Budget automatic coop door or diy?

[Chooko]

I'm looking into getting a automatic door for a coop I'm building. Everything that I've researched seems too be quite expensive for what it is, other then some Chinese branded ones which I read can be just crap and a waste of money.
I'm happy to build my own maybe one of those linear actuator ones but have no knowledge of wiring or electronics. If there was like an instructables with the steps I would able to follow but I've been googling and can't find any.
So I've come back to the question does anyone have recommendations of a specific automatic door they can recommend that is cheaper then the chicken guard , omlet or pullet shut doors?

 

[Tre3hugger]

What is your budget? I highly recommend "Run-Chicken" brand, out of Yugoslavia. Decent warranty. Runs on AAs. Opens with light sensor. Build a tiny awning above it and it should last a long time.

 

[perkolator]

x2 on the Run-Chicken T50
I looked at pretty much all of what's out there, the T50 seemed like the best bang for the buck to me, so I bought one. No complaints, seems well built and worked as expected. Had to stop using it last fall because of bobcat picking off chickens inside our extended run (fence only, no overhead protection). Will be using again once I find time to secure the top.

 

[Mouthpear]

I would say that 16 to 20 days would be the general ball park.

I usually use 20 AWG for the control components and the 18 AWG for the actuator circuit.

vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv Just speaking my mind. vvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvvv

Well I had this setup testing this 2ch timer and three Linear Actuators with that battery. It was set to open and close 4 times a day. The battery lasted 3.5 months on a single charge and only charged it 4 times. Had it setup like this for an entire year. Amp draw is only .005 on that timer. So just off the top of my head and by the chart I provided, 400 hrs will be 16.6667 days. Taking into account the fore mentioned test rig and how long it lasted I would say that 16 to 20 days would be the general ball park. I would have to buy a new battery and make a new rig to test that out. I have the MHCOZY 4 Channel Smart WiFi RF Bluetooth Wireless on it's way soon to test so I might as well get a battery for that as well.

Go with the gauge wire the Linear Actuator comes with. If you are not sure of that gauge, it has been my experience that most of the Linear Actuators used for chicken doors only use 18AWG or even smaller at 20AWG. Most are rated at 3Amps but that is at max loads. In general all the ones I have tested with a 3/4in thick 12" x 14" door, only get up to .1 amps and with me pressing as hard as I can it only jumps up to .6Amps.

Best to use GS 18 AWG (American Wire Gauge) 200 FT Red & 200 FT Black going to the actuator, from control to actuator 5 to 30 feet.

At the controls I use Remington Industries 18UL1007STRKIT10COLOR UL1007 18 AWG Gauge Stranded Hook Up Wire Kit. The wire is called hook up wire and it is a bit more stiff but still flexible. You can just use the other wire but if you plan on or even if you don't plan on it, adding the safety feature later on will be easier with all the colors.

I also HIGHLY recommend using a Ferrule Crimping Tool Kit. Twisting all those wires tight to shove into the terminals can get a bit frustrating. Shop around for the lowest count and cheaper price if you don't plan on using much.

 

[Chooko]

I'll be flat out honest and say that you really don't need it. Yes most of these Linear Actuators used for chicken doors, they move slow enough.

I myself never saw the need for a safety feature like this. The only reason I came up with this is because every time I would advocate for the use of a Linear Actuator instead of less secure & less stable and more time consuming to put together doors, (like string doors, and those car antenna doors), I would get the ole' "but they will crush the chickens". Now I am 47 years old and I have never seen or heard of an actual first hand account of any chicken being killed by an actuator door. Only time I hear it is when some claims they heard or seen it happen. Mind you this is only when they are against using an actuator. it's not like it gets brought up in normal conversations like
"... so you are saying she couldn't have it removed because it was too big? wow! Oh by the way,... one of Jennifer's chickens was crushed by that super slow actuator."

anyway I'm ranting.. LOL

Either way, because I got tired of hearing that, a chicken would get crushed, I came up with this no programming needed, just the ability to follow a diagram, way of doing this.

You can add a motor speed controller to this. You can also have it go down, even slower than it already is, but if the safety feature is triggered it will go up at normal speed.

"It is better to have it and not need it than, need it and not have it." - unknown

If you want to drop the safety feature all you need is this.

View attachment 3103145

More diagrams of the the same circuit just using different connectors.

MHCOZY 4 Channel Smart WiFi RF Bluetooth Wireless This is a cheaper version of the SONOFF but it has all the same features. Plus Bluetooth. And it is smaller. I will be ordering one for testing soon.

Thanks for all the help. I'm looking at buying all the components now, many of it coming from China, so there will be a bit of a wait.

I am looking at getting this as the one u suggested isn't available here, https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B08SGP...olid=2XK9OD1FTANF3&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it
Would this work?
Also how would the wiring up look like to include the solar panel and charge controller. Sorry for all the questions

 

[Mouthpear]

Have you seen this thread:

DIY Auto Chicken Door I Made ~$50​

I know I have and I even posted a few suggestions that would lower the cost and make it safer. I like the creativeity however it takes up too much space and there are way too many things that could go wrong and too much observational maintenance.

