leash. C/T when he ignores the decoy treat on the floor. Repeat.
Next have fun and increase the length of time that he leaves it or stack treats on his paws or toss them around.
Teach him that "leave it" also applies to objects such as toys and living things. By beginning with something very easy and building up to the more difficult.
Use the chart to keep track of your progress.
Check when successful at "leaving it" for 8 out of 10 requests:
Will leave
Low value object in your hand
High value object in your hand
Low and high value object, on the floor
Low and high value object on floor with you 10 feet away
Walk by object, on leash inside or outside
Thrown or dropped object inside or outside
Live subject inside or outside
Object/subject for 1 minute or more
Example objects:
Low value: Cheerio
High value: cheese cube or piece of rawhide
Best of luck and Thanks for helping her out!
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