Broody Hen Thread!

[hmbrown05]

I think if it were me I would wait till the chick hatches and then that same night or next night if she hatches at night,
*I would slip the new babies under her when all was quiet and still.
*Make sure none of the others in the flock can bother them. Its good if they can see them but just not touch.
*Then first thing just before daylight hits I would go to the coop and  observe how she is with them.
*Just make sure the new chicks are not more than a couple days old.
Good luck!
Marie

Thanks so much! We got 6 day old chicks from the feed store this morning so fingers crossed it will work. Momma is on lock down brooding the the barn (apparently a favorite spot as it was where she was hatched as well), which is sheltered away from the flock, but when they come out to play/learn they see everyone. The rest of the flock has been through this last fall and everyone did well so hopefully will this time too, just haven't eer grafted chicks. Praying it takes!! I don't really care to be brood momma is she is willing!

 

[16 paws]

Sounds good. I have grafted chicks in many times and have had really good luck.

I just got a call this very minute from my feed store and my cukoo marans baby chicks have just arrived! I will be slipping them under my frizzle cochin broody tonight as well. I hope it takes as well because she has only been broody for a few days. Wish me luck because I will also be broody mama if she rejects them also. How eggciting!

Off to the feed store....
Marie

 

[Lady of McCamley]

I have a first time broodie who has only one egg that has developed. It is due to hatch tomorrow. I don't like that it will be a lone chick even if it is with a hen. It ends up being perfect timing because the feedstores have chicks, but I don't know when I should try and sneek the other babies under the hen-before this egg hatches tonight or the evening after?? I worry if she senses chicks before this egg hatches she may abandon the egg and not let it hatch before moving off with the chicks (saying she accepts them...), but that if I wait she may balk and be less likely to accept the other chicks. I know it is a chance either way, just looking for some guidance for someone who has grafted chicks before. Also some recommendations on how many to get-the broodie is a leghorn x bantam conchin and about 4-5#. She has been an excellent brooder so far-I very rarely see her leave the nest, so I am fairly confident she will be a decent mom esecially considering she was raise by a good broodie herself, but am prepared to brood them myself if needed. Thanks for any advise!!

I've not perfected my fostering method yet, but I've sure been working on it as I have done away with heat lamp brooding forever (burned a coop down), yet I still like to get some of those commercial breeds...just not 15 or so from a hatchery order.

Here's what I've learned thus far...

Since she is a new momma and you don't know how she will do....Wait until she has hatched this chick and it has just dried....so day 1 of the hatchling. This is the best time to add fosters as momma will tarry those first 2 days...she is the most welcoming of new chicks at this time period. I like to leave one unhatched egg (that I know is not on the verge of spoilage) to encourage momma to continue to set as you need her "parked."

Then towards evening, with her size and being a first timer, slip 2 feed store chicks under her. With one hand shield what you are doing from momma, as you don't want her to peck at you and startle the chick (that does not bode will for the bonding from the chick), then with the other hand quickly and quietly slip the foster chicks, 1 at a time, deep under her tail aiming for the little alcove she makes with her legs.

After numerous attempts with fosters, some successes, some failures...I recommend getting young chicks, but not the same day as the feed store received them. I tend to lose those as they succumb to transition stress....too much to travel all that distance from the hatchery, then several hours at the feed store, then a new transition to a new place under a hen, which they are often afraid of since they didn't hatch under a hen. I do better with chicks at about 2 days in the store, so about 4 days old...those that are going to die from the big transport have done so. After a couple of days, the chicks have regained strength and can handle another big transition.

I place towards evening so things are calm, but unless you want to stay up checking on them, I like to have the ability to check every half hour for the next couple of hours, then once more, then let them settle. In cold weather, I'll actually place in the afternoon so I have warmer daytime temps working for me, but usually towards evening is best. Twilight ideal.