 

[Mouthpear]

i thought the same about the time/money/effort but honestly it’s fun to do it yourself (at least that’s what i think and tell myself ).

i was just not paying attention when i saw the “timer” instead of the counter (whoops). i ordered the counter as you indicated. i had hoped to get it sooner which is why i picked the other - but didn’t see the timer vs. counter and of course they are exactly alike otherwise…..

ordered the counter so all is well (although i will have to wait to test it a bit…mid august??)

i also order this: uxcell S13052300am0141 DC 12V Coil 5A 3PDT General Purpose Power Relay HH53P 11 Pin W Base Socket https://a.co/d/fysTsZX

and don’t worry about the long responses - i am similar typically - just not so much with integrating chickens into my world lol. i’ve attached two pics of the coop currently and that should help explain why a two week project is now at 4 weeks! you can see the chickens in a detachable chicken tractor (it can be used to extend the run or as a tractor) behind the coop. the other photo is of the woods behind our home. we have a lot of work, i mean FUN, to do now that we live in the country/mountains.

oh, another thing i’m doing is using your door system to essentially lift/close two doors at once. easy to do really, just make a big door (actual door) and two openings for it.

So you are still going with that relay...? Well good since I went ahead and redid the Diagram To include it. Would have been a shame to have done the work and not get to show it. I am getting better at drawing up the components.



Next is learning how to animate it all to show how it works. Want to make it so people can see it working and understand it better. It is one thing to follow a diagram but another to troubleshoot and fix. So I made these just in case. I hope people can understand the way I laid it out.








Is that a concrete floor?! Love the color of that coop and run. Very warm, and inviting. I am very much liking that roof design.

 

[Mouthpear]

i thought the same about the time/money/effort but honestly it’s fun to do it yourself (at least that’s what i think and tell myself ).

i was just not paying attention when i saw the “timer” instead of the counter (whoops). i ordered the counter as you indicated. i had hoped to get it sooner which is why i picked the other - but didn’t see the timer vs. counter and of course they are exactly alike otherwise…..

ordered the counter so all is well (although i will have to wait to test it a bit…mid august??)

i also order this: uxcell S13052300am0141 DC 12V Coil 5A 3PDT General Purpose Power Relay HH53P 11 Pin W Base Socket https://a.co/d/fysTsZX

and don’t worry about the long responses - i am similar typically - just not so much with integrating chickens into my world lol. i’ve attached two pics of the coop currently and that should help explain why a two week project is now at 4 weeks! you can see the chickens in a detachable chicken tractor (it can be used to extend the run or as a tractor) behind the coop. the other photo is of the woods behind our home. we have a lot of work, i mean FUN, to do now that we live in the country/mountains.

oh, another thing i’m doing is using your door system to essentially lift/close two doors at once. easy to do really, just make a big door (actual door) and two openings for it.

OK OK OK last one I promise.

3D rendering of possible/suggested solution to 2x4 in the way of door operation of Double Chicken Door. Another one. I think I might have an addiction. LOL

 

[Mouthpear]

I'm looking into getting a automatic door for a coop I'm building. Everything that I've researched seems too be quite expensive for what it is, other then some Chinese branded ones which I read can be just crap and a waste of money.
I'm happy to build my own maybe one of those linear actuator ones but have no knowledge of wiring or electronics. If there was like an instructables with the steps I would able to follow but I've been googling and can't find any.
So I've come back to the question does anyone have recommendations of a specific automatic door they can recommend that is cheaper then the chicken guard , omlet or pullet shut doors?

I have made several posts about using a SONOFF and or timers. I have posted a few diagrams. Check them out. I have links to diagrams in those posts. If you see anything you want more info on, just ask.

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/automatic-coop-doors.1519668/post-25639205

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/automatic-coop-doors.1519668/post-25679775

https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...ions-for-automatic-door.1490910/post-25399403

https://www.backyardchickens.com/threads/automatic-door.1487643/post-25444027

https://www.backyardchickens.com/th...pp-activated-coop-doors.1498781/post-25639277

 

[Mouthpear]

Regarding the pressure switch, I've read that the door actully closes very slowly. Seems like the chickens would be able to get out of the way when it's closing? What are the chances they will get crushed?

I'll be flat out honest and say that you really don't need it. Yes most of these Linear Actuators used for chicken doors, they move slow enough.

I myself never saw the need for a safety feature like this. The only reason I came up with this is because every time I would advocate for the use of a Linear Actuator instead of less secure & less stable and more time consuming to put together doors, (like string doors, and those car antenna doors), I would get the ole' "but they will crush the chickens". Now I am 47 years old and I have never seen or heard of an actual first hand account of any chicken being killed by an actuator door. Only time I hear it is when some claims they heard or seen it happen. Mind you this is only when they are against using an actuator. it's not like it gets brought up in normal conversations like
"... so you are saying she couldn't have it removed because it was too big? wow! Oh by the way,... one of Jennifer's chickens was crushed by that super slow actuator."

anyway I'm ranting.. LOL

Either way, because I got tired of hearing that, a chicken would get crushed, I came up with this no programming needed, just the ability to follow a diagram, way of doing this.

You can add a motor speed controller to this. You can also have it go down, even slower than it already is, but if the safety feature is triggered it will go up at normal speed.

"It is better to have it and not need it than, need it and not have it." - unknown

If you want to drop the safety feature all you need is this.

More diagrams of the the same circuit just using different connectors.

MHCOZY 4 Channel Smart WiFi RF Bluetooth Wireless This is a cheaper version of the SONOFF but it has all the same features. Plus Bluetooth. And it is smaller. I will be ordering one for testing soon.