Building New Coop - Ventilation Check

[sgtruglo]

Hi everyone! Starting to draw out the design for our new coop. Very rough sketch, but I would like to ensure the right amount of ventilation, and welcome any other suggestions!

Details - the yellow highlighted portions in photos are where I think the ventilation would be. The eaves will be open with hardware cloth.
- Asphalt shingle roof over plywood. Was thinking I might need a ridge vent also?
- Two windows in front and one in back that will be covered in wire mesh… but can be covered in winter.
- We live in upstate NY. We have average summers in the 70/80’s and can get humid. Winters are up and down but can get very cold, lots of snow and very windy.
- Will be getting more chicks soon for a total of 9-10 hens.
- coop will be attached at the back to the already built run. Fully enclosed with 1/2” hard wire mesh and clear roofing panels. ( I think it’s 7’ x 16’ ) . they also have a large free range area that they are in most of the year when trees are full.
- foxes and hawks are our main predators and have taken our poor girls in past when full free range.
- raised off ground with cloth and solid floor.
- 4 nesting boxes
- 6 foot privacy fence next to the side of coop opposite of nesting boxes. So there is some extra protection from winds.

Still have to design inside and rest of details, but wanted to make sure I’m on the right path.

@3KillerBs - I hope I did ok I have reviewed your wonderful ventilation post with cute illustrations !

 

[aart]

Good on the eaves.
Not sure how the edges of the gale ends would work.
Maybe larger, slatted, triangular gable vents rather than the circles.
Ridge vent is a good idea.
Might make roof overhangs larger, 18-24".

 

[3KillerBs]

It's easy to tell that you've put a LOT of thought into this.

the yellow highlighted portions in photos are where I think the ventilation would be. The eaves will be open with hardware cloth.

Those look good.

Personally, I'd use an open triangle at the top of the gable peak rather than the round vent -- especially where it's under the run roof -- but if you're matching other outbuildings stylistically, it should still be good with the generous venting at the eves.

Just make sure that there is enough overhang on the gable end to shelter the gable vent.

- Asphalt shingle roof over plywood. Was thinking I might need a ridge vent also?

IMO, there's really no reason to *not* put in a ridge vent when you have the opportunity to use one. They're simple to install.

- Two windows in front and one in back that will be covered in wire mesh… but can be covered in winter.

If you use use top-hinged covers they act as their own awnings and allow you to adjust them for any weather conditions.

Depending on your precise local conditions and microclimates you may never need to ever close them completely -- but you'd have the option if necessary.

- coop will be attached at the back to the already built run. Fully enclosed with 1/2” hard wire mesh and clear roofing panels.

I'm always reflexively wary of clear roofing panels, but since the run is pre-existing and working ....

Just watch to see how attaching the coop changes the air circulation pattern in the run to make sure it doesn't overheat on your hottest summer days.

Not sure how the edges of the gale ends would work.

I assumed just not bringing the siding all the way to the top -- but that would probably require framing it out to support the top edge of the siding.

 

[aart]

I assumed just not bringing the siding all the way to the top -- but that would probably require framing it out to support the top edge of the siding.

It would take some creative rafter and fly rafter construction.

 

[sgtruglo]

Good on the eaves.
Not sure how the edges of the gale ends would work.
Maybe larger, slatted, triangular gable vents rather than the circles.
Ridge vent is a good idea.
Might make roof overhangs larger, 18-24".

Thank you for response! I Will switch over to triangle gable vent. Will also make overhangs larger than photo shows.

 

[sgtruglo]

It's easy to tell that you've put a LOT of thought into this.



Those look good.

Personally, I'd use an open triangle at the top of the gable peak rather than the round vent -- especially where it's under the run roof -- but if you're matching other outbuildings stylistically, it should still be good with the generous venting at the eves.

Just make sure that there is enough overhang on the gable end to shelter the gable vent.



IMO, there's really no reason to *not* put in a ridge vent when you have the opportunity to use one. They're simple to install.



If you use use top-hinged covers they act as their own awnings and allow you to adjust them for any weather conditions.

Depending on your precise local conditions and microclimates you may never need to ever close them completely -- but you'd have the option if necessary.



I'm always reflexively wary of clear roofing panels, but since the run is pre-existing and working ....

Just watch to see how attaching the coop changes the air circulation pattern in the run to make sure it doesn't overheat on your hottest summer days.



I assumed just not bringing the siding all the way to the top -- but that would probably require framing it out to support the top edge of the siding.

Thank you for taking time to reply to all these!!
I will switch over to triangle gable vent with frame support on top for roof. (My husband very good with construction and does all those details. I just design )

Will add the ridge vent to supply list

Love the idea of hinged at top to product from rain and snow blowing in but still more venting.

The clear panels have worked very well so far and have solid 2x4 framing underneath supporting them.

Will keep an eye on air circulation, but in summers they are mainly free range.

 

[3KillerBs]

Love the idea of hinged at top to product from rain and snow blowing in but still more venting.

Here's a useful article I have bookmarked for when I need to reference it: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/window-support-for-top-hinged-windows.74810/

 

[sgtruglo]

Here's a useful article I have bookmarked for when I need to reference it: https://www.backyardchickens.com/articles/window-support-for-top-hinged-windows.74810/

Who would have thought… boat parts for windows. Nice.

 

[3KillerBs]

Who would have thought… boat parts for windows. Nice.

Yes, so clever that when I saw it I saved the link even though I don't have any windows like that (due to coop designs that have entire wire walls rather than windows of any kind).

 

[sgtruglo]

Do you think 1/2” plywood is sufficient for the walls? Painted or stained exterior for finish. Or does it need to be 3/4”?