BREEDING FOR PRODUCTION...EGGS AND OR MEAT.

In the past I had Buff Orpingtons go broody, several other breeds, dealt with silkies and various bantams. Then I started messing with games. Broodiness is definitely inherited. Once you have seen true broodiness it becomes more clear. Any attempt to breed out the trait or mixing with lines that have had this trait diluted will leave you without the true broody instincts. A good broody does not go broody until the days are long enough, they don't foul the nest, they don't break eggs fighting over nesting areas, (if they don't have a secure and unique nesting area, they will simply stop laying) They leave the nest on the wing, and announce their presence well away from the nest, when making their daily feed and water run. There is no "might go broody". 100% of females will go broody at six, eight months, or by twelve depending on weather. The benchmark for a good broody is three clutches a year. They should set a dozen eggs or more, and should raise at least ten chicks to roosting stage. Strong maternal traits correspond with strong paternal traits. Paternal traits in chickens would mean that no adult male would "get along" with any other adult male. In breeding chickens for roosters that get along with each other, the good broody traits are lost. Here is another point of interest, some of the fiercest cocks will brood chicks and cluck just like a mother hen, set down and puff up if he hears a chick make the "I'm cold" sound. When you experience broodiness in it's homozygous form, it is a treasure. Most of the breeds that are used as occasional broodies are only broody enough to be aggravating.
 
@hellbender , I finally took the plunge and ordered a small batch of Cornish X meaties from Cackle hatchery. I have never raised chickens before specifically for meat, usually stick with dual purpose breeds, with the emphasis on eggs. Anywho, my question is about a post you made several weeks ago about brining the carcasses for a few days before freezing. How strong a brine do you use? (pounds of salt to gallons of water). And, I assume you brine them in the fridge?

I use 1 cup sea or Kosher salt per gallon of water and yes, in the refrigerator.
 
I agree with Beekissed. Based on the research I've done, it's definitely genetic and inherited. Since my one White Rock consistently goes broody every 5-6 week no matter what, the rest of her flock mates would surely have picked up on the behavior by now if it were merely learned behavior.

@Beekissed I hope you keep us posted on the results of your breeding efforts! That sounds fascinating!
I don't mean learned by watching the flock mates, I mean learn by being raised by a broody. Maybe imprinted would be a better word. If I have to wait for one of my SS to go successfully broody, I might die of old age. I had a couple try last year, but gave up after a week-10 days. I want to breed broodiness back into them, but I'm not willing to mix in another breed. I'd let the turkeys raise some, but they're so clumsy, they always break the chicken eggs. I'd break down and try a few of another breed, if there's a chance it would inspire the chicks when they reach age.
 
In the past I had Buff Orpingtons go broody, several other breeds, dealt with silkies and various bantams. Then I started messing with games. Broodiness is definitely inherited. Once you have seen true broodiness it becomes more clear. Any attempt to breed out the trait or mixing with lines that have had this trait diluted will leave you without the true broody instincts. A good broody does not go broody until the days are long enough, they don't foul the nest, they don't break eggs fighting over nesting areas, (if they don't have a secure and unique nesting area, they will simply stop laying) They leave the nest on the wing, and announce their presence well away from the nest, when making their daily feed and water run. There is no "might go broody". 100% of females will go broody at six, eight months, or by twelve depending on weather. The benchmark for a good broody is three clutches a year. They should set a dozen eggs or more, and should raise at least ten chicks to roosting stage. Strong maternal traits correspond with strong paternal traits. Paternal traits in chickens would mean that no adult male would "get along" with any other adult male. In breeding chickens for roosters that get along with each other, the good broody traits are lost. Here is another point of interest, some of the fiercest cocks will brood chicks and cluck just like a mother hen, set down and puff up if he hears a chick make the "I'm cold" sound. When you experience broodiness in it's homozygous form, it is a treasure. Most of the breeds that are used as occasional broodies are only broody enough to be aggravating.


I would love to breed the broody ness back into breeds we would save a lot of money on electric bills if we had Broodys because then we wouldn't have to use the incubators
 
You won't save money just in electricity wasted on an incubator. Think about all the electricity wasted brooding chicks. Think about the clean ground you can use by using mobile brood pens that aren't dependent on proximity to power. You will save on coccidiastat, too.
 
I raise all of my "barnyard egg layers" under genuine broody hens. I see no increase in broodiness or ability to brood.


Well, that's disappointing. What music would you recommend I play in the coop to set the mood for broodiness? Maybe a therapist?
wink.png
 
Ya well I don't have a broody pen I just would separate a cormner in the coop and I only hatch in the summer early spring to get them ready I have two - three week old chicks now but I am hoping for another that lays green or blue eggs so I wouldn't need a heat lamp or anything running out to the coop to heat the broody hen to help keep the chicks warm or anything
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom