Best protein amount (for less smell)

Emmyjim

Chirping
Nov 18, 2021
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What is the correct percentage of protein that should be fed for female chickens based on the following ages:

One week old
One month old
Three months old
Six months old
One year old

And is it really true that higher percentage of protein and especially, organic feed, can create smellier cecal poops?
 
You are asking a good question, but no one has provided the necesary grounding for you to phrase it well.

Excess protein is excreted in some form of nitrogen, often as concentrated urates and increased ammonia. Potentially Bad smell. Many Organic feeds are also corn free, soy free, animal protein free, vegan, or any number of other words which appeal to a segment of the population and make the feed appear to be super premium, seemingly justifying the higher price. Because there is so much variation, I hesitate to make broad pronouncements, except to say that they all tend to be low in Methionine, which is the most critical Amino Acid in a young birds life, and many (but certainly not all) are low in Lysine, the second most critical amino acid in a young birds life.

Proteins are made up of amino acids, the exact ratio of which varies considerably. Most plant sources are "incomplete" proteins, meaing they lack adequate amounts of one or more amino acids that animals, such as ourselves or our chickens, need. For poultry purposes, the four most critical Amino Acids, in descending order of importance, are Methionine, Lysine, Threonine, Tryptophan.

Until relatively recently, AA levels could not be quickly, easily, cheaply measured - particularly Methionine - so total protein levels were used as a stand in. The assumption being that if you got enough protein in the daily diet, you would reach your minimum levels of the amino acids you most needed - particularly here in the US, where its relatively cheap to do so because our feed crops are abundant. In the EU, wherethey have much less land available (and largely less suitable lands) for feed crops, they have made due with much lower levels of protein supplimented with synthetic amino acids in the past two decades or more. Large scale US producers are starting to follow that trend, to reduce costs associated with that excess nitrogen in their operations, but that hasn't trickled down thru the feed supply for us, and there's a contrary movement here looking to eliminate all synthetic amino acids supplimentation.

Our birds' needs do vary as they age, and also based on breed and gender - but its poorly studied outside of commercial broilers and commercial layers. The good news is that the studies are useful for making some broad assumptions about our home-based, largely non-commercial flocks, that the variations are largely not great between studies, and that feeding an excess is (apart from price - protein is relatively expensive) generally not harmful, certainly at the levels we are likely to find in the typical feed bag.

So. You can do perfectly well with a surface understanding and some general advice - which will put you well above the knowledge of most from the 60s, 70s, 80s.

I usually recommend that the typical backyard owner, of the typical backyard flock, with typical backyard management practices feed an All Flock/Flock Raiser* type crumble to all their birds, all their lives, with free choice grit, oyster shell, and fresh clean water available at all times in seperate dishes. Without regard to age, gender, onset of of lay, condition of molt, etc.

*Essentially an 18-20% protein, 3.5% fat+/-, 1.5% calcium +/-, 3.5% fiber +/- feed, preferably with about .6% Phosphorus, at least .35% Methionine, and .7% Lysine.

Because its easy for you, and its good nutrition for them.

All of my adult birds - chickens and ducks - get exactly the same feed, which happens to be 20% protein. I feed my youngsters a higher protein mix for their first 6-8 weeks (basically, until they join the adult flock) as I have facilites to separate the flocks. My reasons for that are complicated, its not something I recommend for everyone. But All Flock, all the time, for all the birds of all the genders is a safe and easy way to raise chickens, ducks, geese. Doing something different has limited benefits in limited conditions, and should only be considered after weighing all practical options.

My flock is in my Sig, below. You can see the results of me feed regimen here.

Or you can get down into the weeds, and play at the levels of individual amino acid requirements based on age, gender, type (to the extent that it has been studied, or can be reasonably inferred from study), understanding that just because you know a thing does not mean that you wll be able to buy the optimum thing off the shelf at the local feed store.

Example Here. You may find that useful. Apologies for tone of that post, I was responding to another who held themselves out as some sort of authority, yet their claims appeared overblown, and their evidence "lacking". I don't find that to benefit others who come to BYC looking for solid information, and honestly, it was very early this AM, I've not had enough sleep, I was decaffeinated and *annoyed*. Also, I don't play well with others. Explanation, not excuse.

If you want to get to that level, the first two sources I linked will help, and I'd be happy (to the extent of my limited knowledge - I'm not an expert, merely well read) to help with any further questions you might have.
 
U might be caffiene deprived, but right on with more detail than I can muster, especially this early in the morning!
If meat proteins were less expensive, they might show up in poultry diets here, in spite of the fantasy 'vegetarian fed' and specific ingredient free labels that are now so popular. And don't start on the pet dog and cat ingredient madness!
Mary
 
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U might be caffiene deprived, but right on with more detail than I can muster, especially this early in the morning!
If meat proteins were less expensive, they might show up in poultry diets here, in spite of the fantasy 'vegetarian fed' and specific ingredient free labels that are now so popular. And don't start on the pet dog and cat ingredient madness!
Mary

We've actually started making our own dog foods (well, treats, technically) from some of our poultry and goat byproducts for our (one) diabetic and (both) aging dogs, based on some of what I've learned about feeding chickens - because the Hills Rx Diet feed for them was killing the budget (as is the insulin, but that they can't do without). But I'm not confident enough in it to share the recipe and suggest others do the same.

Its mostly heart, liver, gizzard (because my wife can only eat so much pate), pasted with mixed frozen veggies (corn, carrot, peas), stabilized with some oats (popular in foods for diabetics of all species), an egg or two (depending on quantity), then spread like a brownie and baked in trays till dry.

The dog's blood work is good, his insulin needs aren't increasing, and his weight is stable in the vet desired range. So, anecdotally, I'm not making things worse, ands we've been able to go back to a conventional weight control, off the shelf dog food that isn't $2+/lb...
 
And is it really true that higher percentage of protein and especially, organic feed, can create smellier cecal poops?
I wouldn't know about protein percentage and smell as like the other posters, I have only fed 18-20% all flock to my birds. But if you keep your coop and run clean (scoop sand at least once daily or use deep litter/bedding - I have both), keep it dry, and have the appropriate amount of birds for your space (perhaps the most important factor)- there should be minimal lingering smell from your flock🙂 Except of course immediately after a cecal poop😉
 

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