Budget automatic coop door or diy?

[Mouthpear]

oh man, are you ever helpful! i ordered all you suggested and it will be here all by Saturday. I will return the SONOFF I purchased already because you sold me on the MHCOZY 4CH.

I am still finishing the coop but will work on this over the weekend with my son. Hopefully I’ll be posting in here to show you what I’ve pulled off - but I suspect I may have some questions along the way.

I am going to lock the picture below so that when you try and access it , it will not let you see it but it will send me a request to let you see it. At that point I will give you comment access so that you can highlight anywhere on the image to write a comment or question. So for all who follow after you they might have the same comment/question.

 

[miss_shickenchit]

I am going to lock the picture below so that when you try and access it , it will not let you see it but it will send me a request to let you see it. At that point I will give you comment access so that you can highlight anywhere on the image to write a comment or question. So for all who follow after you they might have the same comment/question.

View attachment 3177816

Brilliant! I hope to set things up some time tomorrow afternoon (provided weather continues to cooperate).

I noticed you mentioned safety features to keep chickens from being squashed - this was a fear of mine seeing as my actuator has a strong force…but it’s also quite slow so i haven’t worried too much about it. Unless the chickens are realllllly dumb they should be able to move out of the way within 5-6 seconds…one hopes!

 

[miss_shickenchit]

I am going to lock the picture below so that when you try and access it , it will not let you see it but it will send me a request to let you see it. At that point I will give you comment access so that you can highlight anywhere on the image to write a comment or question. So for all who follow after you they might have the same comment/question.

View attachment 3177816

You mentioned in an earlier reply about a “setup of a door safety return up down feature that keeps the chickens from being squashed” and while I don’t think I’d need this, now you have me curious about how I might do that. I have the MHCOZY - does this safety set up use the interlock feature or something else?

 

[Mouthpear]

You mentioned in an earlier reply about a “setup of a door safety return up down feature that keeps the chickens from being squashed” and while I don’t think I’d need this, now you have me curious about how I might do that. I have the MHCOZY - does this safety set up use the interlock feature or something else?

No the MHCOZY doesn't have the capability, on its own, to do that. Maybe with another sensor, but I have not seen a sensor of that type.

My solution is "complicated" yet very simple. Will post a diagram that is MHCOZY specific and some pictures of the setup I already put together as a demo. Thought I'd get it ready just incase you wanted to see it.

I am going to put this video of the SONOFF demo I already have up on YouTube. Check it out.

 

[miss_shickenchit]

No the MHCOZY doesn't have the capability, on its own, to do that. Maybe with another sensor, but I have not seen a sensor of that type.

My solution is "complicated" yet very simple. Will post a diagram that is MHCOZY specific and some pictures of the setup I already put together as a demo. Thought I'd get it ready just incase you wanted to see it.

I am going to put this video of the SONOFF demo I already have up on YouTube. Check it out.

Hi,

So sorry to not have checked in to let you know how it’s going! Sadly one of our 8 week old chicks (we are new to this) started showing signs of Marek’s Disease yesterday and today he was almost fully paralyzed on one side. So I’ve been focused on quarantining him and doing what we can to keep him comfortable.

Still moving forward though (and would love to know about the “complicated yet simple” solution you mentioned!). Just hoping this doesn’t wipe out all my flock before I even finished the coop.

 

[Mouthpear]

You mentioned in an earlier reply about a “setup of a door safety return up down feature that keeps the chickens from being squashed” and while I don’t think I’d need this, now you have me curious about how I might do that. I have the MHCOZY - does this safety set up use the interlock feature or something else?

Sorry about your chick. It's a part of owning and caring for a flock. Most are not prepared for when it happens and still those who have had flocks for years, it's still a big kick in the feels.

The Safety Return Up/Down Feature works with:

• Pressure switch (easily made) and an upper limit switch.
• 8 Pin Digital Counter DH48J-8 and DIN Rail socket
• Triple Pole Double Throw (3PDT) Realy and DIN Rail Socket

Wiring diagram is here.

The Counter is what controls how may times the system will try and close the door. It is also what keeps the door at the lowest it can go. If the chicken/obstruction is not cleared. It is also what will sound the alarm, if you do want one.

The relay is what controls the flipping of the polarity so it goes back up then back down. Using a three pole relay is the easiest but not the cheapest. This can be done with a diode and a simple double pole double throw relay but it is more complex to explain. I have diagrams tho.

