⠀ Best thing for getting rid of roundworms in chickens & also preventing??

[dfalchek]

(I'm glad I found this thread). I picked up some Durvet Strike III and I see one bag will treat 50 lb of feed. My is flock is five hens. How much treated feed constitutes a dose? This is unclear from the packaging.

Also, can someone lay out how to take something like Valbazen for goats or Ivermectin for cattle and dose it properly for a chicken? I'd try it, but I can find a clear, reliable how-to for this off-label use and misdosing something like that kill an animal. (I have a scientist in the house, so I can get a micro-pipette and math skills if needed).

Right now I'm rotating Wazine with Strike III (Hygromycin).

Thanks,

Dave

 

[dawg53]

(I'm glad I found this thread). I picked up some Durvet Strike III and I see one bag will treat 50 lb of feed. My is flock is five hens. How much treated feed constitutes a dose? This is unclear from the packaging.

Also, can someone lay out how to take something like Valbazen for goats or Ivermectin for cattle and dose it properly for a chicken? I'd try it, but I can find a clear, reliable how-to for this off-label use and misdosing something like that kill an animal. (I have a scientist in the house, so I can get a micro-pipette and math skills if needed).

Right now I'm rotating Wazine with Strike III (Hygromycin).

Thanks,

Dave

Here's the directions for the Durvet strike lll. It is the same thing as the Rooster Booster triple action multi wormer:
http://www.jefferspet.com/products/triple-action-multi-wormer
Poultry worms have built resistance to ivermectin due to its overuse as a miteacide in poultry. I dont use it anymore. Use a syringe without a needle to administer valbazen. Dosage is 1/2cc given orally undiluted to each standard size chicken, 1/4cc given orally undiluted to smaller birds. Redose again in 10 days.
You can use safeguard liquid goat wormer. Use a syringe without a needle to administer orally undiluted. Dosage is 1cc for giants, 3/4cc for large fowl, 1/2cc for standard size, 1/4cc for smaller birds. Dose birds 5 days straight. That is all.
Both are very safe and effective wormers. I've used them enough to know. Valbazen should be used as a first time wormer. It slowly kills worms over several days preventing intestinal blockage which can cause toxic dead worm overload, which may kill a chicken.

 

[dfalchek]

Thanks, man. Everything I need to know in one post. So medicated feed for five days -- great.

One thing... I thought Ivermectin came in a pour-on that could be put on the chicken's back. Just like the stuff we used on our dogs?

DF

 

[enola]

What is the egg withdrawal for Durvet?

 

[dawg53]

What is the egg withdrawal for Durvet?

Three day slaughter withdrawal only.

 

[Eradicator]

I'm sure I could dig something up.

 

[City farm]

 
(I'm glad I found this thread). I picked up some Durvet Strike III and I see one bag will treat 50 lb of feed. My is flock is five hens. How much treated feed constitutes a dose? This is unclear from the packaging.

Also, can someone lay out how to take something like Valbazen for goats or Ivermectin for cattle and dose it properly for a chicken? I'd try it, but I can find a clear, reliable how-to for this off-label use and misdosing something like that kill an animal. (I have a scientist in the house, so I can get a micro-pipette and math skills if needed). 

Right now I'm rotating Wazine with Strike III (Hygromycin).

Thanks,

Dave  

Here's the directions for the Durvet strike lll. It is the same thing as the Rooster Booster triple action multi wormer:
http://www.jefferspet.com/products/triple-action-multi-wormer
Poultry worms have built resistance to ivermectin due to its overuse as a miteacide in poultry. I dont use it anymore.  Use a syringe without a needle to administer valbazen. Dosage is 1/2cc given orally undiluted to each standard size chicken, 1/4cc given orally undiluted to smaller birds. Redose again in 10 days.
You can use safeguard liquid goat wormer. Use a syringe without a needle to administer orally undiluted. Dosage is 1cc for giants, 3/4cc for large fowl, 1/2cc for standard size, 1/4cc for smaller birds. Dose birds 5 days straight. That is all.
Both are very safe and effective wormers. I've used them enough to know. Valbazen should be used as a first time wormer. It slowly kills worms over several days preventing intestinal blockage which can cause toxic dead worm overload, which may kill a chicken.

I can vouch for intestinal blockage.. Long story.. We had some new chickens that were teen's.. Never grew, finally did a necropsy on a sick one, found roundworms.. Photo of the necropsy are on @casportpony various necropsy thread..
We treated the flock with wazine 17.. That is all our feed store had at the moment.. About I week later saw our Bresse not doing good at all.. She had a cough/sneeze the day before.. Did a necropsy and in her gizzard were so many dead roundworms. I had to pull apart them.. Those photo's are not up yet..
In the beggining I thought they had cocci, treated. Then thought they had mites treated, then a cough, ugh!! Treated. Finally did a necropsy found roundworms.. It took me to long to find out what was wrong for a few of our girl's.. They did not have cocci, but I did see some blood, come to find out it was normal poo.. At first I thought it was normal, I second guess myself in a moment of wanting to help our girl's..
On the 2nd necropsy, the roundworms were 1/2 alive. So I treated again.. 1/2 alive is the only way I can explain the way they moved & they were different from the the first one's we found..
Also, we did treat for round worms with in 12 month's.. They only thing I can think of is we have duck's & sometimes they co mingle.. & or the wild bird's
that started a nest in our tree, they are the ringtail dove's..

 

[goosegirl490123]

Hi I was wondering what to do if my ducklings have mites?
Also what should I feed my geese and ducks my geese are 7 months and have just started laying my ducks are 2-3 years
they are white Chinese so how big should the eggs be?

Also is there anything I need to know about ducks and I geese I'm only 11 and still am unsure about a lot regarding poultry.

Ruby

 

[mainechicklet]

Hi Enola, I am not sure if I can help put the chemistry into words for you. but I will try!

Nutshell: The hens eat nuggets of calcium carbonate where the calcium is bound to a carbonate molecule. When it is tightly bound, the Calcium is not able to be taken up into the bloodstream. The body needs the ion form of the Calcium in order to absorb it. In a solution (ie mixed with water in the gut) and especially in the presence of an acid, the Hydrogen in the acid competes for a binding site with Calcium that now has a looser bond with the carbonate (about 14% of the calcium will be unlocked from the carbonate and be in the form of an ion when it is in the wet state), making that Calcium bioavailable to be absorbed into the bloodstream.

More detail:
The body has to maintain an acid-base balance and generally is very slightly basic/alkaline. Apple Cider vinegar is an acid. It contains acetic acid (as do all other forms of vinegars). Calcium is generally consumed in the form of calcium carbonate, and is written Ca2CO3, meaning it has 2 calcium atoms, 1 carbon atom and 3 oxygen atoms and the calcium is bound to the carbonate (CO3) because they share electrons back and forth. When Calcium carbonate goes into a solution of water, some of the calcium disassociates from the carbonate and you have 2 ions: Ca(+2) and 2 of the CO3 (-1) the parenthetical numbers indicate the charge of the ion. In this case, the Calcium ions have lost the electrons (which are negatively charged) hence the + sign, and the Carbonate have temporarily stolen the electrons and have an extra one, thus the - sign. Here is where the vinegar, an acid, comes in. An acid has an excess of hydrogen atoms (they are actually protons) H+. The chemistry in the intestines changes a bit because of this extra H+. Hydrogen has a positive charge just like the Calcium and will compete with the Calcium to bond with the Carbonate, making more unbound Calcium available to be absorbed into the blood stream. There is an equilibrium that needs to be maintained.

This goes for people too. If you are a female and want to increase your calcium consumption, ingesting the calcium in an acid environment such as orange juice, will enhance your absorption of Calcium. If you have indigestion (too much acid in your stomach) you can take an antacid like Tums (containing Calcium carbonate ) or like Rolaids (containing Calcium carbonate and Magnesium hydroxide, another H+ competitor) because the Calcium in those gets switched out for the excessive hydrogen in the stomach and reduces the acidity of the gastric contents.

Important note with regard to acid and eggshell strength:

Interestingly, there is a counter-intuitive problem with weak eggshells in very hot weather that is caused by this acid-base equilibrium and it can be solved by adding a base (antacid) into the hen's diets---so giving hens vinegar during really hot months may actually make their eggshells thinner!

Here's the deal. When its really hot outside, the hens will pant to help cool themselves down. This increased airflow will blow off a little extra CO2. When the CO2 is removed from the body, it actually changes the acid-base balance and makes the hens a little alkalotic because the carbonic acid buffering system gets thrown off when the CO2 gas is removed from the system. The recommendation is to actually add a little bicarbonate of soda into the diet to offset the Carbon dioxide loss. Connecting the dots--if you have problems with thinner shells in the summer, it would be best to avoid adding extra acid into the system as it could exacerbate the problem.

References for the thinner eggshell:
http://www.thepoultrysite.com/articles/1003/factors-influencing-shell-quality/ I recommend reading section i, then going to the three part series of articles referenced--most of the relevant information is in the 2nd and 3rd parts.

Here is an an older article that might be easier to read since its more specific to just the acid-base balance:
http://www.fmcchemicals.com/Portals/chem/Content/Docs/Markets/Animal/s-carb2.pdf

In case you are super geeky, here is a link that discusses the chemical equations I neglected to put into my explanation:
http://ion.chem.usu.edu/~sbialkow/Classes/3600/Overheads/Carbonate/CO2.html

tmi?

Fabulous answer!

 

[shortgrass]

Awesome info @dretd! Awesome, awesome awesome!

I don't use chemical wormers. And I'm not getting into the DE discussion, but I will mention that it's an excellent source of trace minerals, and I add it to my feed, regardless of worms

I could add to what dretd mentions about absorption, but obviously, I don't need to...

I'll add a tidbit about microbes and enzymes though

Not only is PH and absorption critical to keep immunity up, but the microbes and enzymes in a chicken gut are there to help prevent pathogens and parasites.

I don't have the patience with my phone to write a beautifully descriptive narrative like the one above lol, but in essence, wormers are overused to the point that the soil microbes are killed by the wormer too, leading to a horrible catch 22 of cycling through wormers and destroying that delicate ecosystem.

Curcubits(pumpkins, squash, etc) have been shown to kill worm larvae at rates of up to 99% eradication.
http://www.cabdirect.org/abstracts/19540800741.html;jsessionid=F778EBA23FF126D0F1FB27F2F5B2423D

Garlic is another one; its also antifungal and antiviral, so it aids immune response.

http://www.cabdirect.org/abstracts/20000810165.html

Here's an excellent PDF on wormwood, my final secret ingredient lol
This one is also pretty specific, as its comparing the extract with albendazole, so its a side by side study
http://www.academicjournals.org/app/webroot/article/article1383212166_Seddiek et al.pdf

And another link. This one is all around general organic worming options.

http://link.springer.com/article/10.1186/1746-4269-7-21

I have never wormed my chickens with chemical wormers, and never will. It's uneccesary and does more damage than good IMO. Their health is in my hands, and I'd rather they have the immune system to fight off pathogens, and they can't do that if I'm constantly putting chemicals in them.

That and they're organic

Edit* autocorrect