BREEDING FOR PRODUCTION...EGGS AND OR MEAT.

[ejcrist]

Yep! They have a different texture to their skin and if allowed to grow to big will be very heavy in seeds in the middle, resulting in a concave shape on the inside if you scrape those seeds out, but they're wonderfully crisp and slightly more delicate in flavor than some of the other varieties I've grown.

Do you want some seeds? I harvested a bunch of them yesterday and would be happy to send you some.

I think I might have to plant a couple come next spring. I've heard they're very good.

Thanks for the seed offer. Actually I have a packet of seeds from the last time I ordered from Peaceful Valley Farm supply - they give you a free packet with every order. I didn't really know what they were until I saw your pictures before but now that I know I'll put a few in. That's two things I learned here - Naked Necks are good chickens to have and Armenian Cucumbers grow well in AZ and taste good.

 

[Beer can]

I usually grow way more cukes than I need, Chicago pickling, I have always wanted to give them Armenian cucumbers a try, hear a lot of people like them. They're actually a mellon but if they taste and look like a cucumber...

 

[Beer can]

I never grew broccoli or cauliflower before, thought I'd give it a try. Tons of broccoli heads, and now a month of side shoots that's added up to more than head harvest, and still going. Cauliflower have all been huge leaves but saw no head formation. Don't know when they decided to head but it happened quick, must be self blanching, most of them leaves curled around hiding them. Have over 30 of them a little bigger than softballs.

 

[DesertChic]

I never grew broccoli or cauliflower before, thought I'd give it a try. Tons of broccoli heads, and now a month of side shoots that's added up to more than head harvest, and still going. Cauliflower have all been huge leaves but saw no head formation. Don't know when they decided to head but it happened quick, must be self blanching, most of them leaves curled around hiding them. Have over 30 of them a little bigger than softballs.

That's awesome! I've been wanting to grow cauliflower, but haven't tried it yet. I grew broccoli very successfully from starts I bought, but had zero luck growing it from seed. That's my new adventure...successfully starting all of my coveted produce from seed. It's one of my attempts at teaching myself to be patient since patience doesn't come naturally to me.

 

[ejcrist]

That's awesome! I've been wanting to grow cauliflower, but haven't tried it yet. I grew broccoli very successfully from starts I bought, but had zero luck growing it from seed. That's my new adventure...successfully starting all of my coveted produce from seed. It's one of my attempts at teaching myself to be patient since patience doesn't come naturally to me.

You're right on the mark with that. We've always started everything from seed, either our own saved seeds or purchased. I don't start stuff that is better direct seeded like sweet corn, beans, etc., but everything else gets started from seed. If you're thinking about doing that, I highly recommend getting a small and regular size soil blocker (http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-8087-hand-held-4-soil-blocker.aspx) (http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-8088-hand-held-20-soil-blocker.aspx). Then, buy your starter, which is usually a sterile medium such as vermiculite and make small blocks with the small blocker and insert seeds in the indents on top. Then, take the seeds that sprouted (usually all) and insert the small blocks into the big blocks that you made out of potting soil or compost. Done this way there is no transplant shock. Continue raising the seedlings until ready to plant and then just place the block w/seedling into a hole and call it a day.

I've been using soil blockers since the early 80's and they're great to have. I'm still using the first ones I bought. They make starting seeds extremely economical because you don't have to purchase any seed starting trays or other material to pot the seedlings in. I do recommend getting a couple of commercial seed flats or plastic pans from Walmart to hold your blocks in. The commercial trays are more expensive but they last an extremely long time. The ones I'm using I bought back around 1990.

Yeah I wouldn't ever want to have to rely on seedlings from the stores, and even the local nurseries because they never, ever have the best varieties for your specific area. Also it's impossible to find some of the heirloom varieties we like best. Once you begin starting your own seeds it'll open up a whole 'nother world for you with so many more options to choose from.

Also, there's a lot of great books on the subject but one of my favorites is The New Seed Starters Handbook by Nancy Bubell (https://www.amazon.com/New-Seed-Sta...1-1-spell&keywords=seed+starting+nancy+bubell). It's a great read; my book is still holding together but it's a bit weathered. I have to warn you though, starting vegetables from seed is about as addicting as raising chickens. Once you get started you'll probably get involved in saving seeds and making your own crosses, etc. It's another one of those life-long interests that never gets old or boring.

 

[Beer can]

I did the broccoli and cauliflower from seed the same way my father-in-law showed me how he does them and his cabbage. Sow them in a row, tiny seeds, don't worry about spacing them to critically, try somewhat. When they come up 4-6 inches, pull the ones that are crowding up and transplant them filling in any holes and finish out the row. Water good, try not to do it on too sunny or hot a day. The one's you pull and transplant will wilt and look like they're going to die, few days later their up and good.
Beets could probably be done the same way, I just pull them up to thin when they get crowded, cook and eat as greens with tiny beets on them.

 

[ejcrist]

Yep. To boot, they were only $1.50 each. Basically give-away.

I have admired this breed for quite some time now but didn't

feel I had time to add another project but now...the situation

has changed, far to the good for me.

