I hung back, because from person to person, breed choice is a HUGELY personal issue.
But, I'm a big mouth. Don't get PUPPIES. Get PUPPY.
Puppy needs to bond to you and your animals, not another puppy. Puppies raised together at the same time/same approximate age tend to overbond to each other and ignore the humans and human preferences (after all you all are gone for MOST of the day and they'll be together learning to be dogs-without-human-guidance all day. BAD IDEA. Unguided dogs become pure dogs. Dogs that consider dogs first, do dog things first. Dog things like bark, dig, chew and learn chase and territory things FROM each other. Oh such a bad idea.
While some people have done it with success. Most people end up getting rid of one or both about the time they hit teens. Never understanding that they did it to themselves.
Whenever possible it's better to stagger young dogs at about a year to two apart. They'll still bond, but they'll bond to you FIRST and your STOCK first. Big! Important JUJU.
As to Catahoulas as a choice ermmmm NO. The majority of this breed are hard headed, territorial (may bite strangers and fast moving kids/teenagers invited over for the day) and stock hard (aka makes HOLES in stock). Good for handling PIGS is not so good for chickens, children or softer stock. In inexperienced hands they will bite family, a Catahoula never forgets.
Irish Wolfhounds are a SIGHT HUNTING BREED. The majority of IW's in first homes die chasing something mindlessly until they cross a road. They also have SIGNIFICANT and DURABLE PREY DRIVE and were never created to be safe around livestock. Don't get sight hunters bred for a thousand years to hunt what runs for a home with livestock unless you plan on it living on leash forever.
The Drovers and Herders and Livestock Guardian breeds are better choices. But yes, Pyrs and some of the LGDs will absolutely totally leave property to drive off "threats".
Some bird dog breeds can work out with proper training and are safer around children but hyper hyper as youths - meaning huge exercise needs.
I'd HIGHLY recommend STANDARD POODLES for anyone who has the money for the grooming. This highly intelligent breed thrives on obedience, has a neat and sensitive manner indoors, is watchful without being aggressive, large enough to drive off problem dogs and coyotes and a generally soft mouth. (Ask NinjaPoodle LOL) My next purebred is a Std Poodle and I love to death my German Shepherds. I'll always have a shepherd but standards are easier to train, less hyper as long as they get good activity and easy companionable animals. Clipped short and groomed regularly (not all the poufy matty stuff on them) Poos are easy maintenance, and that coat doesn't shed on the floor either. A big bonus.
German Shepherds/labs/goldens - common choices can be good dogs, are hyper as youths, may be found on kitchen counters, eat garbage at most opportunities and will BOUNCE on top of YOU and the KIDS when they're young. More bounce, run and jump depending on how little exercise and training they get. Some can chew ceilings and eat patios. A tied OUT German Shepherd will become territorial.
A big part of it is training and exercise, no exercise (even if loose on two acres) and those breeds may get creative about amusing themselves. Most are relinquished for that very reason at around two, if not earlier.
Sight hounds and terriers are RARELY good choices around stock.
Hard dogs, like pig dogs, primitives like some of the other mountain/culture/cur bred dogs can be significant risks because those breeding them, don't breed them for family life, for soft stock, or for health or longevity, or for living in close neighborhoods with public traffic. Some work out, most put holes in things.
Any one individual dog of any breed may work out because individuals are just that.
But choosing from the right group is more likely to set you up for success. Especially if you have limited training experience.
One thing that helps is to go to breed websites - their national clubs. The PYR site and the LGD site do list the pros and cons of their breeds. Believe BOTH.
It's always better to buy or adopt from someone working their dogs where you can. A pup with parents ALREADY doing what you want yours to do - is like starting with show quality chicken eggs. You have a better chance of getting a good result. You know it's parent could lay an egg and that it's parent actually did win shows. Good start.
From champion lines - bleagh - some dog in the background was pretty. You are going to LIVE with a dog you want sound around stock and maybe children.
From working in the same field - yay- already has parents proven safe around stock. Yay.
Already exposed to stock -big yay!
Already exposed to children is also helpful even if you don't have any - accidental meetings with kids happen.
If you plan on a part indoor dog. Please do yourself a favor and get a home raised pup. Barn/yard/kennel raised pups are behind the curve learning to live indoors.
If you want an OUTDOOR pup, get one reared outdoors with stock.
I love mutts. I have THREE. I don't suggest mutts for "purposes" because MOST people don't know how to test pups and PUPPIES never totally reflect their mature genetic temperament. Mutts make great pets, can be good stock animals. But it's a gamble, that even I as a long time professional in the field don't take.
If purpose, then buy/adopt purpose bred dogs. But don't shoot yourself by trying a hunting terrier (also a purpose) with your chickens. LOL that would be Cross Purposes and a painful lesson.
Thanks for ASKING first.