Bob Blosl's Heritage Large Fowl Thread

[gjensen]

I was amazed when I foamed my roof, and the underside of my house, that they closed up ALL outside air sources. The chimney effect was cut off. I have saved hundreds of dollars a year since then. You can go into my attic on a 105 degree day, and the attic temps will be in the high 80s.The roof decking is COOL on the underside. This technology is upsetting the applecart about everything we know.The theory is that most attics cooked from the heat buildup on the UNDERSIDE.My attic now feels air conditioned on really hot days.

With chickens, it gets a bit more complicated. We need to exhaust ammonia, and warm moist air.A cupola with a sealed attic above, and a vent below, seems to be the ticket.This will supply a heat release source in the summer also while the roof stays cool./

You are right. It makes a huge difference.

Many of the commercial buildings that we build are done similarly. Not necessarily with spray foam either. The gable roof above the attic space for the building I am building has R30 insulation directly applied to the roof sheathing (which in this case is metal decking on metal truss). Above the insulation is a gypsum product (for other reasons), ice and water shield, then the metal roofing. The roof is not vented.Doesn't need to be for this assembly.

There is not a one size fits all for all assemblies. Building science and theories actually have a bit to it. The industry is constantly evolving. Some is due to good sales efforts by different manufacturers etc.

The largest threat (not necessarily the only threat) to the deterioration of the roof substrate is condensation. When the air in the attic is cooler than the outside air etc. For example when a warm wet front moves in. Condensation will build up under the metal panels and drip. The venting or separation of the roof panels lessens this because it equalizes the temperature under the metal panel to that outside. Another solution is a vapor moisture barrier. In the case of the spray foam insulation, it is not necessary because it has it's own water resistance. In the assembly I have put together on my project we have ice/water shield applied over the gypsum panels.

Cupolas are great on their own. They are even better with bottom ventilation. The draw the cupola has draws in cooler drier air on the bottom and creates it's own current. This draw is more effective when it is not only pulling out, but pulling fresh air in at the bottom where the birds are.

The longer I live in the South the more I realize the best solution is open pens with a wind shield.

 

[pysankigirl]

With Styrofoam yes, closed cell spray foam , no. Apparently studies have been done that show that most roofs degrade from the inside out due to attic temps.Closed cell foam keeps the attic cool, and the metal roofs reflect a lot of heat. The stuff is also VERY fire resistant.

maybe that's what it is, then. our house is a timberframe with stress-skin panels and the roof is 9" of styrofoam with wood on the inside, styrofoam, an air gap, then osb on the outside then felt and shingles. The manufacturers said that if we didn't have that air gap, that we'd be in big trouble.

 

[Yard full o' rocks]

I've recently been asked about my plans for 2013 and breeding season, so I thought I'd post a few pix of the 2 breeder cockerels I'm using this season. I still have a long way to go (especially in the area of color) but these are the two cockerels I kept as breeders for the 2013 season. Saddle and hackle color are weak on both, but they had better type than any of my other choices. Tails on both of these are better than their sire, but still lack enough lift. Back length seems to stay good and front ends are "getting better" but still a long way to go. After the Newnan show, Colby (my 14 yr old) thinks he wants to show a male at Newnan next year....we'll see.

 

[Robert Blosl]

I have a old Lehy Thermometer that came with that unit and its side kick has a wick which is not used. In to days money they are about $75 for a set many of the units had these in the front door window so you could see your temps. I also have a meat thermometer its about $20.00 and is very sensitive I took both of these out side and set them in my pump house on a wall and all three were dead on. So I will have to use these for right now.

My temps at the highest level of the heat cycle is 100.f then it drops down to say 99. then back up. The stupid thermostat comes on about two or three times a minute. I do not have a black box GQF thermostat. I got a unit from Incubators.com and it does not go on and off like they say it should. This unit works a lot like a old fashion wafer unit. Comes on at 99 goes off at say 101. then the average is about 100.

I guess you will just have to see if the chicks hatch early or late.

I was going to buy a new black box Thermostate by GQF at the show but did not see one in stock.

Thanks for the tips.

I think the big problem is not having the original Thermostat that came with the unit. It burned up or went bad about five years ago.

 

[Fred's Hens]

I set my December batch at 99.5
Mind you, this was according to the thermometer that came with the unit. I checked it against a simple WalMart unit and it was within .5 degrees, so I went ahead. Hatch rate was on time and excellent.

The January batch, I decided to set it at 99.9 just to see if would improve anything. Just trying to discover what's best with this unit. My hatch was a tad early and hatch rate went down. I'll be going back to 99.5 on next week's set.

What I learned was this. No matter what this instrument or that instrument says? I'm just going to go with experience, I guess. With THAT particular thermometer, in this unit? I'll set it at 99.5 this next time. As long as I get hatch rates of 80% plus, I'm very content. It's as much art as science.

