Broody Hen Thread!

[n3kms]

You need to put on a pair of gloves and a coat and go and get any eggs from under her. You do not have to remove her---just slide your gloved hand under her enough to pick up her front and tilt her backwards  then with the other hand get all eggs. If you want her to set---Then I would take another fresh egg and leave under her for the night. (Start collecting fresh fertile eggs)Tomorrow I would remove that egg and any others and then put another fresh egg under her-----the next day if she is still setting---remove all the eggs from under her and set her with fresh "MARKED" eggs---mark your calender. Each DAY take them gloves/coat and lift her front and remove any eggs that are not marked. After about 2 days "I" move all my broody hens--nest and all to a private pen(you do not have to do this, but it makes things better and you do not have to look under her anymore for eggs the other hens layed in her nest), which has enough room for her to get off the nest to stretch her legs, eat, drink etc. Do not put food or water close to her nest where she can eat without getting off the nest. Good Luck!

Thanks for the info. I really liked the way you explained the process. I had hoped to have a broody in the spring and I have been reading this thread for a while. But when it comes right down to it everything seems complicated. I have six nest boxes but they are in a set, all attached. The one she is in is about 12-15 inches off the ground. I had wanted to put a broody in a dog crate, in the coop, but this particular pullet is kind of cranky. I will have to put the straw she is sitting on in some kind of box then at some point move her and the box to the crate I have read to do it at night would be best. Or I could just try to fence off an area of the coop but I thought she might feel more secure in the dog crate. The logistics just seems complicated. I guess I could leave her where she is and move her after the hatch because the babies could not get back in the box after they get out. I would really like to raise them with the flock. I know there are different views but I don't think the others will give Anastasia any trouble. I wouldn't say she is top on the pecking order but nobody really messes with her. I have never been able to reach under her when she is on the nest like I can the others. She is a Wyandotte and I have barred rocks(kind of bossy)and cream legbars( kind of timid) and some mixed(also timid). She is the only Wyandotte I have except the roo.

 

[Lady of McCamley]

Thanks for the info. I really liked the way you explained the process. I had hoped to have a broody in the spring and I have been reading this thread for a while. But when it comes right down to it everything seems complicated. I have six nest boxes but they are in a set, all attached. The one she is in is about 12-15 inches off the ground. I had wanted to put a broody in a dog crate, in the coop, but this particular pullet is kind of cranky. I will have to put the straw she is sitting on in some kind of box then at some point move her and the box to the crate I have read to do it at night would be best. Or I could just try to fence off an area of the coop but I thought she might feel more secure in the dog crate. The logistics just seems complicated. I guess I could leave her where she is and move her after the hatch because the babies could not get back in the box after they get out. I would really like to raise them with the flock. I know there are different views but I don't think the others will give Anastasia any trouble. I wouldn't say she is top on the pecking order but nobody really messes with her. I have never been able to reach under her when she is on the nest like I can the others. She is a Wyandotte and I have barred rocks(kind of bossy)and cream legbars( kind of timid) and some mixed(also timid). She is the only Wyandotte I have except the roo.

From what you say, I'd be tempted to just leave her where she is as she may not like moving elsewhere and it doesn't seem anybody is going to bother her as she may defend her nest well. I would close the nest off for the hatch day and then relocate the whole mom and chicks as the mother will locate easily with her chicks once they've hatched....otherwise....move her NOW to the place where you want her to brood, let her settle several days, THEN add the eggs you want her to hatch. Just have her sit on throw away eggs or golf balls or ping pong balls until you are ready for the real eggs. She may not like moving though if she is snippy, or she may settle right in. Be prepared to move her back if she is really insistent and you want her to brood now.

My thoughts.
Lady of McCamley

 

[n3kms]

Glad to hear that they move easily after chicks hatch. My husband came up with another question I had not realized. I feed fermented food and it is usually all eaten in a short period twice a day. What if she doesn't get up to eat while the food is available and it all gets eaten. Will she know to get up when I feed them or should I make other arrangements? Thanks so much for ya'lls help, especially as it's Christmas. As it works out since I'm a nurse. I'm at work today so it is more convenient for me to ask than ya'll to answer, so I really appreciate it.

