Bob Blosl's Heritage Large Fowl Thread

[Chloe77]

WHEW!

 

[Robert Blosl]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Happy Chooks


Hope you guys don't mind me popping in here. I've been lurking here to learn from you long time breeders. I don't have "heritage" birds, but I do have similar issues in my barnevelder flock. They were once dual purpose, but their laying ability has suffered considerably. It is one thing I'm hoping to improve it as I work with them.

From what I understand, Happy Chooks, if part of your selection strategy is to feel the frames on the birds you choose to breed, looking specifically for abdominal capacity, ie., wide spaces between the pubic bones as well as between the pubic bones and the end of the breast bone/ in addition the amount of space between the legs, then you can increase their ability to lay more eggs. You should look for these qualities not only on your hens but your roosters as well. Also, Bob was saying something a while back about your earliest feathering chicks being the ones which will be the best layers. This selection should be added to the process as well.

I for one would like my birds to at least pay part of their keep. I know it would make my husband happier! Isn't there a happy medium where we can select for capacity without sacrificing type in our respective breeds?

I was not referring to you. Heck you got one of the hardest breeds on this tread to maintain. Also, your birds should lay very well and even have some meat on their bones to eat for the extras you don't keep. I was referring to some one who just joined this tread a few days ago. Sorry if you feel I was pointing at you. Heck you are one of the chosen ones in my book. Like I said the Blue color pattern like yours are super hard to breed many had to double mait them to have any good birds to show. Also, your bird you pictured is a great looking bird.

There are folks who come on here who want to much from these old breeds and that is the mental condition of raising back yard birds. However, if you raised back yard feed store chickens for say three to five years and are very good at raising them you have one half of the battle won. Learn how to hatch them then breeding them will come latter.

Also, for you who want Old Time breeds tell us where you live and what breeds you would like. We have plenty of sources who have contacts with the top breeders or maybe some of their customers from a year or two ago.

bob

 

[fowlman01]

I wondered that SAME thing, Lacy! Mareks, I heard, was horrible this year. But more than likely, there were some that made it through exposure and weren't even affected - would those not be the ones that you'd want to use when breeding for resistance? That must have been one strong bird to live through Mareks - it's a horrible disease to be sure. Darn wild birds!

Once you have flock resistance to Mareks you stop having horrible Mareks years. I stopped vaccinating for it 35 years ago.

Walt

 

[Chris09]

Its taking my reds forever to get filled out. They are around 7 months old and are just starting to look good. Good things come to those who wait.

Quote: This is so very true when it comes to Heritage Breeds.

My Reds at 7 to 9 months are still very gamey' looking and don't start looking like a good Red until they are around 11 months.


Chris

 

[FOGELLY]

I have a couple Heritage RIR hens that are around 4 years old. They still look very good and lay 3 or so eggs a week.
If they were the production Reds we used to have they would probably already be dead or burned out.

180-200 eggs a year is fine with me. It is a far cry better than the 80 from those bearded freeloading blue egg layers that my boy thought he just had to have a couple years ago. No offense, they were really nice and pretty too.

Ron

 

[Bentley]

Walt, you are exactly right. Mareks disease is viral and in the Herpes family. Birds that survive a Mareks outbreak will be immune to the disease and they will pass that immunity to their offspring through the egg (Maternal immunity). This will result in a Marek resistant line of birds. The only concern is if other birds are added to the population. While the survivors are immune, they 'can' shed that virus and if other birds on the premisis don't possess that immunity it is possible that you could get another Mareks break in the other birds that are not immune. This does not always happen but it can.

 

[fowlman01]

Walt, you are exactly right. Mareks disease is viral and in the Herpes family. Birds that survive a Mareks outbreak will be immune to the disease and they will pass that immunity to their offspring through the egg (Maternal immunity). This will result in a Marek resistant line of birds. The only concern is if other birds are added to the population. While the survivors are immune, they 'can' shed that virus and if other birds on the premisis don't possess that immunity it is possible that you could get another Mareks break in the other birds that are not immune. This does not always happen but it can.

Mareks seems to be everywhere, so when I noticed that not all chickens were affected, I thought there must be a better way. I show a lot of birds in a lot of places, so I can't have weak birds here. I cull a bird if I even suspect it has something going on. An ax keeps my flock resistant to most things.

Walt

 

[Bentley]

I have seen quite a bit lately too, more than usual. I, too, follow your method in my flocks, if they begin to look suspect and weak, they are disposed of. I believe in this method and will continue with this course both as adults and chicks. I won't baby my birds, I want them hardy. I still believe this is the best course, but I have often wondered if leaving those birds that look suspect to 'get over' what ever it is then let them pass that resistance on to their offspring would work too. Not sure so I stick with what seems to work best.

 

[ashandvine]

I have seen quite a bit lately too, more than usual. I, too, follow your method in my flocks, if they begin to look suspect and weak, they are disposed of. I believe in this method and will continue with this course both as adults and chicks. I won't baby my birds, I want them hardy. I still believe this is the best course, but I have often wondered if leaving those birds that look suspect to 'get over' what ever it is then let them pass that resistance on to their offspring would work too. Not sure so I stick with what seems to work best.

If you cull a suspect bird then how do they ever get to a stage where they develop immunity? Immunity comes at the price of exposure and often survival. If they can't survive the axe they can't survive the 'illness' to develop anything. I am not saying I disagree with your sentiments or methods only that practice would seem to negate, or in the least, hamper, the theory. I wonder if the practice of growing out immunity will work for all things including respiratory issues and all that? Nature would suggest so but I wonder if its a risk I want to take with my birds here and now. Food for thought.

Mr Walt, when you say a bird is 'rangey' what does that mean spelled out? I recall you worked with ducks and chickens? Geese or Turkeys ever? I never see turkeys at shows or fairs.
How are all you folks transporting yourselves and birds to shows across the states? I was picturing the birds in a camper with you but that didn't seem right. On the back seat of a car? Remind me again; the benefit of this showing is? Other than saying you have purdy birds of course. Just fun?

 

[OSUman]

Would anyone be interested in obtaining Lamonas?