- Sep 20, 2010
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Quote:
having your humidity too high during incubation can be just as much a problem as low or zero humidity,,, that quail has to have some air space when pipping or it will drown. i have found that keeping the humidity around 35-40% and 60% the last 3-4 days works best for me. i do not put any water in the tray/ i have 2 small cups-plastic, that i fill and keep behind the turner and it keeps humidity at the 35-40 and i add a 3 cup for the last 3 days until they start hatching and they come out so wet that they will increase the humidity and i sometimes have to remove one or two of the cups. these cups are disposable and hold about 2 oz. water each, i found that if i filled the water areas under the eggs it is too difficult to correct, but the cups are easily accessible to alter, also the larger the area you are adding water, the higher the humidity as it makes the water more easy to evaporate in increase humidity. i think you just have to listen to what advice is given and then try with your own incubator and come up with what makes for the best hatches.
Now that is interesting, because I tend to agree with your humidity settings! It's pretty much "stock" GB settings +/- a percentage here or there, but fine! The exact humidity in your bator is the exact humidity inside your bator, so you need to properly read that humidity.
Let's pretend that it's a perfect world inside your empty bator, and the perfect temp. is 99.5 deg. F. Exothermic reaction achieved! Variable 1 has been reached. Now let's include an unstable element (Water) Variable 2. This is the tricky part, because it can be heated to 99.5 deg F., turned into a GAS by evaporation (creating gas/humidity) and also creates an endothermic reaction by evaporation.
Now add eggs unstable element 3. They are at least 75% water, so there must be some sort of endothermic reaction going on in there??? Right? How the heck does anyone hatch any eggs with so may unstable variables? Oh yeah....the vent plugs, don't forget about the vent plugs....
having your humidity too high during incubation can be just as much a problem as low or zero humidity,,, that quail has to have some air space when pipping or it will drown. i have found that keeping the humidity around 35-40% and 60% the last 3-4 days works best for me. i do not put any water in the tray/ i have 2 small cups-plastic, that i fill and keep behind the turner and it keeps humidity at the 35-40 and i add a 3 cup for the last 3 days until they start hatching and they come out so wet that they will increase the humidity and i sometimes have to remove one or two of the cups. these cups are disposable and hold about 2 oz. water each, i found that if i filled the water areas under the eggs it is too difficult to correct, but the cups are easily accessible to alter, also the larger the area you are adding water, the higher the humidity as it makes the water more easy to evaporate in increase humidity. i think you just have to listen to what advice is given and then try with your own incubator and come up with what makes for the best hatches.
Now that is interesting, because I tend to agree with your humidity settings! It's pretty much "stock" GB settings +/- a percentage here or there, but fine! The exact humidity in your bator is the exact humidity inside your bator, so you need to properly read that humidity.
Let's pretend that it's a perfect world inside your empty bator, and the perfect temp. is 99.5 deg. F. Exothermic reaction achieved! Variable 1 has been reached. Now let's include an unstable element (Water) Variable 2. This is the tricky part, because it can be heated to 99.5 deg F., turned into a GAS by evaporation (creating gas/humidity) and also creates an endothermic reaction by evaporation.
Now add eggs unstable element 3. They are at least 75% water, so there must be some sort of endothermic reaction going on in there??? Right? How the heck does anyone hatch any eggs with so may unstable variables? Oh yeah....the vent plugs, don't forget about the vent plugs....