 

[PD-Riverman]

I have six nest boxes but they are in a set, all attached. The one she is in is about 12-15 inches off the ground.

I guess I could leave her where she is and move her after the hatch because the babies could not get back in the box after they get out. I would really like to raise them with the flock.

I have never been able to reach under her when she is on the nest like I can the others. She is a Wyandotte and I have barred rocks(kind of bossy)and cream legbars( kind of timid) and some mixed(also timid). She is the only Wyandotte I have except the roo.

There are several things you can do---First one "I" would do is show her where her food comes from and this Person is the Boss--LOL---Meaning go under her anytime you are collecting eggs no matter what she does----do what ever you need to do--Gloves, long sleave---I have had them go crazy in the nest if I tilted her backwards to tend the eggs---afraid she would stomp the eggs--I would snatch her straight out the nest------tuck her under my arm---head to my rear----get/tend the eggs---then set her back at the edge of the nest---her facing towards the back of the nest---then back away----always controlling her wings. BUT this rarely has happen----most just want to peck but in a couple days with me checking under her a couple times a day----she calms down some.

You can just leave her alone---and let her have a staggered hatch, but alot of chicks usually die in the eggs and/or her eggs get broken from other hens stomping on them or she might move to another nest if a hen is on her nest when she returns from eating etc---then the formed chicks die in the egg from this---I do not like these thoughts.

You can leave her in her nest, If you want her to have a GOOD Hatch--with less problems--you will have to remove any fresh layed eggs daily to keep her from having a staggered hatch. You will need to remove these eggs till day 19 then after that---Don't bother her anymore. Let her hatch. You will also need to check on her several times a day to make sure she has not changed nest.

You can also make her change nest most of the time by setting up another nest close with eggs in it-----one that is on the dirt to make it easier. Keep the eggs removed from under her where she is setting----most of the time she will see the nest when she gets off her nest to eat etc and she will start setting on all those pretty eggs(lol) once she is setting in the ground nest---slide the cage over/around her new nest or you could set this nest up in a Large wire dog kennel ---then you could just close the door after she gets settled in----placing her some food and water in it. No More having to check under her!! This will work good being you want her to raise them with the other chickens.

 

[n3kms]

Letting her know who is boss had never been a big issue till now. Guess I should have thought ahead. lol. I had a feeling that she would be the one to go broody. My husband says she is still in the box. I know he will not want to mess with her and I don't get home till after dark. So, I guess I'll go in with a flash light this evening. I know ya'll said don't feed her on the nest but I did ask him to offer her some fermented food from a spoon just for today. She may not take it but she didn't go out to eat with the others when he took out the food. You know, I guess I could just put out twice as much of the fermented food and hopefully they won't be pigs and eat it all and there will be some available for her whenever she gets up. I want to get some eggs from another breed for her to hatch. I would love some Bielfielders or Bresse eggs. I was hoping to take a trip in the spring to where I know someone has the Bresse but now is not a great time for that. I may can get some Biel eggs locally. I'm happy that I live in Tennessee and it is not so terribly cold. She won't be a year old till spring, don't know why she wanted to do this now. Just bored, I guess, with all this rain and needed something to do, tired of tramping around in the mud with all those other pullets.

 

[Angie16hearts]

When ever I want some good brooding hens, I get some from a friend that has a bunch of game mixes. She's had them so long they probably aren't really games anymore, just birds adapted to this area, but they are fantastic mothers. I've crossed them with my D'uccles and gotten some excellent mamas from that cross. I do let my full size hens brood some times, but the are not as reliable.

How often do your d'uccle a go broody? I have one mille Fluer and one black frizzle cochin and a orange Roo cochin.i got mille causeshe was so special but also wanted a broody.i have such z mixed flock I figured one would but am assuming my bantams will be better. I also have a OEG I hear they like to go broody. She actually tried but couldn't sit was z teen mom so I pulled her 8 eggs and she stopped laying for3 months. I often wonder if I made a mistake however she never showed interest again. Or since then I should say , she's only been laying for 3 weeks again.

