Best chick hatchery for roosters

I have about an acre of mowed fenced in range, with many trees and bushes (mostly fruit for the chickens and my family). There are quite a few areas for the birds to run to and hide but many of the trees and bushes have been planted within the last 5 years, so they have some growing to do.

I free feed my flock inside the coop, most birds spend the day outside foraging for what they can find in my compost, grass, and mulched areas. I'm in growing zone 5b, so there is only so much food for the birds much of the year. I want the birds to find as much food on their own as possible, I can't really say a percentage as it varies from season to season. For reference, my 40 birds (chickens and guinea) eat about 50 pounds of bagged pellets a week during the summer, and it doubles in the winter.
 
Not sure how you would define the vigor you are looking for. Since you are bringing in new stock the offspring will have hybrid vigor, even if it is the same breeds. As far as whether a rooster is a strong flock-master or a bit of a wimp has more to do with the individual bird than breed.

disease resistance,
Hatcheries are not breeding for disease resistance. Extremely few breeders are either. They have other things to breed for that are more important to them. A decent hatchery or breeder will eliminate chickens from the breeding program that have genetic defects so that should not be a problem. Strengthening the immune system of your flock has much more to do with how you manage them than anything else. Breed itself is really irrelevant.

and balances dual purpose traits.
Not sure what this is supposed to mean. Eggs versus meat maybe? Most hatcheries are going to provide roosters more geared toward egg-laying genetically. Not because they are specifically selecting for that (though some are) but because the hens that lay the most eggs provide most of the hatched chicks so egg-laying is enhanced genetically. Sort of natural selection. While most hatcheries are going to use the SOP to select which chickens to keep as breeders the method they use for mating (pen breeding method) the results for meat qualities are more random.

2. Good flock leadership and alertness for stronger free ranging instincts
Breed is not really relevant for dual purpose for these traits. It could be for some of the decorative breeds. Whether hatchery birds or ones that I hatch myself I find it depends on the individual. Some of any breed are good at this, some are not.

Breed does have a lot to do with expected size, egg laying, comb type (for your cold winters), and some other things you might consider important. Maybe even color. My suggestion is to look at what is available and make a suggestion on those traits, not any of the others. Hatcheries generally do not select which chickens get to breed based on the traits you are looking for.

When I get a new cockerel to become my flock master I order 15 to 20 cockerels. I eat the ones that don't measure up and usually wind up with two or three that pretty much suit my goals. Either will usually be a good choice. The vast amount of the others aren't that suitable.

Good luck!
 
I have about an acre of mowed fenced in range, with many trees and bushes (mostly fruit for the chickens and my family). There are quite a few areas for the birds to run to and hide but many of the trees and bushes have been planted within the last 5 years, so they have some growing to do.

I free feed my flock inside the coop, most birds spend the day outside foraging for what they can find in my compost, grass, and mulched areas. I'm in growing zone 5b, so there is only so much food for the birds much of the year. I want the birds to find as much food on their own as possible, I can't really say a percentage as it varies from season to season. For reference, my 40 birds (chickens and guinea) eat about 50 pounds of bagged pellets a week during the summer, and it doubles in the winter.
72,
Are you losing any guineas to hawks?
My concern is you have trained a family of hawks to feed on your free ranging flock.
So my suggestion is to reduce your flock size and if you are going to continue to free range, introduce Dark Cornish to your flock. Get rid of white as well as other light colored birds so they are not targets for flying hawks.
As @Ridgerunner said, hatcheries are not breeding chickens for the type hardiness you are looking for.
Dark Cornish are available from Murray McMurray according to their web page, not sure about others.
I had DC years ago, they're not lap birds, mediocre layers, some were broody, so we got rid of them because we want friendlier birds.
JMO
 
You insights are much appreciated Ridgerunner.

Since hatcheries seem to be more concerned with traits such as only egg laying only and other traits that I'm not necessarily looking for, I'm going to look for a local breeder of dual purpose (eggs and meat) heritage breeds.

I like the idea of buying many male chicks, then weed them out until I get the best remaining flock masters. My concern with having so many cockerels would be for my hens. All these young cockerels running around trying to mate with everyone and everything. How would you protect the hens?
Also, how do you chose which cockerels to get rid of and keep? And at what age do you make the decision to cull the poor flock masters?
 

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