It is possible to do this with the door sensor but I personally would not rely on the wireless signal to get to the router then back to the controller in time. In this case it is best left to a "mechanical" thing.



Top Is the original from the other video. It uses the SONOFF, the Bottom is MHCOZY. I did not wire up the MHCOZY one because they are basically the same thing.

Differences are:

• The 8 Pin Digital Counter DH48J-8 is used on the bottom one and the top one has an 11 Pin Digital Counter DH48J-A
• The socket for the relay is thinner and makes for an easier install

In the video there are Two Alarm lights with Buzzers but I accidently fried the transmitter by putting the polarity reversed (at least that what i think happened). You will see at the end of the video that the alarm goes off IF the door is not able to fully closed but will close as much as it can and stay there. The alarm will sound until the time you set for the controller (MHCOZY) to stop trying to close the door. If the transmitter was working the second alarm will sound inside the house to alert you.

Of course you don't need this due to you having the door sensor. On the app you can set it to start alerting you that the door has not closed at the time you set it to. So the flashing/buzzer is just optional. Also you might scare your neighbors, so having the RF receiver/transmitter with the flashing buzzer inside the house only may be better.

This next diagram is a more stripped down version. I like having disconnect points (more on that next) and the snap terminals that were on the end are for that. The reason I am bringing this up is because i linked you to a DIN rail that is 12" long. Well the DIN rail I have it setup on is 13" long. So to not have to return that one and still get it all done I give you this option.



Now the reason I like disconnect points and think everyone should have them is for

• easier install/setup
• easier mounting
• easier maintenance
• easier troubleshooting repair

If you notice that the two setups are on boards. You can mount the DIN rail on a board, then mount all the parts, then wire. You can do all this in the comfort of your workbench/table. Do all your testing inside. With the disconnect points, you can disconnect the battery/power source, actuator and anything else that will dingle dangle. Makes it easier to transport. Makes good places for testing. One of the my big pet peeves is having to handles wires, after it's mounted, and trying to hold the wire in place and screw it down. You could end up stripping screws or damaging parts. Instead why not just put a wire with ferrule and snap it in? Easy pease.

Now I hope you noticed the little metal brackets. I highly recommended using these or a french cleat system.

Before you get your board all setup, put some of these on the back. If ever you need to fix or upgrade the system it is much easier if you can just pull it off the wall and take it inside. Or at very least not in a tight spot. Most people show pictures or video of their setups and they have the system permanently mounted on the wall. And 95% of the time they seem in a rush to show how they set it up and how to adjust the time, well I think it's because where they mounted it is just uncomfortable. So why make it harder on yourself, I say. make use of the disconnect points and handle the business at hand.

French Cleat System are easy to install and are way more forgiving than the metal brackets. If you have a table saw you can make them in minutes and cheap, from scrap chicken coop wood.


Last thing. In the video I show the Linear Actuator on the board. Please don't be scared of all the wires and switches. That is my test board. The actual hookup for the linear actuator is WAY more simple. I will have to make a post and video on that later.

TY

 

[miss_shickenchit]

Sorry about your chick. It's a part of owning and caring for a flock. Most are not prepared for when it happens and still those who have had flocks for years, it's still a big kick in the feels.

The Safety Return Up/Down Feature works with:

• Pressure switch (easily made) and an upper limit switch.
• 8 Pin Digital Counter DH48J-8 and DIN Rail socket
• Triple Pole Double Throw (3PDT) Realy and DIN Rail Socket

Wiring diagram is here.

The Counter is what controls how may times the system will try and close the door. It is also what keeps the door at the lowest it can go. If the chicken/obstruction is not cleared. It is also what will sound the alarm, if you do want one.

The relay is what controls the flipping of the polarity so it goes back up then back down. Using a three pole relay is the easiest but not the cheapest. This can be done with a diode and a simple double pole double throw relay but it is more complex to explain. I have diagrams tho.

It is possible to do this with the door sensor but I personally would not rely on the wireless signal to get to the router then back to the controller in time. In this case it is best left to a "mechanical" thing.

View attachment 3181961

Top Is the original from the other video. It uses the SONOFF, the Bottom is MHCOZY. I did not wire up the MHCOZY one because they are basically the same thing.

