Broody Hen Thread!

We have a lavender orpington that we are hoping to hatch eggs from. She has laid 10 eggs in the past 12 days, but hasn't started trying to set on them yet. How long should I give her before I remove them? If she doesn't become broody, will the eggs still be good enough to remove and use the incubator or do I need to collect fresh ones for that? Thanks
 
LofMC - Thank you!!! You're right...I could have marked them wrong. But I was still totally confused about the difference. Sounds like the incubator I invested in might come in handy after all.

Do you know how to tell if the big blobby one is still developing? All I see is the big blob on one side of the egg. There is an air sac on the end but since I don't know exactly what day we're on, I don't know how big it should be. I was thinking about tracing the border of the sac with pencil to see if it gets bigger. Will it continue to get bigger if the chick is dead?

Just keep checking...if you see vein growth, you know it is living.

Usually, bad eggs stay the same size in blob or decrease....or simply just look different to the growing chick which will overwhelm the egg, fill heavier, and will actually move as you watch and hold the egg very still.

Movement with turning the egg will happen with bad eggs and even continue for a moment after you stop turning the egg.

But unless you have a really good set up for candling, and I don't...I just use a cheap dollar store LED flash light....sometimes it can be hard to be certain.

LofMc
 
*sigh* This is not going well at all. The "good" broody that stayed on her nest hatched at least one chick that I saw. It did not survive. It appears that mom ate its brain. I am not happy at all right now. I think I'm going to remove the rest of her eggs and put them in the incubator too unless anyone can give me a good reason to let her stay on the eggs.... I'm not sure which risk is bigger- moving pipped eggs and risking them getting shrink wrapped or leaving them with mom... I am not having a good day.
 
We have a lavender orpington that we are hoping to hatch eggs from. She has laid 10 eggs in the past 12 days, but hasn't started trying to set on them yet. How long should I give her before I remove them? If she doesn't become broody, will the eggs still be good enough to remove and use the incubator or do I need to collect fresh ones for that? Thanks

They will be fine to incubate if need :) I've gave Brody's eggs that were close to 2 weeks old and they hatched just fine
 
Just keep checking...if you see vein growth, you know it is living.

Usually, bad eggs stay the same size in blob or decrease....or simply just look different to the growing chick which will overwhelm the egg, fill heavier, and will actually move as you watch and hold the egg very still.

Movement with turning the egg will happen with bad eggs and even continue for a moment after you stop turning the egg.

But unless you have a really good set up for candling, and I don't...I just use a cheap dollar store LED flash light....sometimes it can be hard to be certain.

LofMc

So this is the part where I sit on my hands and let Mother Nature do her thing :). Easier said than done. I wish we could do one of the new 3-D ultrasounds!!
 
Lady Of McCamley Gave some Great Info. Read what she wrote about 3 times----alot to take in and all true. Wazine is a good wormer but there is some worms that it will NOT touch---like tape worms----So My Thinking is Why Half Do a worming----I use the stuff(fenbendazole) that will get them all. Your hen might not have tape worms or hardly any worms----Then she Might be loaded---we do not know. I have Never wormed a hen while she is broody----I can not see where it would be a problem, But I never tried it.

People do things different-----"I" would Never feed my broody hen while she is sitting on the nest-----for Sure Not the Last 3 days. The last 2/3 days the hen does not want to get off the nest-----because she knows the eggs need a higher humidity to hatch----she increases the humidity by staying put. Feeding her in the nest during that time will do one of 2 things because she will have to poop----she will have to get off the nest which is not good while the eggs are hatching or she will poop in the nest which is not good because a broody hen drops a huge load and it creates a Mess for the chicks. By not feeding her in the nest the other 18 days she will keep getting off the nest to eat, drink, poop, exercise, etc. "I" would Never take her off the nest----for sure not the last 3 days nor would "I" ever tilt or lift her the last 3 days. I set many broody hens-----33 last season----"I" move all of them to a hatching pen---then I do not have to check under her for added eggs from other hens----once she is in the hatching pen-----I do not bother her at all---just feed and water. When I see her off the nest eating etc-----thats when I look at her eggs----when she is due to hatch----I check on her 2/3 times aday----just to view-----Not touch----when she comes off the nest with her chicks---If there is a egg still in the nest I look/check it to see if its pipped etc----I remove any egg/shells---clean the nest for her and her new family.

Good advice from PD Riverman especially about not feeding on the nest during lock down.

One follow up @frizzylizzy2003 ...it is fine to worm during brooding if you feel there is a need. Be aware they need to eat enough if food type administered. Water administered is probably best, or even the Ivermectin topically applied.

I usually worm (and dust with poultry dust) after brooding is finished (chicks hatched) so that I know they are getting a more even dosage in food based wormer. Be aware that some wormers would not be good for the chicks. Hygromycin B, per Rooster Booster's website, is fine as soon as they can eat the pellet.

Be aware that many hens molt after brooding (a natural hormone response that I think is so nature helps the hen clean up after the messiness of brooding).

However, Fenbendazole given during molt can cause weird feather regrowth. Not harmful per se, but the feather follicles are hindered and you get something of a frizzly look until they molt again. Most recommend not to give Fendbendazole during molt. If I remember right you are using a Frizzle? That might cause some really weird feathering then.

Also, while many worry about wormers and egg tossing, the -zoles tend to stay in the gut and are poorly absorbed (hence useful only for worming as they hinder the metabolism of the worms starving them, and potentially hindering some vitamin uptake in the animal), while the -mectins are systemic (attacking the neural systems of the worms and potentially the sensitive animal).

LofMc
 
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My bantam Cochin Rosie has gone broody...dear little thing...those genetics seem to have kicked in. (I purchased her from a lady who used bantam Cochins to hatch turkey eggs! Rosie's momma was a very, very broody gal). She is about 8 to 9 months old.

I've got my Isbar project lined up again for pick up Wednesday, depending upon if she holds...but day 3 and she seems set. I removed the small banty eggs and replaced with 3 big non-fertile eggs to see how she'd do with full size. She seemed a little confused at first, but now they are neatly tucked under her and she is nicely fluffed up with a cute little "chuck" when I come close. I think 3 to 4 eggs is about all I can get under her (good grief how did the breeder ever get turkey eggs under these little hens?)

A bit of a risk using the Isbars with a first timer, but I'll keep the incubators handy in case she doesn't follow through....plus I've go two hens in the main coop who are still hanging in their brooding (without fertile eggs as they are in the main coop).

LofMc
 

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