Best Fr-hens and coop bullies!

[rosemarythyme]

If you are fine with them free ranging all day, you might want to consider renovating the mini coop/mini run into a larger coop to help make peace in there.

To turn it from 2 small "boxes" (tiny coop above tiny run) into 1 bigger "box" you'll want to remove as much of the inside coop wall as possible, plus the floor. Take out the old roosts too.

Nests might be able to stay as is, or may need to be relocated elsewhere or replaced - depends on the structure of the coop and how things inside stack up once done.

Run a new roost(s) lengthwise or widthwise across the newly open space, depending on how much roost is needed. Ideally you’d like 12” per bird but 10” can suffice in many cases.

Board up some of the external wire walls so that the roost area is protected from winds and rain. Do NOT fully cover up all the wire, you need ventilation and natural light, so at the very least a few inches under the roofline should remain open. If your climate allows for it, you can leave entire walls open with just the mesh, or make it convertible for the season by covering up open walls for winter, and then uncovering for summer.

Example of a modified prefab: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/my-renovated-prefab-coop.1440258/

 

[InNC]

If you are fine with them free ranging all day, you might want to consider renovating the mini coop/mini run into a larger coop to help make peace in there.

To turn it from 2 small "boxes" (tiny coop above tiny run) into 1 bigger "box" you'll want to remove as much of the inside coop wall as possible, plus the floor. Take out the old roosts too.

Nests might be able to stay as is, or may need to be relocated elsewhere or replaced - depends on the structure of the coop and how things inside stack up once done.

Run a new roost(s) lengthwise or widthwise across the newly open space, depending on how much roost is needed. Ideally you’d like 12” per bird but 10” can suffice in many cases.

Board up some of the external wire walls so that the roost area is protected from winds and rain. Do NOT fully cover up all the wire, you need ventilation and natural light, so at the very least a few inches under the roofline should remain open. If your climate allows for it, you can leave entire walls open with just the mesh, or make it convertible for the season by covering up open walls for winter, and then uncovering for summer.

Example of a modified prefab: https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/my-renovated-prefab-coop.1440258/

That's pretty neat!! Thank you.

 

[3KillerBs]

t also upsets me because I saved up for a long time to get the coop that was for "6-8 chickens" (according to its description on the farm supply site). I thought the run looked small so I doubled it.

Yes, it's terrible that the manufacturers engage in this deceptive practice.

It's not *exactly* fraud because they base their numbers on legal requirements for commercial birds, but it's not at all conducive to a healthy and happy flock experience over the long term.

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

Many people have successfully modified their prefabs coop-and-run combo into one more adequate coop. Another issue with these coops is that they are usually ill-ventilated and can turn into absolute rotisseries in the summer.

Repecka Illustrates Coop Ventilation

 

[InNC]

Yes, it's terrible that the manufacturers engage in this deceptive practice.

It's not *exactly* fraud because they base their numbers on legal requirements for commercial birds, but it's not at all conducive to a healthy and happy flock experience over the long term.

The Usual Guidelines

For each adult, standard-sized hen you need:

• 4 square feet in the coop (.37 square meters)
• 10 square feet in the run (.93 square meters),
• 1 linear foot of roost (.3 meters),
• 1/4 of a nest box,
• And 1 square foot (.09 square meters) of permanent, 24/7/365 ventilation, preferably located over the birds' heads when they're sitting on the roost.

Many people have successfully modified their prefabs coop-and-run combo into one more adequate coop. Another issue with these coops is that they are usually ill-ventilated and can turn into absolute rotisseries in the summer.

Repecka Illustrates Coop Ventilation

The pictures can be quite deceptive too. When I was coop shopping I'd see a photo of 4 chickens in a run, but looking at the dimensions ..well, that just wasn't possible. (I would recommend, to anyone shopping, NOT to go by the photos. Rely on a measuring tape instead.
. I agree with the ventilation issue as well. I set mine up under a large mulberry tree (they get snacks and shade). Luckily i live near the coast with a constant breeze, without that it would be stifling hot in the summer.
Thank you for your insight!

 

[3KillerBs]

The pictures can be quite deceptive too. When I was coop shopping I'd see a photo of 4 chickens in a run, but looking at the dimensions ..well, that just wasn't possible. (I would recommend, to anyone shopping, NOT to go by the photos. Rely on a measuring tape instead.

Last year someone caught one of the prefab manufacturers using toy chickens in the photo.