 

[Lady of McCamley]

Letting her know who is boss had never been a big issue till now. Guess I should have thought ahead. lol. I had a feeling that she would be the one to go broody. My husband says she is still in the box. I know he will not want to mess with her and I don't get home till after dark. So, I guess I'll go in with a flash light this evening. I know ya'll said don't feed her on the nest but I did ask him to offer her some fermented food from a spoon just for today. She may not take it but she didn't go out to eat with the others when he took out the food. You know, I guess I could just put out twice as much of the fermented food and hopefully they won't be pigs and eat it all and there will be some available for her whenever she gets up. I want to get some eggs from another breed for her to hatch. I would love some Bielfielders or Bresse eggs. I was hoping to take a trip in the spring to where I know someone has the Bresse but now is not a great time for that. I may can get some Biel eggs locally. I'm happy that I live in Tennessee and it is not so terribly cold. She won't be a year old till spring, don't know why she wanted to do this now. Just bored, I guess, with all this rain and needed something to do, tired of tramping around in the mud with all those other pullets.

I actually would hand feed her the mash on the nest several times each day (offer it to her in a bowl while she is sitting on the nest)...not because I'm afraid she won't eat but I have found that technique to be an excellent "taming" tool with broody hens that are, uhm, especially persnickity. I DON'T wear gloves with my birds as I do not believe I should have to. They can learn to tolerate me or become soup. I have had really good results with hand feeding them on the nest while they brood, and warm fermented mash is a perfect treat that should awaken her like hot oatmeal on a cold morning. I have seen my snotty brooders become much more manageable, even appearing grateful and cheerful for the food offered, and in turn more tolerant of me when I'm around the chicks, which I want to happen as I don't want momma teaching the chicks to avoid me. I do use a small bowl and not my hand when I offer the food, at least at first, as I value my fingers with the snotty ones, and some of my birds have not learned the "gentle" idea of eating softly. But I don't need gloves...they are not trying to hurt me just being greedy gobblers and a moderate pinch can happen with them...they are birds.

My usual set up for feed/water for a broody is to just have it close by within sight of the nest box and let mom get up when she wants to. They DO get up, just not when you are looking. You would have to hover over them 24/7 to see it most times. I don't take my birds off the nest for several reasons. I don't like to over handle my broodies (it generally causes problems) nor over handle the eggs (again can cause problems). I prefer to let their time table and mood dictate when they need to get up as I find a hen generally knows best and leaving things undisturbed is best. I've never had a problem with a hen not eating enough. They do lose a bit of weight in the brooding process, but that is natural. I do have high protein start feed (medicated or non as you prefer) in close proximity so she can see it and know immediately where to go when she "awakens" from her broody trance....which is one of the main reasons why I keep my broodies separate from the flock as I do feed them the chick start as well as other high quality treats that I don't want my other birds to gobble up. (I usually hand feed the tasty treats for the "bonding" as explained above so mom will be relaxed around me and thus her chicks also.)

If she doesn't transfer well to a new site, can you block her off from the rest with a kiddie gate/pen system? and set her feed/water on the floor within that pen? She could keep her chosen nest, feed when she desires, an you could begin the "calming" process as well as you hand feed her at chosen times to tame her. She would also be safe from the hustle and bustle of the flock if others are yet trying to lay in that nest....but she sounds like she may be protective enough, so I doubt others are willing, I've had one or two hens that fit that category...NO BODY messed with their nest while they were on it. Otherwise you'll need to be vigilant as PD-Riverman has wisely advised as the others laying will likely promote tragic staggered results which PD-Riverman has accurately predicted.

Let us know how this is working out for you.

Lady of McCamley

 

[n3kms]

This is my nest box.

This is her in it, with a little fermented food in front. There is no way to block her off without keeping the others out of the other nest boxes. I have a great dog crate to put her in but it is in use for a new german shepherd puppy we just got. If I can figure out the food thing I would leave her where she is till they hatch. Otherwise I think I'll fence off another part of the coop and move her. I really like the idea of being able to tame her and in turn tame the chicks. When I got my first chicks I spent more time with them and they like me. But the next group 5 weeks later was a bigger bunch and more time consuming to mess with so didn't get handled as much and thus are more wild.

