Broody Hen Thread!

[fisherlady]

Oops, not sure how that happened.

LOL.... sometimes the quote function does wacky stuff... I was able to interpret it without problem though....

Remember that different styles of brooding all have different benefits and risks..... while I enjoy brooding within the flock whenever practical I do it with the understanding that I may lose an occasional chick to an accidental misstep by an adult bird. We had around 30 broody hatches last year and we did lose 4 chicks to probable accidents in the run, but we also lost a few to unexplained nest deaths (possible suffocations). The up side to in-flock brooding is the chick growing up as part of the flock already and no integration, also this method allows the chicks to free range with the flock from a very young age so fair weather chicks get a great head start. (at least they do for a flock set up like we run). It also means not having to set up as many additional feeders or waterers (though that really isn't much of a big deal to me, but it could be in some set ups) Since I don't use antibiotics with our flock it has been beneficial for us to allow the new chicks to be in the same coop environment and exposed to everything from day one...

Benefits to separate brooding.... you don't have to worry about nest fighting with other hens and 'imposter eggs' in the nest, also a reduced chance of eggs being broken from squabbles with any attempted interlopers, there is a much lower risk of chicks being injured or even killed in an accidental trampling incident and if you are feeding a special chick feed you don't have to try to figure out how to give it to just the chicks. If the hen and chicks are in a more confined area it will allow you to spend a bit more one on one time with them. A down side to separate brooding is having to reintegrate them.

There are many other plusses and minuses to each method of brooding, and when taking these into consideration it allows you to decide where you want to be in your brooding methods.... issues about nesting/brooding time are further effected by the experience and attitude of the hen...

So as you see, it is just something that has to work best for the individual flock and broody and person.... there is no perfect answer

 

[Lady of McCamley]

LOL.... sometimes the quote function does wacky stuff... I was able to interpret it without problem though....

Remember that different styles of brooding all have different benefits and risks..... while I enjoy brooding within the flock whenever practical I do it with the understanding that I may lose an occasional chick to an accidental misstep by an adult bird. We had around 30 broody hatches last year and we did lose 4 chicks to probable accidents in the run, but we also lost a few to unexplained nest deaths (possible suffocations). The up side to in-flock brooding is the chick growing up as part of the flock already and no integration, also this method allows the chicks to free range with the flock from a very young age so fair weather chicks get a great head start. (at least they do for a flock set up like we run). It also means not having to set up as many additional feeders or waterers (though that really isn't much of a big deal to me, but it could be in some set ups) Since I don't use antibiotics with our flock it has been beneficial for us to allow the new chicks to be in the same coop environment and exposed to everything from day one...

Benefits to separate brooding.... you don't have to worry about nest fighting with other hens and 'imposter eggs' in the nest, also a reduced chance of eggs being broken from squabbles with any attempted interlopers, there is a much lower risk of chicks being injured or even killed in an accidental trampling incident and if you are feeding a special chick feed you don't have to try to figure out how to give it to just the chicks. If the hen and chicks are in a more confined area it will allow you to spend a bit more one on one time with them. A down side to separate brooding is having to reintegrate them.

There are many other plusses and minuses to each method of brooding, and when taking these into consideration it allows you to decide where you want to be in your brooding methods.... issues about nesting/brooding time are further effected by the experience and attitude of the hen...

So as you see, it is just something that has to work best for the individual flock and broody and person.... there is no perfect answer

@Angie16hearts
Fisherlady has outlined the pros/cons of communal vs. separate very well...I agree 100%. She also brought out an excellent point that you need to manage your flock to get the dynamics you want. (Which you've done by getting rid of the aggressive RIR's).

I personally choose to isolate and separate as my environmental, flock and personal dynamics make that the best choice for me.

Why is that so?

I am working with a small flock on small scale land (1/3 acre) and limited dollars. Thus I have to maximize my efforts to get the results I need. I've literally computed the number of birds for the number of eggs for the amount of feed to target.

I have chickens for eggs (well, I enjoy them too, but really they are for the eggs). My family needs fresh, organic eggs due to certain food allergies. So I have to keep my flock refreshed for laying optimization...that means I've got to keep a constant stream of fresh layers growing to keep turning over my flock as the older birds age to keep those egg numbers up. I also like to sell some eggs to offset my costs.

I really enjoy getting the unique egg colors, as well as abundant eggs, and I love to give away really pretty egg baskets. (My friends LOVE getting them too.) Pretty eggs sell better too.

Since I burned a coop down to ash with heat lamp brooding, I have chosen to not risk my property, house, life, limb nor $$$ to properly wire a coop (still have kids in college), so I only naturally brood. But for reasons given I need to do so frequently, and have fallen into using frequently brooding bantams to hatch large fowl to lay those lovely large eggs I like to use and sell, while keeping to my size limitations for my property.

