automatic coop doors

[DonyaQuick]

Have you used yours through the winter yet? Website said it was tested through -4 but we see -10 to -20 at my place.

Yep, mine handled temps like those just fine as far as how the door mechanism functioned. The control box display gets slooooow though. Buttons still do as they should, but the display takes a bit to catch up. So, if you don't know how many of which clicks you need to do something blind, it can be a bit tedious to change the settings when it's below zero. The battery levels it reports will also be lower in the cold but for me it only dropped 10%.

 

[gtaus]

You can make your own for less than $100.

Thanks. I have the budget, just not the desire at the moment to get an automatic door. But if I decided to put in an automatic door, I might be looking at some DIY doors.

 

[Mouthpear]

Thanks. I have the budget, just not the desire at the moment to get an automatic door. But if I decided to put in an automatic door, I might be looking at some DIY doors.

Well if you ever do decide to go automated, look into using the SONOFF 4CHPROR3 for the controller. It can do just about everything those commercially produced/purchased doors can and a few more things they can't. Check out my post on the matter here.

Good luck

 

[gtaus]

Well if you ever do decide to go automated, look into using the SONOFF 4CHPROR3 for the controller. It can do just about everything those commercially produced/purchased doors can and a few more things they can't. Check out my post on the matter here.

Good luck

Will do. Thanks.

 

[Chooko]

I know you are most likely asking on commercially sold doors but, I say build your own. These doors are often made cheap and are not really all that strong. AND THE COST WOW! I have read reviews on all these doors and they all had reviews that say they die and bad customer service. Yes they have good reviews as well, but if it does die you won't be able to get it fixed. At least not without buying their components that they will most likely sell at a high cost. But why bother. If you build your own you will learn how to fix it and replace small parts on your own.

Here is a video, I just made to demo this example, on how the SONOFF 4CHPROR3 can be used to open and close at sunrise and sunset but also be controlled by remote. Via RF remote, Phone or PC. I also added the Safety Return Up/Down Feature with pressure switch. It will go up and down until the obstruction is cleared OR it reaches a Attempt Count Limit. Then it stops and holds at the most closed/shut position it can. Video below. Only took 30 min to wire. Timer version in background (video on that one later). Only takes a few connectors, the SONOFF, an $8 counter and a Triple Pole Double Throw Relay. Will be making a diagram for the one in the video but I just put it together a bit ago.

Don't get discouraged when you see the wiring up on the board. This is a test board with Linear Actuator where I test out most of my wiring setups, so it has to accommodate a multitude of components. The setup I am proposing only needs a limit switch on top and pressures switch/bar, that anyone can make, on bottom of door.

The MHCOZY 4CH WiFi RF Wireless Switch and/or SONOFF 4CHPROR3 both can handle WiFi and they both have RF remote control capability. SONOFF costs $10 more but well worth it.

If that doesn't do it for you I might have a few other options. I also have a multitude of wiring diagrams. I even have some for the vehicle antenna door but, I completely DISCOURAGE the use of vehicle antennas for chicken doors.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ldjQ1tkBt8HznjDsUMlA14M7dZHDLPgr/view?usp=sharing

P.S. This SONOFF is four channel. You only need two of those channels. The other two can be used for automated lights, feeders or water heat

i really like the sound of this but don't have the knowledge of wiring, do you have a step by step or picture how this was wired?

 

[Mouthpear]

i really like the sound of this but don't have the knowledge of wiring, do you have a step by step or picture how this was wired?

I don't have time this morning before work but when I get back I can post the wiring diagram(s) I have already. I don't have any build instructions on the bottom door trigger as of yet but it is not that hard to make. Do you have door already in place?

 

[Chooko]

I don't have time this morning before work but when I get back I can post the wiring diagram(s) I have already. I don't have any bild instructions on the bottom door trigger as of yet but it is not that hard to make. Do you have door already in place?

I have only started building my coop, so no door yet.

 

[Mouthpear]

I have only started building my coop, so no door yet.

Will it be a metal door or wood? What thickness? I can make a 3D model/drawing in CAD for illustration purposes.

 

[Chooko]

Will it be a metal door or wood? What thickness? I can make a 3D model/drawing in CAD for illustration purposes.

It'll be wood, either 9mm or 12mm. I'll have to see if I'll still be able to use the cut out from the door or what we have lying around.

 

[Mouthpear]

i really like the sound of this but don't have the knowledge of wiring, do you have a step by step or picture how this was wired?

Here are the Diagrams that I have for this. Took me awhile to break it down into steps. Got it together in PDF format. Been meaning to get that done but wanted to make a website to fully go over every part. If you need any explanation on any of it, just ask. I will be making a parts list also.

I am showing three versions of the same diagram. First two are because some people like straight lines and can follow them better, while others can follow curvey lines easier. So I made both.

The first two use WAGO style connectors.






The third Is because in the video I show the DIN rail connectors that can be purchased through Amazon.



If all you needed is how to connect the Actuator without the Safety Feature, Diagrams for that can be found here.

Also working on the best way to show how to make the pressure trigger. More on that later.