The humidity pump can only raise the humidity, not lower it. So if at first it's too high, you just have to wait for the moisture on the humidity pad to dry up and the humidity to drop in its own time. It won't take more than a couple of hours. If the bator is not at the humidity or temperature you've programmed, you get a flashing asterisk (one of these: * ) beside either the humidity or the temp readout while it adjusts itself. That's to let you know that it's not broken, it's just working towards the settings you want. Like when you switch it on and it's getting up to temp, until it reaches 99.6 (or whatever you've got yours set at) you'll see a flashing asterisk beside the temp.
The flashing 'P' is like tennesseeckn says, it lets you know that the power has been off. So you see it when you first switch on the bator, and you'd see it if you'd had a power cut. You get it to go away by pressing and holding down the + and - buttons together for a couple of seconds.
Edited to give you a word of advice, which I just thought of when I remembered how mine beeps and flashes the P at me every time I candle, cause I switch the whole unit off while I'm doing it. Here's the thing: If you have your humidity set at, say 45%, and the humidity outside the bator is below that, if you take off the lid to candle your eggs and leave the bator running, the humidity sensor will register the drop in humidity and will pump like mad to raise it back up. By the time you put the lid back on you'll have a soaking wet humidity pad and humidity of something like 70% inside your bator, which will then take a few hours to dry up and drop back down. It doesn't do any terrible damage to the eggs but it's a bit of a pain in the ass, so I find it easier to switch the whole unit off before I take the lid off to candle my eggs. The Brinseas get back up to temp very quickly when you switch them back on. Hope that info helps you some...