Differences are:

• The 8 Pin Digital Counter DH48J-8 is used on the bottom one and the top one has an 11 Pin Digital Counter DH48J-A
• The socket for the relay is thinner and makes for an easier install

View attachment 3181936

In the video there are Two Alarm lights with Buzzers but I accidently fried the transmitter by putting the polarity reversed (at least that what i think happened). You will see at the end of the video that the alarm goes off IF the door is not able to fully closed but will close as much as it can and stay there. The alarm will sound until the time you set for the controller (MHCOZY) to stop trying to close the door. If the transmitter was working the second alarm will sound inside the house to alert you.

Of course you don't need this due to you having the door sensor. On the app you can set it to start alerting you that the door has not closed at the time you set it to. So the flashing/buzzer is just optional. Also you might scare your neighbors, so having the RF receiver/transmitter with the flashing buzzer inside the house only may be better.

This next diagram is a more stripped down version. I like having disconnect points (more on that next) and the snap terminals that were on the end are for that. The reason I am bringing this up is because i linked you to a DIN rail that is 12" long. Well the DIN rail I have it setup on is 13" long. So to not have to return that one and still get it all done I give you this option.

View attachment 3181962

Now the reason I like disconnect points and think everyone should have them is for

• easier install/setup
• easier mounting
• easier maintenance
• easier troubleshooting repair

If you notice that the two setups are on boards. You can mount the DIN rail on a board, then mount all the parts, then wire. You can do all this in the comfort of your workbench/table. Do all your testing inside. With the disconnect points, you can disconnect the battery/power source, actuator and anything else that will dingle dangle. Makes it easier to transport. Makes good places for testing. One of the my big pet peeves is having to handles wires, after it's mounted, and trying to hold the wire in place and screw it down. You could end up stripping screws or damaging parts. Instead why not just put a wire with ferrule and snap it in? Easy pease.

Now I hope you noticed the little metal brackets. I highly recommended using these or a french cleat system.

View attachment 3181945View attachment 3181948

Before you get your board all setup, put some of these on the back. If ever you need to fix or upgrade the system it is much easier if you can just pull it off the wall and take it inside. Or at very least not in a tight spot. Most people show pictures or video of their setups and they have the system permanently mounted on the wall. And 95% of the time they seem in a rush to show how they set it up and how to adjust the time, well I think it's because where they mounted it is just uncomfortable. So why make it harder on yourself, I say. make use of the disconnect points and handle the business at hand.

French Cleat System are easy to install and are way more forgiving than the metal brackets. If you have a table saw you can make them in minutes and cheap, from scrap chicken coop wood.


Last thing. In the video I show the Linear Actuator on the board. Please don't be scared of all the wires and switches. That is my test board. The actual hookup for the linear actuator is WAY more simple. I will have to make a post and video on that later.

TY

this is great! I like the french cleat system as well - I will have to try that bc I know I’d lose my mind stuck in a cabinet (this is where the hardware will be housed) trying to hold a light and figure out what’s not working.

We lost a chick yesterday to a fox (we suspect, because we’ve never seen raccoons…). So the sooner the better on the coop. the sick chick is still alive and seems to have a will to live - and as long as that’s the case, we’re letting him keep going (if we plop him in a bowl of food, he eats. good enough for me right now…).

what did you use for the pressure switch? is that a micro limit switch installed between the door edge and something else?

 

[Mouthpear]

this is great! I like the french cleat system as well - I will have to try that bc I know I’d lose my mind stuck in a cabinet (this is where the hardware will be housed) trying to hold a light and figure out what’s not working.

We lost a chick yesterday to a fox (we suspect, because we’ve never seen raccoons…). So the sooner the better on the coop. the sick chick is still alive and seems to have a will to live - and as long as that’s the case, we’re letting him keep going (if we plop him in a bowl of food, he eats. good enough for me right now…).

what did you use for the pressure switch? is that a micro limit switch installed between the door edge and something else?

RIP to the one you lost and I hope the sick one makes it.

As to the french cleat system. I linked to the wood type since it is very cheap and easy if you have a table saw (or the person that it helping you build a coop has one) and you are already building the coop at the time. Well I forgot to mention that there are metal ones, and some have built in levels. Link to one here that I like and would buy. I would actually recommend this sort if a person needed one right away. Why? Well they tend to make less space between wall and whatever you are hanging. Like this one would. And why is that important? Well the more space you create behind there means that a spacer will be needed at the bottom. Not a huge deal but it one less thing to worry about.

Wood may need a spacer at bottom.

Metal brackets don't tend to need spacers at bottom.