 

[Lady of McCamley]

This is my nest box.

This is her in it, with a little fermented food in front. There is no way to block her off without keeping the others out of the other nest boxes. I have a great dog crate to put her in but it is in use for a new german shepherd puppy we just got. If I can figure out the food thing I would leave her where she is till they hatch. Otherwise I think I'll fence off another part of the coop and move her. I really like the idea of being able to tame her and in turn tame the chicks. When I got my first chicks I spent more time with them and they like me. But the next group 5 weeks later was a bigger bunch and more time consuming to mess with so didn't get handled as much and thus are more wild.

Which box is she in? If she is on a bottom shelf, I would see if I couldn't rig up something like a tunnel (that wouldn't block the other boxes) then to a bigger pen that the others couldn't get into if you simply don't have a separate place to put her right now...if she is on the middle or top...that would be much harder and would involve a ramp if not simply impossible (although I've learned to never say impossible as my husband is a master wizard with bailing wire, chicken wire, and duct tape
Broody raised chicks, I have found, grow faster, feather faster, lay earlier and are generally hardier and better chickens...BUT they are not as tamed as a small batch hand raised. I too have seen the difference when I hand raise a small batch (3 or 4) to brooding a larger number (12 or so)...and the hen raised chicks are not as human friendly at first, so it is important to have a hen show them the way. While they will and should prefer momma, and will not be pets as they need to listen to momma for protection, they should at least NOT be aggressively fearful of you. In time, even with skittish hens, almost ALL of my chickens come around with the appropriate food treats and positive reinforcement handling that I learned in 7 years of Guide Dogs for the Blind puppy raising we did as a family. (Seriously, an AWESOME animal handling program, and surprisingly a lot of it transfers over even into the bird brains.).
One of the things I learned with GDB is that I really avoid man handling in a way that breaks trust if I can possibly help it. Don't get me wrong...I don't pamper my birds, and I know how to grab a chicken so I can put them in a crate even if they don't want to go there, if I really need them in that crate, but I do really avoid doing it in a harsh way if I want that bird to trust me if I can encourage and entice with consistent conditioning. And for that, food treats offered with a repetitive verbal cue (such as chick, chick, chick, or chook chook) timed with a positive attention (when they look at you so they know you are the source of happiness) can go a long way...most of my birds run to me as soon as they hear chook chook. One bird responded to a "chee, chee" as we would talk back and forth when she was a baby on the perch with mom, and skittish...she got so I could guide her to where I wanted in the yard with just the "chee, chee."
I don't have time to do much "training" with my birds, so I just get the basic come here rather than there, and don't freak if I need to handle you once I pick you up (most need more reinforcement for pick up as they skitter away in the yard just out of hand reach, but all are accepting from the roost.). I am pretty confident that if I put my mind and time to it, I'd be surprised at what I might accomplish....one game mix breed at the bottom of the pecking order would fly to the top of the coop every night...too far for me to grab her comfortably, and again I avoid manhandling if I can help it. I worked on a positive reinforcement and "chook chook" and while she still would fly up to the top of the coop, she would come away from the middle of the roof to the side and then step onto the rake when I offered it to her so I could lower her with the rake and then put her in the roost at night. (She had me wondering who was training who)

Good luck with your little broody and helping her to relax more with you.
Lady of McCamley

 

[n3kms]

If I remember correctly she is bottom left. Could be bottom middle. Either way the door to the coop is immediately left of the boxes and any rigging would make it where I could not get in. My husband and I are both off tomorrow from work and I think we will rig something up in another corner. Now I just need to find some eggs I want her to hatch and hope she cooperates with my plan. Think I'll do like PD riverman suggested and trade out eggs everyday until I get the ones I want. Which will give me opportunity to move her and see how she does with it. You guys are all great with the help. Wouldn't normally be able to be on here this much at work but as I'm a labor nurse no one wants to have a baby today if they can help it.