Automatic coop door (timer)

Hey Rob,
I saw that you use an door lock actuator. Where did you get yours for $5? And how do you set up the wiring to be compatible with AC power?

In your video, you have the pin recessing to let down the door, right? So, the car door lock would be "unlocking", right?

Then you mentioned wanting to shut off the power as soon as possible so to not burn out the motor, right? That is where you recommended a more detailed timer.
So, when the power is triggered again, does the actuator go to "lock" mode? Is that how it works?

There has got to be other switches out there. Like winding type mechanisms or flapping type mechanisms. This is like one of those things you get your own individual mind stuck on, or hung on a particular design. But if you have many brains out there working on it, someone is bound to think of the perfect solution!

Anyway, I am glad you have found an early solution to preventing more raccoon damage!
 
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Could you repeat that.... in english... LOL
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I'm joking, I dont need you to repeat it... but it almost sounds like the language of star trek or something.... actuators, circuits, reed switches....
 
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Yeah, I've see those for years. I believe they are being distributed for the company that makes them in Europe. Too expensive for me, and do more than I need them to do... I just need a fail-safe in case we forget / can't be there to close the door.
 
Peepthis541, this is basically what I got (different seller I think):ebay door lock actuators

The AC adapter converts AC to DC. I use a 12v 200 mA adapter that came from an old portable phone charger.

I had a stroke of genius when I was building the thing. I was struggling with how to cut power when the door was released. I was going to use a limit switch, set of relays, maybe even a circuit, but all of a sudden it hit me:

All the parts I was using were metal. Once the pin is pulled and the door falls, the circuit is broken. You can see in the image I have an alligator clip on the bracket and also on the pull pin. Pin pulled = broken circuit = power cut to actuator!

I'll post more details and pictures on my site www.nifty-stuff.com tomorrow.
 

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