Now onto the pressure switch. Easy to make, hard to illustrate and explain in text but I will try. I will leave these images here. I put as much info as I can in them, I know I have missed a few things, so if you need more info please just point it out to me and I will expand on it. I personally think using Aluminum Square Tubing is the way to go, although a bit more expensive but the time it saves making it is a plus. Using aluminum tubing makes it easier since the tubing itself conducts electricity. And it will last longer than wood, easy to clean and will not accidently split when drilling holes , like wood might.

Need 1 of 1" x 1" x 1/8" x 12" tubing From Amazon 1 piece @$9.89.

Need 1 of either...

3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" x 3' tubing From Amazon will need to be cut down to size but that maybe a good thing if your door is thinner. You can get 3 x 12" pieces (after cutting) @$18.82

or

3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" x 12" tubing From eBay 4 pieces @$16.50 More than what you need but at least they are already cut to size.

Let me know which way you are thinking of making this and I will put together a parts list. You can make this with most things that are rigid enough and can carry electricity. You could use a length of copper pipe and do the same thing.

Aluminum Tubing


Wood Square Dowels


Amazon
Wood Square Dowel Rods 36 in x 1 inch Pack of 2
Wood Square Dowel Rods 12 in x 3/4 inch Pack of 5

Home Depot
Hardwood Square Dowel 36 in. x 1 in.
Hardwood Square Dowel 36 in. x 3/4 in.


It is not clear in the video but I am not using a micro limit switch as the reset switch. I am using a regular limit switch. I can provide pictures if you like. However I would recommend the switches I linked to before upper limit switch. These pictures (I hope) show why. It's placement is going to greatly depend on how you build your track for the door and what the door is made of. I use 14" Drawer Slides and that's why the switch is actuated by the actual door itself. In the renderings of the 3D door I made the door rails out of 1x2 and 1x3 wood and in that case a block, mounted to door, is what makes contact.






Video showing how these switches are bidirectional, making easier to mount and position. Can be use in same orientation for upper and lower limit switches.

 

[miss_shickenchit]

RIP to the one you lost and I hope the sick one makes it.

As to the french cleat system. I linked to the wood type since it is very cheap and easy if you have a table saw (or the person that it helping you build a coop has one) and you are already building the coop at the time. Well I forgot to mention that there are metal ones, and some have built in levels. Link to one here that I like and would buy. I would actually recommend this sort if a person needed one right away. Why? Well they tend to make less space between wall and whatever you are hanging. Like this one would. And why is that important? Well the more space you create behind there means that a spacer will be needed at the bottom. Not a huge deal but it one less thing to worry about.

Wood may need a spacer at bottom.

View attachment 3188079

Metal brackets don't tend to need spacers at bottom.

View attachment 3188080

Now onto the pressure switch. Easy to make, hard to illustrate and explain in text but I will try. I will leave these images here. I put as much info as I can in them, I know I have missed a few things, so if you need more info please just point it out to me and I will expand on it. I personally think using Aluminum Square Tubing is the way to go, although a bit more expensive but the time it saves making it is a plus. Using aluminum tubing makes it easier since the tubing itself conducts electricity. And it will last longer than wood, easy to clean and will not accidently split when drilling holes , like wood might.

Need 1 of 1" x 1" x 1/8" x 12" tubing From Amazon 1 piece @$9.89.

Need 1 of either...

3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" x 3' tubing From Amazon will need to be cut down to size but that maybe a good thing if your door is thinner. You can get 3 x 12" pieces (after cutting) @$18.82

or

3/4" x 3/4" x 1/16" x 12" tubing From eBay 4 pieces @$16.50 More than what you need but at least they are already cut to size.

Let me know which way you are thinking of making this and I will put together a parts list. You can make this with most things that are rigid enough and can carry electricity. You could use a length of copper pipe and do the same thing.

Aluminum Tubing
View attachment 3188221

Wood Square Dowels
View attachment 3188222

Amazon
Wood Square Dowel Rods 36 in x 1 inch Pack of 2
Wood Square Dowel Rods 12 in x 3/4 inch Pack of 5

Home Depot
Hardwood Square Dowel 36 in. x 1 in.
Hardwood Square Dowel 36 in. x 3/4 in.


It is not clear in the video but I am not using a micro limit switch as the reset switch. I am using a regular limit switch. I can provide pictures if you like. However I would recommend the switches I linked to before upper limit switch. These pictures (I hope) show why. It's placement is going to greatly depend on how you build your track for the door and what the door is made of. I use 14" Drawer Slides and that's why the switch is actuated by the actual door itself. In the renderings of the 3D door I made the door rails out of 1x2 and 1x3 wood and in that case a block, mounted to door, is what makes contact.