Aaron

Dominique was one of the breeds I wanted to start with but I didn't know where to get them at the time so I went with the next best thing in Barred Rocks. Since then I've settled on Barred Rocks and Leghorns, and now Naked Necks although I haven't raised any NN's yet but they're due in at the end of October. I still would like to give Dominiques a go but I'm not sure they have any advantages over Barred Rocks. I'm kinda thinking the BR's might do better in my climate since they have the single comb as opposed to the rose comb of a Dominique, but other than that they're almost identical with the exception of the Barred Rock's larger size and larger eggs. If I can build more chicken real estate (coops and runs) I'd like to get a dozen or so and see how they turn out.

 

[Turk Raphael]

Dominique was one of the breeds I wanted to start with but I didn't know where to get them at the time so I went with the next best thing in Barred Rocks. Since then I've settled on Barred Rocks and Leghorns, and now Naked Necks although I haven't raised any NN's yet but they're due in at the end of October. I still would like to give Dominiques a go but I'm not sure they have any advantages over Barred Rocks. I'm kinda thinking the BR's might do better in my climate since they have the single comb as opposed to the rose comb of a Dominique, but other than that they're almost identical with the exception of the Barred Rock's larger size and larger eggs. If I can build more chicken real estate (coops and runs) I'd like to get a dozen or so and see how they turn out.

There are some differences to be sure and not just the comb. The Dom does lay medium sized eggs but will lay them years longer than the BR and they are naturally more resistant to disease...just like the Naked Neck.

I plan to cross the NNs X Doms and a few other crosses for capons. But please don't take offence...I see nothing wrong with the BR, except the straight comb which I have come to loathe in general.

 

[CanadianBuckeye]

There are some differences to be sure and not just the comb. The Dom does lay medium sized eggs but will lay them years longer than the BR and they are naturally more resistant to disease...just like the Naked Neck.

I plan to cross the NNs X Doms and a few other crosses for capons. But please don't take offence...I see nothing wrong with the BR, except the straight comb which I have come to loathe in general.

Ok now I have to ask........ I am curious why you do not like single combs. For me the issue is frostbite, that is why I want to breed that trait out of my chicken flock.

 

[NanaKat]

 

That's awesome! I've been wanting to grow cauliflower, but haven't tried it yet. I grew broccoli very successfully from starts I bought, but had zero luck growing it from seed. That's my new adventure...successfully starting all of my coveted produce from seed. It's one of my attempts at teaching myself to be patient since patience doesn't come naturally to me. 

You're right on the mark with that. We've always started everything from seed, either our own saved seeds or purchased. I don't start stuff that is better direct seeded like sweet corn, beans, etc., but everything else gets started from seed. If you're thinking about doing that, I highly recommend getting a small and regular size soil blocker (http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-8087-hand-held-4-soil-blocker.aspx) (http://www.johnnyseeds.com/p-8088-hand-held-20-soil-blocker.aspx). Then, buy your starter, which is usually a sterile medium such as vermiculite and make small blocks with the small blocker and insert seeds in the indents on top. Then, take the seeds that sprouted (usually all) and insert the small blocks into the big blocks that you made out of potting soil or compost. Done this way there is no transplant shock. Continue raising the seedlings until ready to plant and then just place the block w/seedling into a hole and call it a day.

I've been using soil blockers since the early 80's and they're great to have. I'm still using the first ones I bought. They make starting seeds extremely economical because you don't have to purchase any seed starting trays or other material to pot the seedlings in. I do recommend getting a couple of commercial seed flats or plastic pans from Walmart to hold your blocks in. The commercial trays are more expensive but they last an extremely long time. The ones I'm using I bought back around 1990. 

Yeah I wouldn't ever want to have to rely on seedlings from the stores, and even the local nurseries because they never, ever have the best varieties for your specific area. Also it's impossible to find some of the heirloom varieties we like best. Once you begin starting your own seeds it'll open up a whole 'nother world for you with so many more options to choose from. 

Also, there's a lot of great books on the subject but one of my favorites is The New Seed Starters Handbook by Nancy Bubell (https://www.amazon.com/New-Seed-Starters-Handbook-Nancy-Bubel/dp/0878577521/ref=sr_1_sc_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1474660291&sr=1-1-spell&keywords=seed+starting+nancy+bubell). It's a great read; my book is still holding together but it's a bit weathered. I have to warn you though, starting vegetables from seed is about as addicting as raising chickens. Once you get started you'll probably get involved in saving seeds and making your own crosses, etc. It's another one of those life-long interests that never gets old or boring.

Plus the money you save starting your own plants. I would hate to purchase the 200 tomato and 150 pepper plants I set out in our garden each year. Squash and cucumbers can be started in pots too. I use 4 inch pots for them because they don't like having their roots disturbed too many times. We start eggplant, broccoli, cauliflower, cabbage, collards too. Peas, corn, okra seeds can be plumped overnight in buttermilk before direct seeding to help protect the seed and generate quick sprouting.

I did the broccoli and cauliflower from seed the same way my father-in-law showed me how he does them and his cabbage. Sow them in a row, tiny seeds, don't worry about spacing them to critically, try somewhat. When they come up 4-6 inches, pull the ones that are crowding up and transplant them filling in any holes and finish out the row. Water good, try not to do it on too sunny or hot a day. The one's you pull and transplant will wilt and look like they're going to die, few days later their up and good.
Beets could probably be done the same way, I just pull them up to thin when they get crowded, cook and eat as greens with tiny beets on them.

I do the same...but I transplant with a hand spade so the plants don't wilt as much. Lettuce transplants nicely, so does okra. I always add a few radish seeds to my rows to help mark the rows and get nice radishes as I begin thinning the rows.

Our chickens love the garden trimming too.