What you are looking for is distress on either the hen (can happen) or the chicks (most common). Most hens who have just hatched a chick don't seem to mind or notice a couple more. Your biggest challenge will be with the feedstore chicks who are not used to going to the big scary hen to seek warmth...hence you need to camp out to keep putting them under the hen when they wander. I keep the hen and the chicks therefore in a very closed area so the fosters can't go far those first couple of days, which works well as the new hatchling won't be moving around for a couple of days so mom stays parked. You need that "parked" time to give your fosters transition time to literally warm up to the hen. For 2 days, I have them in an area that is just the nest, a few steps, feed/water (that can't tip into the nest). Once momma begins to get up with the hatchling chick (she'll wait for it to be ready), move them into a slightly larger area so she can scratch and move, but not a large area for the first week or the fosters will again tend to wander away. I have had failure with young feed store chicks after momma is up and giving chicken lessons to the new chick. The feedstores need more warmth for the transition, and time to learn the hens cues (since they weren't listening to her in the shell), and you get that with the hen parked. Becauase of that, I don't attempt to foster once the hen is up and scratching with the new chick. I personally just haven't had success. I also do not attempt to foster any chick older than 4 or 5 days, otherwise they don't seem to want to imprint on the hen. (General rules, not hard facts).

I also recommend loading the new fosters up first thing when you get home with Chick Saver. Eye dropper them, then place them. That way they are well hydrated with "gator aid' to help with the transition. Watch for ruffled look the next couple of days, which is a sign of transition stress. I keep Chick Saver in the water for the next week. It also helps to keep them on medicated feed. If you see lots of ruffled look, you may need to add some Sulmet in the water to fend off Coccidiosis, another challenge I have with the transition change for the fosters. My hatchlings are never bothered by it, but the fosters have come from a sterile environment in the hatchery, to the not so sterile feed store, to well, your broody hutch.

Some of the things I've learned with fostering. Good luck.
LofMc

EDITED to add some clarification and additional thoughts.

 

[frizzylizzy2003]

We gave you some solutions here on your thread:
https://www.backyardchickens.com/t/956489/my-chicken-is-broody-again#post_14997803

thanks they really helped

 

[farmhand]

Is it true that hens mixed from two different breeds (mutts) tend to go broody more often than pure breeds?

 

[PD-Riverman]

Is it true that hens mixed from two different breeds (mutts) tend to go broody more often than pure breeds?

I am sure that would depend on the two breeds that are crossed. If you crossed a bantam(very broody) with a rhode island red(not broody) you would probably get Less a broody than the bantam would be!!

 

[Ol Grey Mare]

I am sure that would depend on the two breeds that are crossed. If you crossed a bantam(very broody) with a rhode island red(not broody) you would probably get Less a broody than the bantam would be!!

X 2 - it would also be a matter of if the birds in question are from production lines where broodiness is "bred out" or lines where that is a characteristic that has been encouraged/bred for.

 

[farmhand]

So theatrically, if one crossed a Cochin with an Orpington, both being bantams, should the offspring be more broody than the pure originals? I have no experience with this only it appears this way after reading around. (google is always right you know.

)

 

[StarMeKritten]

So theatrically, if one crossed a Cochin with an Orpington, both being bantams, should the offspring be more broody than the pure originals? I have no experience with this only it appears this way after reading around.  (google is always right you know.  )

I have a silkie cochin mix hen that is an excellent broody. She hatches and raises chicks 2-3x per year. It might be more often but she mothers her chicks for about 3 months! She has a 10 week old cockerel right now that is over twice her size. Anyway, we have 3 young hens that she hatched last summer that are 1/4 silkie, 1/4 cochin, and 1/2 LF buff orpington. One is starting to go broody now and the other two are starting to show signs of interest too. It's too soon to say if they'll be more broody than their mother and I'm not sure if the BO rooster was from a broody line or not.

 

[chicksurreal]

Here's a picture of Nessie, Day 3. Do NOT try to pet her. Ask me how I know...