View attachment 3189221 View attachment 3189222




Video showing how these switches are bidirectional, making easier to mount and position. Can be use in same orientation for upper and lower limit switches.

whew. it’s been a week - sadly our other chicken passed away. well…we had to cull it. first time. it sucks.

i did get new chicks to replace the loss. so… and i forgot how much work and yet how “easy” chicks are (so much mess! little buggers…).

i _think_ I have almost all parts i need to accomplish this (and all is a testament to you btw, excellent teaching - i’m a school admin and I know it when i see it). could you let me know if the following parts would be ok for the 3PDT relay and the timer?

uxcell S13052300am0141 DC 12V Coil 5A 3PDT General Purpose Power Relay HH53P 11 Pin W Base Socket https://a.co/d/5tPutZO

Timer Delay Relay DC 5V 12V 24V On Off Timer Module Trigger Cycle Dual MOS Delay Control Board with Digital Tube Display and Protective Shell for Smart Home, Automatic Control https://a.co/d/gKzj3wZ

more or less i’m just following the diagrams and the safety relay for the door is genius! you are so right - very simple (but somewhat complicated lol).

 

[Mouthpear]

whew. it’s been a week - sadly our other chicken passed away. well…we had to cull it. first time. it sucks.

i did get new chicks to replace the loss. so… and i forgot how much work and yet how “easy” chicks are (so much mess! little buggers…).

i _think_ I have almost all parts i need to accomplish this (and all is a testament to you btw, excellent teaching - i’m a school admin and I know it when i see it). could you let me know if the following parts would be ok for the 3PDT relay and the timer?

uxcell S13052300am0141 DC 12V Coil 5A 3PDT General Purpose Power Relay HH53P 11 Pin W Base Socket https://a.co/d/5tPutZO

Timer Delay Relay DC 5V 12V 24V On Off Timer Module Trigger Cycle Dual MOS Delay Control Board with Digital Tube Display and Protective Shell for Smart Home, Automatic Control https://a.co/d/gKzj3wZ

more or less i’m just following the diagrams and the safety relay for the door is genius! you are so right - very simple (but somewhat complicated lol).

Sorry if I am bombarding you with information. I Just want you to be informed. As you can see from this picture (only a third) I have done a lot of research into finding the best and simplest way to DIY a door controller, While trying to keep costs as low as possible.

Seems a bit silly/funny/ironic and kinda sad, to have spent all this time, money and effort in trying to find the less time consuming, effortless and low cost way to do it. LOL


I am saddened for your loss. I know how it feels. I have lost a few to illness and predators. The las flock I had and lost all I have is anger tho. I did not lose them to nature. It was some vagrants that kept trespassing onto our rear neighbors lot. I had eight hens and one roo named Michael. They came in through our back fence gate and killed all of them and only took 2 of then and left the other four. I guess beggars CAN be choosly. Poor Michael tried his hardest to defend the girls. They ended up kicking him so hard. I found him laying at my patio door. That's how I knew something was way worse at the coop. Found the bodies. Not parts of, but whole bodies and I knew it wasn't a predator. Went inside and saw it all go down on the security cameras.

Anyway sorry, I get upset whenever I think about it and I have to vent.

Thank you for your kind words. I try my best to give the clearest to the point advise/info that I can. Even tho I still can get a bit long winded. Plus I work on the diagrams a lot trying to get them to be as clear as possible. I like to make diagrams vs schematics when it comes to this sort of stuff. Makes it easier to follow (I think) when the wires are going to actual parts a person is actually using.

As to the relay:

Short answer is.... Yes.

Long answer is..... Yes, but,

Those cheaper relay and socket sets are not that great in quality. The sockets tend to be brittle or get brittle a lot sooner. This one was band new. Came shipped like this. Thought it was from shipping but some of the "fins" were not broken when I opened the package, it was later that day I was testing them that it broke even more.

The relays are usually rated better than what they are. I honestly can't see how they rate them as high as they do when you can't even insert wire that can handle that rating. Well I know why they do it, but that's a different rant. I personally burned up a few and heard that it happens often. Mind you that is in forums where the people (pros) work in electrical mechanical fields. In fact most of then won't use then due to quality issues.

I don't like them because their screw terminals are smaller. Even when I was younger I always got frustrated when trying to put the wire in. Even now using the ferrules it is still a problem because the ferrules make the wire just a bit thicker. Adding that the one you linked to is a mini version. Even smaller terminals. It maye only 2mm wider but when it comes to wire gauges it can matter.

One last thing about these type of sockets, that I absolutely hate. While the other things I mentioned may or not be an issue all the time or everytime installing, is that the terminals are stacked over each other. When you are installing wires in some order, you have to remember to put the bottom ones first, or you will have take the tops ones off to put the bottom on. Or if accidently wire it incorrectly. That is the MAIN reason that I highly recommend getting relay sockets that the terminals are in rows on and not rows and "columns". LOL even in this example I accidentally proved my point. The wires on the right are still attached to on the terminal blocks that I took off another project. I did not want to take them completely apart, so I decided to wire the black ones first(not thinking), and the reds second. Well the top black is preventing the me from screwing down the bottom red. LOL. I don't know about you, but even with having clear diagrams (or even a simple mock up) I still sometimes goof. Having terminals like the one on the right helps keep my sanity.

So yes you can use that relay but expect a little bit of difficulty. Even with the better quality ones I get/order backups. It would be a good thing if you did to. Or at least look to local supply houses to purchase it from. If, or when, the time does come to need a replacement you can get it right away.



Not sure where you are wanting that timer to go. Or what purpose. I can guess that you want to use it instead of the counter I linked to.? If that is the case then the answer is No. The Counter and that timer are completely different things.
DH48J-8 is a COUNTER, a counter is what is needed.
DH48S-S is a TIMER

All the counter does is, well, count the times the pressure switch makes contact. Once the it reaches a set number it cuts/diverts the power from the Linear Actuator and 3PDT Relay.

What that timer does is when it is triggered, it turns the power on and off at intervals you set. What will happen is after it triggers the Actuator and the relay will just shut off for a few minutes (whatever interval it's set to) then turn back on and retrigger(if obstruction is still there. Or chicken) then will turn back on and again trigger and the cycle will continue.

Amazon
8 Pin Digital Counter DH48J-8 12VAC/DC 24
$11.98 Ships from China

Baomain DIN Rail Track Mount Relay Socket Base P2CF-08 8P Screw
$5.19 each shipping $1.56

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
!WARNING!
This seller (I think is in UK) has very bad reviews. Only posting because it is low priced, and that may make someone want to chose this one over the others.
Vensans Digital Counter, O111ROM DH48J-8 LCD Digital Electronic Counter 8 Pins Delay Time Relay 0-999900(12VAC/DC)
$7.84 free shipping.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Aliexpress
DH48J-8A Electronic preset digital counters acyclic display counters 1-999900 relay 8P with base DC12V/24V/36V AC110V/220V/380V
$7.99 each shipping $0.95

1pcs Relay Socket Base P2CF-08 8pin For DH48S ST3P AH3-3 MK2P JTX-2C H3CR Rail Mounting
$1.99 each shipping $0.82


Cheaper relay sets.
If you buy any of these relays with (*), the configuration inside the relay, will make the pinout/wiring different and the other relay socket, can be used but it will be confusing.


On Amazon
Baomain General Purpose Relay JQX-10F 12 VDC Coil 3PDT 11 Pin with PF113A Socket Base
$9.78 each shipping $1.56 I thinks Seller is from China. This is the one I would buy if I was to pick any of these. Well if I was only going to buy one, two or four.

uxcell JQX-10F 12 VDC Coil General Purpose Relay 3PDT 11 Pin with Socket Base
$14.31 each Sold and Shipped from Amazon. This one I would buy if I was to pick any of these if I was only going to buy one. That's because if it fails I can always order another and get it faster.

This is an eBay seller in the US
*MK3P-I MK3P DC 12VDC Relay 11 Pin 10A 250V AC with Socket base
$12.95 free shipping from Florida. Socket base is one of the cheaper ones but better quality.

This eBay seller in China
JQX-10F Coil General Purpose Relay 11 Pin w Socket 3PDT DC 12V✦Kd
$8.13 free shipping from china.


Aliexpress
JQX-10F 12V DC Coil General Purpose Relay 3PDT 11 Pin w Socket Base
$8.75 each free shipping.

*Intermediate relay MK3P-I MK3P small electromagnetic relay 11PIN with base DC12V DC24V AC110V AC220V
$1.99 each shipping for one $5.26
I ordered a few of these and didn't realize that I had chosen the wrong link from my list. Even tho the Pin out is not the regular pin out (that can be used with the sockets I recommended) they came with sockets, so I can still use them.