Bullying, Bathing, Runts, and Handling Hens

Sorry for the slow reply, been very busy. Just a random thought, based on the neck hackling in the middle of the last lot of pics, Wilma may be a slow-maturing Wilbur... If this is true then special fancy triangular edged feathers would be starting to emerge from the back and shoulder areas, though they might still be hidden.... I'm not sure though.

Quote: The scales are not good, but nowhere near as flat out bad as a lot of the chooks I cull for bad scales. I'm more concerned about their randomness and the thinness and strange angle of her left shinbone. However this all seems normal in America. I would breed her if she were mine just to see what that scaling means but it's not a truly good set of legs unfortunately. At least it doesn't indicate outright deviant bone structure to come.

That black mark is something to check on; it's a scab, with swelling, and may indicate a bite, puncture, or staph infection. Runty going lame suddenly too indicates possibly an infection, so possibly treat as one anyway because her toe is clearly swollen. I would check Runty for injuries or swellings too. Bumblefoot is contagious.

Is her foot hot, or just that toe? However unless it is in fact bumblefoot having gotten into her system, I wouldn't think her overall condition is purely from a stab to the toe. Something's making her feel quite ill. The staph can attack and kill the whole bird sometimes. Generally though you'd see a much more swollen foot.

Something I would recommend you check out, also: that lump at the base of Wilma's jaw, at the corner of her mouth, in the last pic. That bulge is not supposed to be there. Also, the shrivelled, pale-edged dull reddish-brownish color of the wattles along with the hunching/ruffling and crest color fluctuation should be considered a sign of something being fairly wrong.

That said, I can't offer you actual advice there, I experiment and play it by ear/sight/smell/learning and intuition. I know a lot of people look down on that but they lose more chooks than me so I ignore it. :p I would check the poops, the belly, the temperature of limbs and general body, the crop, and so forth. The eyes are bright, so that's good. Sometimes it's only a tiny variation which indicates a severe underlying problem. If the belly area is too full it could be organ swelling etc; nothing to panic about, because it's something it'll take a fair bit of experience to diagnose by feel, and I gave that as an example, I don't think Wilma has that.

Even if you don't think it matters, checking and recording everything is a good idea, because later on all the symptoms will fit together and you'll have that 'aha' moment. Hopefully in time. When I'm baffled about a problem, I usually fast or just flush them with olive oil to remove blockages/whatever, and try to treat symptoms. In this case it looks like infection is one, as well as cardiovascular insufficiency being a possibility, from the color flush & fade pattern and the mauve wattle centers. Rosemary is a potent heart tonic which is also an anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, etc.... Same is all true of honey. If it's unheated... One of the first things I almost always do for a mystery sick animal or injured one is honey water. Just make it more water than honey, no need to be too specific, but if it's too thick they are sometimes less inclined to drink it. Generally a flat tablespoon to a cup of water is good enough. 'Nectar water' style.

Honey in its natural/uncooked form is antibacterial, anti inflammatory, contains vitamins, minerals, electrolytes, enzymes, pro- and pre-biotics, among other substances still being discovered, it soothes and heals, and is a nervine, all of which have saved countless lives.. I often forget it, LOL! Just because I automatically use it almost as a matter of course, so it's become so second nature I forget to list it as one of the most important life supports you can offer. Rosemary combined with honey is extremely powerful as a heart tonic among other uses, including as an anti infection salve to apply directly to uncleaned wounds. In my opinion wound cleaning of tiny particles of dirt etc often does more harm than good since it washes away the important first response of the body as well.

You can see wasting in a bird's feet, often, since chooks actually have naturally fairly plump feet compared to many other birds. Also in faces. You should not be seeing bone structure beneath the skin at any time, it is a symptom of trouble brooding. I would be suspicious of any bird with legs as thin as Wilma though it can be genetic and her feet aren't wasted, so it's not that.

Rats are known to eat parts of animals while they sleep, as well as parts of humans, usually the nose, ears, toes and fingers. Something has pierced her toe, it looks like, from the top downwards unless the bottom has a wound as well. Since that's a rather unusual mark I would suspect a bite. Infection can make her ill, especially if it's gotten into her bones. The fact that she's enjoying your company and hasn't become completely introverted is encouraging, but she needs something done. In America I hear there is something called 'NuStock' which is not stockholm tar but sounds like it does an almost identical job; that might be useful in this case or future injuries.

Hatchery stock are prone to dying of literally everything. I can't stay far enough away from them to be honest, as in I'm never worried about what they could give my birds but I'm tired of always fighting battles the birds are predisposed to lose. Bad breeding, I feel sorry for them and support the eradication of such poor stock and their misery by not supporting the cage breeding or intensive production breeding industries. I would keep survivors and breed from them rather than patronize a hatchery, I feel that strongly about the sad creatures they produce.
Quote: Since they need to be the teeth of the chicken, powdered is not much use. Supposedly they get better calcium from other sources. If the average piece of oyster shell is smaller than half a cm, it's getting too fine to be useful.