That means I work in small renewing batches to slowly build my flock with unusual breeds for that showy basket. Therefore I frequently am purchasing special hatching eggs at optimum dollar, so I can't afford to lose a chick or egg to accident, if I can help it.

I also am using small banties to raise large fowl, who don't generally respect small banties. (I almost screamed at my BCM's during free range time for the full flock when they... months later... turned and hazed their own MOTHER! The ungrateful monsters! But you have to remember they are bird brains.)

I also have a terrible time with hawk predation, and those little chicks are very tasty nuggets. So are the banties I've learned the hard way sniff: Oma-San). I HAVE to keep them, and my smaller banties, under constant watch and netting, locked in a run. I just yet again had a Cooper's Hawk sit on the tree by the bantam broody run, trying to figure out how to crack open the packaging.

I also have a lot of fence line with neighbors on all sides that is THEIR chain wire and antiquated cedar plank with LOTS of little holes for peeps to get through...I'd have to chick-proof my WHOLE fence line which would be a really big hassle, or build all new, tight fencing at $$$.

So, I can't afford a mis-step as it could set my plans back for months, as it takes 6 months to raise a layer; therefore, I choose to be very careful to minimize my risk. I thus isolate my broody banties and chicks from my large fowl and wait for free range time until older.

The negative is that this does mean I have to take the time and effort to integrate the LF chicks into the main flock, but my property is naturally set up so that it is very easy to close this gate and open that so the birds can see each other but not be in the same pen until I desire them to be.

So for me and my flock, separation and isolation has been the best way to go. I envy those who can communal brood as it would make integration a dream. But I have nearly perfected my set up so that I can generate the hens I need for the eggs I want in a way that is a fun hobby with as little chick and egg loss as possible.

But that doesn't make it right for your set up. Just watch, contemplate, adjust, and get rid of nasties (like you did with your RIR's) until you get the flock and conditions you desire, keeping an eye to reality of the nature of birds....and a husband who is handy with carpentry projects is nice, for when your dreams grow.

LofMc

 

[A6chickenhome]

Today my EE has almost finished molting. This poor bird looks like it's been through some hard times right now. My nephew came over the other day and asked me if it was ok. The look on his face was a mixture between worried and disgusted. I tried to explain the process but he didn't feel great about that either. Later He told his mom I have a chicken that's falling to pieces. Just thought it was silly.

. I started my flock spring last year and I have a hen molting(my first). I thought she was a lot fatter than she is. Turns out she was just all feathers! do you have a pic of you're hen?

 

[Angie16hearts]

@Angie16hearts

Fisherlady has outlined the pros/cons of communal vs. separate very well...I agree 100%. She also brought out an excellent point that you need to manage your flock to get the dynamics you want. (Which you've done by getting rid of the aggressive RIR's).

I personally choose to isolate and separate as my environmental, flock and personal dynamics make that the best choice for me.

Why is that so?

I am working with a small flock on small scale land (1/3 acre) and limited dollars. Thus I have to maximize my efforts to get the results I need. I've literally computed the number of birds for the number of eggs for the amount of feed to target.

I have chickens for eggs (well, I enjoy them too, but really they are for the eggs). My family needs fresh, organic eggs due to certain food allergies. So I have to keep my flock refreshed for laying optimization...that means I've got to keep a constant stream of fresh layers growing to keep turning over my flock as the older birds age to keep those egg numbers up. I also like to sell some eggs to offset my costs.

I really enjoy getting the unique egg colors, as well as abundant eggs, and I love to give away really pretty egg baskets. (My friends LOVE getting them too.) Pretty eggs sell better too.

Since I burned a coop down to ash with heat lamp brooding, I have chosen to not risk my property, house, life, limb nor $$$ to properly wire a coop (still have kids in college), so I only naturally brood. But for reasons given I need to do so frequently, and have fallen into using frequently brooding bantams to hatch large fowl to lay those lovely large eggs I like to use and sell, while keeping to my size limitations for my property.

That means I work in small renewing batches to slowly build my flock with unusual breeds for that showy basket. Therefore I frequently am purchasing special hatching eggs at optimum dollar, so I can't afford to lose a chick or egg to accident, if I can help it.

I also am using small banties to raise large fowl, who don't generally respect small banties. (I almost screamed at my BCM's during free range time for the full flock when they... months later... turned and hazed their own MOTHER! The ungrateful monsters! But you have to remember they are bird brains.)

I also have a terrible time with hawk predation, and those little chicks are very tasty nuggets. So are the banties I've learned the hard way sniff: Oma-San). I HAVE to keep them, and my smaller banties, under constant watch and netting, locked in a run.  I just yet again had a Cooper's Hawk sit on the tree by the bantam broody run, trying to figure out how to crack open the packaging.

I also have a lot of fence line with neighbors on all sides that is THEIR chain wire and antiquated cedar plank with LOTS of little holes for peeps to get through...I'd have to chick-proof my WHOLE fence line which would be a really big hassle, or build all new, tight fencing at $$$.

