Any problems with a 4' high hardware cloth run addition?

Oh, yeah, make it high. My Version 1.0 was only 3' high, my poor aching back and you can't believe what I had to go thru to catch unwilling hens and roosters. Version 2.0 is now 6' high. If you want nifty connectors for either hardware cloth or poultry netting, try those "electrical" ties, the kind that police depts. use for handcuffs. They come in dozens of sizes and colors and are pretty inexpensive, I go thru them like candy.
 
my newest section of run is only 5' tall, im 5'6 and have to stoop over to walk about, but i had the wire already and dont mind, i only go in there once a day to refill water/feed, and it didnt cost me anything (which was the main thing), if i had to buy wire id have gone for 6'
 
Quote:
Plastic ties deteriorate from sunlight and general exposure, though some are better than others.

The best solution I've found for hardware cloth is to staple it into place for ease of handling, and then use screws and washers to secure it properly.
 
I use the cattle panels which are 16 ft. long by 4 and a half feet tall. Use a few metal t posts to hold them. Panels are around 22.00 ea. and t posts are approx. 4.50 ea.

I then use the 3 ft. fencing from Menards and hog ring it to the panels. 50 ft. is less than 20.00 on sale.
The fencing has small openings at bottom and gradually gets bigger. kind of like rabbit fencing.

I then use my netting with zip ties to go over the top.
Yes you have to stoop over a bit I am 5 ft. 4 in. but it is a very secure pen..... And to make a gate just use a 3 or 4 ft. section and slightly overlap it onto adjoining fence and use a couple of clips to latch it.
 
I was low on funds so I put an old metal swing set in mine and hung the netting over the top of it where I could get in there to clean etc.
 
I agree with the suggestions to make it high enough for you to get under it. A 20' x 24' is a lot different from a 8' x 8' when it comes to raking or general access.

I find 2" x 4" welded wire suitable for the sides on mine and I think it would work well for the top. That should stop most serious predators. Snakes, rats and some weasels could still get through but those are real hard to stop anyway. I can live with that risk. You can put cheap chicken wire on the inside bottom 2 feet of the welded wire to keep the chickens from sticking their heads out and to keep chicks in. The chicken wire keeps chicken parts in. The welded wire keeps predators out. Use plenty of attachments if you do put chicken wire on the bottom to keep chickens from getting between the chicken wire and welded wire, top and bottom. I had to add a few more. 2' is plenty high for the chicken wire.

I use J-clips instead of hog rings to attach wire to wire. Same general principle and just personal preference. I found the J-clips and pliers in the rabbit section of Tractor Supply since this is a traditional method of building rabbit cages.

You will need some intermediate supports in a 20' x 24' run to stop sag of the wire overhead, whether you use hardware cloth or welded wire. I'd suggest you consider making the sides of this run only 4' high tohelpwith costs, but put in higher posts and cable or wooded support down the center of the 20' wide section, then string the welded wire over the top. I'd think 7' high for this center section would give you reasonable access and you should be able to be pretty efficient on use of material to close off those triangular openings on the ends.

You can still expect them to strip all the green stuff out of this addition but they willl love the extra space.
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom