Bob Blosl's Heritage Large Fowl Thread

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The other weekend I was explaining to a new friend about the importance of breeding from hens and COCK birds and looked at a class of three white rock bantam hens and said to him look at this little girl. See how she still has her pullet shape and look. That's the kind of female you want in your breeding pen.

Is this why some hens don't do well at the shows? This is good information to know. I guess I'm going to have to start keeping a photo journal so I can see the difference. Can you explain further on how this type of hen is better than a hen who hasn't kept her pullet type? I have wondered why you have made statements like "To breed from birds which are two years old, you watch a pullet to see if she loses her type after her first big molt" and have been intending to ask about that but now you've said this and I'm thinking its the same statement? I've tried to breed from 2 year old birds but didn't realize that THIS is what I'm looking for?

This was a trick that Harold Tompkins used in breeding R I Reds in the 1950s. I think he felt a hen two or three years old would produce a better chick than a pullet. One thing as a old breeder from 1912 to 1957 he learned one thing. If you have one hundred pullets and they all are keepers good show birds will they still look like a pullet when they go through a molt.

What he would do is have flock mattings of say 25 top pullets and put three killer males in the matting. He might have four or eight mattings like this to supply his chick and egg sales in the late 40s and 50s. I mean he sold chicks like you can not be leave per year. Then when they would go through a molt he would look them all over and say out of 100 keep the ten best that molts back not only with good type like a pullet but good even dark color. Then he may keep forty hens like this show them sell a few maybe and then have five good females in a pen with a cock bird who also came back even in color with that nice cockerel type. I had a white rock hen that was once five years old that had this classic look.

I called this the fountain of youth look. I would then line breed her to her sons and I produced three females that looked like here over ten years.

Just about three weeks ago I was at a guys house who has some of my white rocks he got from a friend who sold a friend some birds. There was a hen two years old that came out of the hen house and BAM there she was. I call it the Raquel Welch look. She is one person who kept her youthful look at a older age. Its just a genetic thing you should try for.

Many can not do this and breed from pullets and cockerels each year. But the test of a strain is look at the old birds. When you see a three to four year old bird that looks fantastic and true to type and color for the breed this is what I am talking about. Remember only maybe one in 500 does this so you don't have to do this. But you get a nicer bird in the long run and that is what I am doing.
 
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This is the kind of great stuff, though, that requires considering one's set up. This demands an important level of infrastructure. In order to do this well, one can't have a whole handful of breeds. We are now down to two breeds of chicken: White Dorkings and Rose Comb Anconas, nothing but. It was hard to give up some of the other birds, but now there is infrastructure a plenty to meet the birds' needs at each juncture and allow for the kind of raising, selecting, pairing and breeding that is necessary to restore and promote heritage, Standard-bred fowl.

I have been thinking about the terminological implications of the word "preservation"; we often speak about preserving heritage fowl, but the difficulty with that is it's facing the past and can give an impression of sedentariness. The notions of "restoration" and "promotion" speak of healing, ordering and moving forward. One can "preserve" dozens of breeds of fowl, but one cannot restore nor promote more than one's infrastructure permits in way of adequate housing at every step of the way.
 
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I still think you have to be a person who has a Visual type Personality to master this gift. I had a guy who asked me a question a few months ago and my wife said you explained it good enough that a 6th grader could understand it but he needs pictures to figure out how to do this or build it.
Snipped fr brevity)
My point in all of this to be a good breeder you have to visualize into the future.
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This reminds me of the first Collie National Specialty I went to in 1996. I decided to go out thru the rows with no expectations and see if any particular collie(s) qualities jumped out at me. Suddenly, in one of many rows of pens containing more than 900 collies both rough and smooth, there was this sable smooth dog. He looked up at me and it was just all there. Grace, symmetry, proportion. Balance. This boy just "filled the eye" as all well balanced animals will do.
I went back to the breeder who had come with me and said, "You have to see this boy! He's special." She wasn't impressed and didn't go. Then he won his class and still she wasn't impressed enough to go see him. Then he won Winner's Dog and finally she was impressed enough to go see him. At the end of the day, he walked away with Best of Breed. The first smooth to take the National since the 1970's.
Best,
Karen
 
Part of the process here was developing a plan for the expansion needed to support the breeding plan and the pens for both breeding, brooding, growing out the juveniles while maintaining the layer flock and breeders not yet set up in breeding pens.

What started out 16 years ago when we moved to the farm was my hen house in the corner of the barn and all my layers free ranging daily. Then hubby and his brother welded up a run the length of the 60 foot barn so my birds could be outside yet protected when we were at work.
Once we retired, I was able to spend more time on the herd and my garden and my flock. I was able to add nice Columbian Wyandotte juveniles and a few Cochins to my flock and was impressed with both breeds.

Luckily I found a friend here who had a great line of CW and I began purchasing his juveniles. His birds were purchased from a long time CW breeder in Oklahoma and my friend had had them for 10 years himself both breeding and showing them. The Cochins have come from another noted Oklahoma Cochin breeder thru eggs purchased from his pens and a few hens. And another breeder here on BYC had eggs to sell from his flock.

For three years, I have been working with these two breeds, learning as I go from knowledgeable folks here, research and reading books, going to shows and developing a mentorship with my CW source. We have 260 acres for the cattle ranch, so I have about a half acre set aside for the flock near the house and garden.

This year hubby doubled my space in the barn to house a brooder room and I have built additional pens. The breeding pens are 6x12 with small coops to hold 4 to 6 birds. Another pen is 14 x 16 for the CW cock and his 11 hens with a coop. There are additional pens set up for juveniles and Im in the process now of building a 6 x 8 coop for juveniles that will go outside in the next few weeks.

Hatching about 50 chicks for each breeding pen beginning in January has begun filling the brooder boxes and the brooder room. The process of selection has begun now. Four pens have reached the 50 mark and several new breedings are now being hatched. Toe punching and record keeping has been essential.

I'm having so much fun and enjoy spending time just studying the young birds and noting strength and weaknesses.

Thank you so much for the encouragement offered here. The insight shared by so many of you has helped educate countless folks...including me.
 
Do you have any pictures of your Ancona breeder birds for this year? I got started in them last fall, and would love to see what you have.
This is the kind of great stuff, though, that requires considering one's set up. This demands an important level of infrastructure. In order to do this well, one can't have a whole handful of breeds. We are now down to two breeds of chicken: White Dorkings and Rose Comb Anconas, nothing but. It was hard to give up some of the other birds, but now there is infrastructure a plenty to meet the birds' needs at each juncture and allow for the kind of raising, selecting, pairing and breeding that is necessary to restore and promote heritage, Standard-bred fowl.

I have been thinking about the terminological implications of the word "preservation"; we often speak about preserving heritage fowl, but the difficulty with that is it's facing the past and can give an impression of sedentariness. The notions of "restoration" and "promotion" speak of healing, ordering and moving forward. One can "preserve" dozens of breeds of fowl, but one cannot restore nor promote more than one's infrastructure permits in way of adequate housing at every step of the way.
 
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I have searched online and it appears that there is not a true breed club for the awesome New Hampshire...if I am wrong, please let me know.

Has anyone given thought to creating one? I cross posted in the German New Hampshire thread as well.

Happy Easter,
Cindy
 
Ok folks....I need some help. I have a broody Wyandotte that was due to hatch her first clutch today (Easter Sunday) and she was sitting on 6 Col Rocks and 2 BLRWs. When I got up this morning I went out to check on her, and right outside the box was a dead chick. It looked as though she had removed it. I can't be 100% certain, but it looked as if the chick was born with intestines on the outside.

As of tonight, she seems to be sitting tight on all the others that had hatched

Will a broody hen remove a chick that she knows won't survive?? I've only had one other broody do similar things and she killed each chick as it hatched....I never allowed her to set on eggs again. Hoping I don't have a similar problem brewing

Anyone with "broody advise" they can share?

Thanks
 
Ok folks....I need some help. I have a broody Wyandotte that was due to hatch her first clutch today (Easter Sunday) and she was sitting on 6 Col Rocks and 2 BLRWs. When I got up this morning I went out to check on her, and right outside the box was a dead chick. It looked as though she had removed it. I can't be 100% certain, but it looked as if the chick was born with intestines on the outside.

As of tonight, she seems to be sitting tight on all the others that had hatched

Will a broody hen remove a chick that she knows won't survive?? I've only had one other broody do similar things and she killed each chick as it hatched....I never allowed her to set on eggs again. Hoping I don't have a similar problem brewing

Anyone with "broody advise" they can share?

Thanks
A good broody will cull a sick chick, just as a mother cat will. Is she in a good quiet place? Never had a SL WY that was a bad mother.Can the chicks get out of the box to follow her to food and water? Can they get back in again? If not mound up some straw into a ramp.

Just keep an eye on her if it is her first clutch.
 
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