Bought a house that came with a coop but I need some advice on this setup.

I’ll take more pictures and will measure the run when I back home from work tonight.
Definitely need to see more pics.

We are in NNY
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bgmathteach said:
You might also consider adding a little insulation and then plywood over (painted or sparurethane for easier cleaning)
3KillerBs said:
Adequate ventilation renders insulation irrelevant -- the temperature and humidity inside and out are supposed to be the same. It also provides an ideal home for rodent pests. :(
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While adequate ventilation DOES remove warmer, moist air, I can confirm that inside my coop is significantly warmer when we have gotten into the 'below 0F' weather, with no frostbite on combs. It really depends on where & how ventilated. Insulation helps not only retain heat, but also helps prevent condensation. You can use hardware cloth on walls (under plywood) to prevent rodents from getting into the insulation if it is an issue.

The goal with ventilation is to remove excess moisture (which, obviously removes some heat, too), but maintaining/retaining some of the heat. (more openings in summer so as little heat is retained as possible...some openings closed in winter to help retain some heat) with no drafts. While not required, I have found the best winter venting is small low vents with larger high vents near front of coop (highest part of ceiling) that are away from roosts. Then, additional vents (i.e. windows) on opposite sides for 'cross breeze' ventilation for hot times.

That said, I'm in Western MA. (cusp of zone 4 &5 due to elevation in hills of Berkshires). Warmer climes may want different set up.

See below link to article. Geared more towards large commercial farms, but points are still quite relevant.
https://www.thepoultrysite.com/articles/key-factors-for-poultry-house-ventilation

Also, a lnk to another discussion, by @Ridgerunner on ventilation:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/ventilated-but-free-of-drafts.1048597/
 
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I took more pictures hopefully that helps. The run is 13 ft x 7.5 ft so about 100 square feet not counting the area under the coop which I think I will fence off because something was/ is living under there. One of the drop down door is really rotted so I think I will replace that and try to make a double door instead that opens outwards rather than down that way I could install a ladder for them to get in and out of the coup. I wanna install a roof but think I will need to get it slanted somehow. There are two roosts ( I think…) that are 30 in wide.
 
I took more pictures hopefully that helps. The run is 13 ft x 7.5 ft so about 100 square feet not counting the area under the coop which I think I will fence off because something was/ is living under there. One of the drop down door is really rotted so I think I will replace that and try to make a double door instead that opens outwards rather than down that way I could install a ladder for them to get in and out of the coup. I wanna install a roof but think I will need to get it slanted somehow. There are two roosts ( I think…) that are 30 in wide.
Fairly spacious! However, from this pic, it looks like there is water damage inside. Before you go too far improving, be sure the main frame of coop is sturdy, not rotten. Then check roof carefully (will you need to just reshingle?, totally new roof?, or just patch??) A good, non-leaking roof will be critical.

Based on the 60-70 sq. feet of coop, and the approx. 100 sq feet of run, it should comfortably hold a dozen full sized chickens or so (not sure how many nest boxes there were?). Remember the points in the article, though. . .depends on chicken temperments, your management style, whether they will free range at all, and also, though not mentioned explicitly, whether or not you have a variety of roosts both inside and out so if there is a squabble, a hen has a place to go to get away. I would start with fewer, though, as it is easier to add later than to subtract when you get attached. This will also give you a chance to see what works for you, what you like/don't like...without everything being maxed out. And without you nor your hens being stressed.

Plus, after a couple of years, their laying drops off, and you will want to add more hens if you are raising them for eggs. If you start with say, 6 hens, you will have plenty of space to add more in a year or two to keep the eggs flowing without having to rehome or process or build additions! (Trust me, I've been there on this one:hmm.) Decide what will work for you.
 