So, I can't afford a mis-step as it could set my plans back for months, as it takes 6 months to raise a layer; therefore, I choose to be very careful to minimize my risk. I thus isolate my broody banties and chicks from my large fowl and wait for free range time until older.

The negative is that this does mean I have to take the time and effort to integrate the LF chicks into the main flock, but my property is naturally set up so that it is very easy to close this gate and open that so the birds can see each other but not be in the same pen until I desire them to be.

So for me and my flock, separation and isolation has been the best way to go. I envy those who can communal brood as it would make integration a dream. But I have nearly perfected my set up so that I can generate the hens I need for the eggs I want in a way that is a fun hobby with as little chick and egg loss as possible.

But that doesn't make it right for your set up. Just watch, contemplate, adjust, and get rid of nasties (like you did with your RIR's) until you get the flock and conditions you desire, keeping an eye to reality of the nature of birds....and a husband who is handy with carpentry projects is nice, for when your dreams grow.   

LofMc

I'm so grateful for you posting all the great information!! Definitely makes sense as we started with 4 we lost 3/4 over the last year. Hawk , illness . The last one left is pepper. She's the only one besides my Roo I bought from a breeder. Not a full breed obviously. She seems to me to have strong broody blood.
After what you just said I'm thinking about finding my GLW a new home. I have no attachment to her besides her eggs. wanting my flock to be nice. She's not so nice all my other girls will come to me and let me hold or pet them.
I'm not looking for a perfect bird. I like the mixed. Eventually, with the exception of two or three girls I would like to replenish my flock with peppers eggs. She's the perfect size for our set up. Unfortunately I didn't know she was going broody and lost track of her not laying the few days before. It was at 11 at night I ran out side wondering why she laid so late but didn't think much more of it. Intel 3 days later .

I definitely love watching her and the cycle of life. I look forward to her or my cochin, or mille dUccle Fluer possibly going broody later as well.
That's my new goal to get my flock dynamics the way I want. I definitely have my favorites and would like them all to be nice.

I have had so much fun with our flock I'm excited to create my own flock from here on out. I have a friend who has a farm and loves to care for non layers.
Thank you LofMc and fisherlady as well as everyone that is and has been walking me through my broody.

I hope I can post pictures soon!

 

[newbiejones]

Ok so we went to check on roxy(our boody hen) today, just now actually and 5 chicks were already hatched so we decided the move her inside. She was not happy about it at all and took a nice big broody poo on the spare bed. We put her in a big cage with a light, food and water. The cage has wood shavings and hay in it. She didn't get on the eggs, we had to move them underneath her but she's sitting on them now. So she's under a desk and I hung curtains so she is enclosed. I hope it all works out. Her little babies are absolutely adorable!!!

 

[mymilliefleur]

One broody hen and 7 eggs successfully set!

 

[Robbo]

My 2 year old Silkie, Echo, got two more eggs today. She is sitting on two silkie eggs that we purchased online and then a dear friend heard I needed hatching eggs and brought a dozen over. I put most in my incubator and the 2 that didn't fit she gained. She has been doing wonderful! Day 2 with the new ones and day 4 with hers. They are all EE eggs besides the 2 silkies. I got a photo of the eggs as she has this small redbarn coop to herself. She heard me getting scratch out for the other girls and just couldn't resists. She kept squawking and running out to look and then running back in face to lay down. So I sprinkled a little in the coop and she was happy to eat for about 2 minutes and then ran back in on her eggs. It was adorable.

First time ever using a broody or bator. Wish us luck!

 

[Angie16hearts]

Before my Brody's eggs hatch I know they chirp/ peep. I've been out to the coop with my ear up against laying box. I don't want to disturb her but through the wood, shaving , hay and her is the chirp/ peep loud enough to break those barriers for me to hear ?

 

[fisherlady]

The chirps are usually pretty easy to hear once they have externally pipped, they are present but much more muted when just internally pipped. My dog usually alerts me for the first internal pips, then I can hear if I sit quietly by the nest but they can be pretty quiet sometimes.

 

[Angie16hearts]

The chirps are usually pretty easy to hear once they have externally pipped, they are present but much more muted when just internally pipped. My dog usually alerts me for the first internal pips, then I can hear if I sit quietly by the nest but they can be pretty quiet sometimes.

Thank you again fisher lady. Is it normal for her not to take a break. I know she due anytime. She has not left the nest since yesterday morning. I watched her very close! It seemed like she wAs preparing herself for a long day on eggs. It's been almost 30 hrs. Should i be worried ? I put some food in front of her yesterday 2x and this morning.
Last week she was taking a long morning break and a very short afternoon sometimes. Last few days she has only had one break. Now no signs of her and there are treats all over coop girls are ranging.