Broody hen hatching pheasants?

[Raggedyroad]

Has anyone had experience with hatching pheasants with a broody hen?

I have 2 Orpingtons that just don't seem to want to stay un-broody. I use the broody jail and they are completely broke and 2 weeks later they are broody again. My hubby says no more chickens at this time, so we thought we would have them hatch something else. In doing some research we did find some people that raise chickens and pheasants together and have for years and swear that it is fine.

As I have read through some of the posts here on BYC there are many people that say not to put the 2 together.

What are the most crucial concerns?

I found a guy that has pheasants and his incubators are already full so he wants to sell any fresh fertile eggs that he gets. I purchased a dozen tonight and put them in the nest boxes under the 2 broodies.

How long till they hatch? What do I feed them after they hatch and the yolk sack has been consumed? Any other things I should know?

 

[That Quail Lady]

I probably have more information on this topic than you will need but first I have to know what breed these pheasants are going to be?

 

[Raggedyroad]

Blue Ringneck

 

[007Sean]

Has anyone had experience with hatching pheasants with a broody hen? 

I have 2 Orpingtons that just don't seem to want to stay un-broody.  I use the broody jail and they are completely broke and 2 weeks later they are broody again.  My hubby says no more chickens at this time, so we thought we would have them hatch something else.  In doing some research we did find some people that raise chickens and pheasants together and have for years and swear that it is fine.

As I have read through some of the posts here on BYC there are many people that say not to put the 2 together.

What are the most crucial concerns?

I found a guy that has pheasants and his incubators are already full so he wants to sell any fresh fertile eggs that he gets.  I purchased a dozen tonight and put them in the nest boxes under the 2 broodies.

How long till they hatch?  What do I feed them after they hatch and the yolk sack has been consumed?  Any other things I should know?

To answer your first questions here's an excerp from the Journal of Veternaian Medicine, dealing with avian pox at the San Diego Zoo. 1978 Nov 1;173(9):1111-4.
Expornitic of avian pox in a zoo.
Ensley PK, Anderson MP, Costello ML, Powell HC, Cooper R.
Abstract
During a 6-week period at the San Diego Zoo, avian pox occurred in 9 pheasants representing 5 species. Lesions were limited to facial skin and consisted of epithelial cell hyperplasia, secondary inflammatory changes, and intracytoplasmic eosinophilic inclusion bodies which, by electron microscopy, were shown to contain pox virus. The disease was self-limiting in 7 pheasants, but 2 pheasants died. Free-ranging Indian red junglefowl were implicated as the source of the infection.

Obviously, you would think that BioSecurity would be strictly adhered to at the zoo but it happened.
Ringnecked pheasants take 24 to 26 days to hatch. As far as feed is concerened, chick starter of 24 to 28% is reccomended. Fresh water in a drinking fountain that's designed so they can't drown. They can live on the yolk sack for about 3 days. At this time they should be in the hatcher, which should be at approximately 70% RH or higher if it can be obtained, temperature 98 to 99 deg. If hatching from an incubator. If with the hen, i would let her take care of them for a few days, if the enclosure is designed to safely raise/brood the chicks. After 3 or 4 days i would take them from the hen and put in a standard brooder. Temperature in the brooder should be 98deg. and be big enough, that the chicks could get away from the heat if they wanted, should have adequate ventilation and draft free.The temp should be lowered 5deg. per week until the chicks are feathered out and can regulate their own body temperature. At 6 to 8 weeks they can be moved to an outside enclosure.
Other concerns, make sure the bedding is change frequently and is clean if not raising on wire. If using a heat lamp for a heat source, use a red one, white light tends to make ringnecked's go cannibalistic. If you notice any aggression leading to cannibalistic tendencies, seperate the aggressors. Not enough room/space is usually the reason for the aggression. HTH and Good Luck

 

[Raggedyroad]

To answer your first questions here's an excerp from the Journal of Veternaian Medicine, dealing with avian pox at the San Diego Zoo. 1978 Nov 1;173(9):1111-4.
Expornitic of avian pox in a zoo.
Ensley PK, Anderson MP, Costello ML, Powell HC, Cooper R.
Abstract
During a 6-week period at the San Diego Zoo, avian pox occurred in 9 pheasants representing 5 species. Lesions were limited to facial skin and consisted of epithelial cell hyperplasia, secondary inflammatory changes, and intracytoplasmic eosinophilic inclusion bodies which, by electron microscopy, were shown to contain pox virus. The disease was self-limiting in 7 pheasants, but 2 pheasants died. Free-ranging Indian red junglefowl were implicated as the source of the infection.

Obviously, you would think that BioSecurity would be strictly adhered to at the zoo but it happened.

Thank you for the information.

In response to the above article I'm wondering if you are thinking this is a bad idea that may put my hens at risk? I most certainly don't want that to happen. Personally I would have preferred to just put a couple newly hatched chicken chicks from the local farm store under them or some chicken eggs and call it good. Hubby was adamantly against more chickens even though we definitely have room for at least 8 more.

The pheasant eggs are from a guy (I only know about him from a local classified add) that raises them locally and once they hatch and reach a certain age he has someone that buys them for their hunting ranch. I wouldn't think he's had health issues with them but I intend to get in touch with him to ask.

I would have preferred to raise quail but I was told my hens would be to heavy for the eggs.