 

[Texasmja]

I set my December batch at 99.5
Mind you, this was according to the thermometer that came with the unit. I checked it against a simple WalMart unit and it was within .5 degrees, so I went ahead. Hatch rate was on time and excellent.

The January batch, I decided to set it at 99.9 just to see if would improve anything. Just trying to discover what's best with this unit. My hatch was a tad early and hatch rate went down. I'll be going back to 99.5 on next week's set.

What I learned was this. No matter what this instrument or that instrument says? I'm just going to go with experience, I guess. With THAT particular thermometer, in this unit? I'll set it at 99.5 this next time. As long as I get hatch rates of 80% plus, I'm very content. It's as much art as science.

Fred, I had the exact same experience with my Brinsea's. 99.5 is the magic number.

 

[3riverschick]

Hi,
Today was hatch day here. I had a fancy incubation schedule which the girls threw out the window when they decided to go broody. Never did get to see under March, tho her 1/2 sister May proved to be just keeping March company and not sitting eggs. Went out today and there was the most lovely , perfectly marked Light Sussex chick with May watching over it. Had fallen from the nest box and May was right on the job, with Junior looking on. Earlier, yesterday, March kicked an egg out of the box after pecking it. The chick wasn't worthy so she culled it, good girl. There must still be eggs under March because she is just nailed to that nest, VBG.
I talked to Walt Boese about how to proceed because I really need more chicks than these girls can give me by brooding their own eggs. So, as soon as all the eggs are hatched and , two days later, we are moving May and Junior to the empty bachelor quarters. Then as May starts to lay , will gather the eggs and use the bator. Will let March raise her chicks. Walt thinks it will make her a superior mother. Then in 5 weeks, We will get her laying again and use the incubator. So that's the new plan. Can't wait till tomorrow to see if there will be more chicks. I think she was sitting on 4-6 eggs, if I am guessing correctly. BTW, what does it mean when your hen "purrs" at you? I
Best Success,
Karen

 

[Pozees]

Hi,
Today was hatch day here. I had a fancy incubation schedule which the girls threw out the window when they decided to go broody. Never did get to see under March, tho her 1/2 sister May proved to be just keeping March company and not sitting eggs. Went out today and there was the most lovely , perfectly marked Light Sussex chick with May watching over it. Had fallen from the nest box and May was right on the job, with Junior looking on. Earlier, yesterday, March kicked an egg out of the box after pecking it. The chick wasn't worthy so she culled it, good girl. There must still be eggs under March because she is just nailed to that nest, VBG.
I talked to Walt Boese about how to proceed because I really need more chicks than these girls can give me by brooding their own eggs. So, as soon as all the eggs are hatched and , two days later, we are moving May and Junior to the empty bachelor quarters. Then as May starts to lay , will gather the eggs and use the bator. Will let March raise her chicks. Walt thinks it will make her a superior mother. Then in 5 weeks, We will get her laying again and use the incubator. So that's the new plan. Can't wait till tomorrow to see if there will be more chicks. I think she was sitting on 4-6 eggs, if I am guessing correctly. BTW, what does it mean when your hen "purrs" at you? I
Best Success,
Karen

Yay, baby Sussex!!!!!

 

[galanie]

 BTW, what does it mean when your hen "purrs" at you? I
    Best Success,
 Karen

Usually they are really happy when they purr. There is a low growl that almost sounds like a purr too.

 

[Robert Blosl]

I unplugged my incubator for about three minutes and then turned it back on. The Incubator Warehouse Thermostat reset its self and I also learned the probe was suppose to be down near the eggs and not up by the heating coil. Anyway I am now with in the zone either they will hatch a little early or late will have to run about two cycles. This is the thing I hate about incubators sometimes they will mess up.

The Javas and the Rocks are laying like crazy spring is about one week away. I dont even have the lights on them and they are laying that is odd for me. I have a new person who does not live far from me who is interested in being my buddy with these Mottle Javas so that will help me in case something happens and I loose a key bird.

This will be my last year with White Rocks as I can not afford to have two large fowl breeds so will fool with the Mottle Javas and sell what few what White Rock Large fowl I have maybe this fall at a show or at Newnan Georgia this next February. Had them off and on for 20 years a great dual purpose breed but this is not a good large fowl market down here to unload your culls.

Thanks for your tips on this incubator issue by the way after my inside temps got to normal I stuck my cooking thermometer into the bad egg and the temp was about one degree off air temperature. I still think that probe in the plastic egg might be a great regulator for egg incubators. My old Lehy incubator Thermometer seems to still be in the zone. It must be 40 years old. If anyone wants a Red Wood Lehy Incubator this coming year to restore and up date it let me know I am going to sell it as I no longer have call ducks and it was perfect for those calls which are so difficult to hatch.