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Leaving a nest of fake eggs or golf balls is a good idea. Then if a hen gets broody, maybe she'll pick that nest. Then you can save up some eggs for her for a few days, mark and date them, and put them all in the nest for her, at the same time, so they'll hatch close together. Saving up the eggs after she starts to brood also gives you a few days to make sure she's serious. Be sure the eggs are normal room temp before you place them in the nest, don't stick ice cold eggs under her. Partly because that would cause condensation in the eggs, and partly because it would be a shock to the hen, and very uncomfortable for her.
I've had broodies every year for almost 15 years. I've seen all kinds of variations in broody behavior. Some will start laying in a hidden spot until they get a number of eggs they're happy with, then start to set. Others just suddenly go broody one day, pick a nest, and you can't get her out of it. Whether there are any eggs in it or not. Some will abandon a nest at the slightest disturbance, others will sit tight through anything.
Feeding additional corn can help raise body temp, which is supposed to trigger the hormone changes that cause broodiness. There are so many variations among different breeds, and just individual hen personalities, it's hard to say what will work for sure. I firmly believe that you can't make a hen brood, though. Some are easily triggered, but I think it's more that individual hen's hormones and breeding than anything people may do to induce her to brood.
I currently have one setting on nothing. She's a dark Cornish, they can be extreme brooders.
Marking the eggs is important, so if other hens lay more eggs in the nest after you give her some eggs, you'll know which ones they are and you can remove them. I always write the due date on them as well. Then if another hen goes broody while the first one is still setting, hers will have a different date. Then, if they play musical eggs, and mix them up, you can sort them back out again. I've had that happen, eggs get moved to different nests.
I use a black sharpie to mark the eggs. It's never harmed an embryo. It shows up well and won't rub off. I tried pencil, it rubbed off. I draw a circle all the way around the egg, so I can tell without picking them up which ones are marked.
I check under my broodies daily, in case eggs have broken, so I can clean out any mess if they have, and to remove new eggs. They peck me. I check anyway. The broodies get right back on the nest as soon as I let them, unless they decide to take the daily lunch/potty break right then. Then they charge around in an agitated manner, eat, drink, scratch, poop, attack or at least squawk at several other chickens for no apparent reason, then they come back to the eggs.
Several times, hens have gotten confused and returned to the wrong nest, and eggs were cool when I discovered it and put them back on the eggs. One hen was so bad I was sure that none would hatch, but they nearly all did.
I have learned to candle eggs to select the best ones for hatching. This increases to odds of hatching successfully, and reduces breakage in the nest. Before I candle, I choose eggs that look the best in normal light. You want normal size eggs, normal to round in shape, smooth, strong, well-calcified shells with no obvious thickened or weak spots. Avoid very porous shells, too. Then, take those "best eggs", and candle them in a dark room. You'll be amazed at the shell flaws revealed. Weed out the ones with very thin spots, or lines of thin shell that circle or spiral around the egg, and those with thin spots on either end. It takes longer to select a clutch of eggs, but more of them will hatch. When I first heard of doing this, I candled a bunch of eggs from the fridge, just to see what they looked like. I was surprised at how many weak shells had looked perfectly ok in normal light.
Is any of that helpful to you? Good luck, I hope you get a broody soon! As the weather gets warmer, it'll be more likely, so don't give up if it doesn't happen right away.