Thank you for all you advise!
Good to know that it could be enough space for up to a dozen. I’m debating if I should wait until spring and then get six chicks or if I should get three adult laying hens from our Amish neighbors as soon as finish the repairs and then add some fancier ones in the spring.
Another thing that has me concerned is that I don’t see any ventilation. There are lots of cracks between the boards and I could feel wind blowing in, but is that something that I need to add?
 
Based on the run space available, it's only large enough for 10.

In New York, where you get severe winters, you need extra space to prevent what one of our members calls "Chicken Cabin Fever" from creating havoc in your flock while they're confined.

Another thing that has me concerned is that I don’t see any ventilation. There are lots of cracks between the boards and I could feel wind blowing in, but is that something that I need to add?

Yes, you need plenty of ventilation -- at least 1 square foot per bird. That ventilation is best located at the top of the structure, above their heads when they're sitting on the roost.

Your first picture looks like there is an open area at the very top -- rather like a small Woods Coop style.

Could you put a bunch of detailed photos from all different directions, inside and out, into the same post? Then we can help you arrange things and spot potential problems? Or maybe draw a diagram of where everything is with the measurements on it?
 
Another thing that has me concerned is that I don’t see any ventilation. There are lots of cracks between the boards and I could feel wind blowing in, but is that something that I need to add?
Would be good to see more pics, inside and outside and all around, so we can really see what all you're working with.

Before you go too far improving, be sure the main frame of coop is sturdy, not rotten. Then check roof carefully (will you need to just reshingle?, totally new roof?, or just patch??) A good, non-leaking roof will be critical.
Ditto Dat!


I’m debating if I should wait until spring and then get six chicks or if I should get three adult laying hens from our Amish neighbors as soon as finish the repairs and then add some fancier ones in the spring.
Couple things to keep in mind:
Getting older birds may get you eggs faster, but also can bring in pests and/or disease.
Adding birds works best with extra space, integration is a whole other learning curve.
 
Would be good to see more pics, inside and outside and all around, so we can really see what all you're working with.

Ditto Dat!


Couple things to keep in mind:
Getting older birds may get you eggs faster, but also can bring in pests and/or disease.
Adding birds works best with extra space, integration is a whole other learning curve.

The quote below has a dozen pics. :confused:

I took more pictures hopefully that helps. The run is 13 ft x 7.5 ft so about 100 square feet not counting the area under the coop which I think I will fence off because something was/ is living under there. One of the drop down door is really rotted so I think I will replace that and try to make a double door instead that opens outwards rather than down that way I could install a ladder for them to get in and out of the coup. I wanna install a roof but think I will need to get it slanted somehow. There are two roosts ( I think…) that are 30 in wide.
 
Based on the run space available, it's only large enough for 10.

In New York, where you get severe winters, you need extra space to prevent what one of our members calls "Chicken Cabin Fever" from creating havoc in your flock while they're confined.



Yes, you need plenty of ventilation -- at least 1 square foot per bird. That ventilation is best located at the top of the structure, above their heads when they're sitting on the roost.

Your first picture looks like there is an open area at the very top -- rather like a small Woods Coop style.

Could you put a bunch of detailed photos from all different directions, inside and out, into the same post? Then we can help you arrange things and spot potential problems? Or maybe draw a diagram of where everything is with the measurements on it?
I took the roof off that was allowing rain to enter the coop. Luckily it’s still structurally fine, but will probably add some plywood over the floor boards.
Having the roof off allows a better view and access to the coup. Before I put new roofing on I want to take care of ventilation and need sine advice on how to best accomplish this.
I was thinking of replacing the plexiglass with hardware cloth, that would be a huge area of ventilation, but I’m concerned with our winters that it would be too cold and drafty for them or that rain and snow could enter the coup.
The other option would be to cut out the the top corners of the upper floor (See my drawing) Should I get rid of the upper floor entirely? From all the droppings up there it looks like the prior chicken occupants spent a lot of time up there.
I could also replace that hatch door leading into the workshop with screen door so it would be venting into the workshop, I don’t know if that is a good option?
Please excuse my poor drawing skills.
 

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