Best wishes, I hope your flock's ok.
 
Chooks, I can't even thank you enough. :) I am about to leave for the day and I don't have much time. I made some honey water (natural raw organic honey raised locally (10miles)) and put it in the cardboard box where Runty is living, and added Wilma to the box. They're being very calm and stationary right now. They have honey water, garlic/OACV water, and their organic grower feed. Should Wilma be on liquids only, due to infection? I will need to build a 2nd box when I get home this evening to separate them so that Runty can still eat... Also! I have a Rosemary bush on my back deck that I have noticed they sometimes eat. Maybe they knew? I will chop some up small and add it to the honey water. They don't seem very interested in eating/drinking at the moment though. I wish I could stay and observe them today.

It would be crazy if Wilma was a Wilbur! I can't really see those feathers you are talking about but I will look closer when I have more time. Will also look for the lump on her face.. you are very experienced to have noticed it - I didn't see a thing. It might just be a small spot without feathers? Need more time for inspection... I will see if the local feed store has NuStock also...

If you say not to clean Wilma's feet, then I won't. They are quite dirty, seems prone to infection with the wound (bite?) - I guess the damage there is already done. I would consider an epsom salt foot bath and rubbing it with A&D ointment if you had not warned me against it.
 
Smart chooks you've got to self medicate on rosemary, often they think it's too hard in its normal form. You don't need to put a bird on liquids only when the infection is a localized one that isn't accompanied by fever.

One thing people often do is fret about an animal not eating when they notice it's sick, and cram all sorts of helpfully intentioned goodies down its throat when in fact the fasting can be crucial to its survival. Very hard in some cases to treat a bird that won't stop eating! But it depends on a few things. If they haven't been eating regularly/normally for a few days I would then, based on any other symptoms I notice as well, suspect toxicity or blockages, and treat with olive oil or charcoal or both mixed together. That's if they haven't shown symptoms like certain types of poops that tell me it's an illness.

An initial reluctance to eat is often lifesaving and eating at the wrong time can kill. Animals can get by for a long time on honeywater especially with a pinch of kelp in it, and other small but highly nutritious tidbits. Some will use it a as a crutch for however long it takes, or just keep supplementing themselves with it until they don't feel that need anymore.

As a general rule it's best to not feed during fever but if the fever's prolonged then liquid foods are useful. If the chooks are noticeably hotter than usual I would possibly drench them with charcoal/olive-oil or water mix. It's important to use cold pressed extra virgin olive oil since that is easily processed by their bodies and retains the natural medicinal properties of olive oil including vitamin E.

Regarding the foot, since it's been left to be taken care of by the chook's own system and the chook's not fully succeeding there yet, I would possibly wash or soak it. I've not used Epsom salts but have heard of people using them quite successfully with bumblefoot. In open wounds people are often quick to apply something harsh that removes dirt but also removes the body's first response, in which case dirt is being accorded more importance than it often actually has in terms of how infective a little dirt usually is. Which in a healthy body with healthy dirt is actually about zero percent. In this case the wound's older and sealed and possibly needs opening since the chook clearly has swelling in there. I don't know it's bumblefoot, it looks more like an injury to me, but best to be careful.

All the best.
 
Quote: This is why I started researching Scaley Leg because her legs look in worse shape than Betty (the other barred). I also noticed Betty has blacker skin on her legs while Wilma's is white/gray. It is sad to me that this is "normal" in America.



Quote: On Cersei (buff orp) her far left and right toes are disfigured I noticed. The far left and right toenails point backwards instead of outward starting at the last toe joint. :(


Quote: Okay, got it. I didn't immediately know that it was a scab/injury, but now it's in my chicken knowledge repertoire I suppose.



Quote: Good idea, I should start journaling things as they happen. Right now this thread is the best record I have. I did keep information written when I was treating for vent gleet also. I need to copy down specific information you've given me also, you are just a wealth of information! :)

Quote:
I went to 2 feed stores yesterday and I was able to get Nu-Stock which appears to be a cream/ointment for skin problems in all animals (even cats!). Great to have on hand! Thank you for the recommendation :) I am going to give her feet an epsom salt soak and apply NuStock.


Quote: I inspected her further today and there is definitely a lump of some kind there. I am not sure yet what it is, I haven't tried to touch it to see if it's hard/soft/painful. Would Nustock be an OK thing to apply there?


Quote: noted



Quote: Well, live and learn I guess... now I know :(


Quote: Oh okay great! They are somewhat larger flakes than I imagine would be comfortable to swallow, but what you said makes sense.


Quote: I will check Runty again today. I inspected her right foot very thoroughly the first day, but I haven't picked her up since then. Her feet are yellow, there was no red skin, no obvious wounds/blood/redness as I see from googling bumblefoot. I believe Runty might have a sprain, I don't think it's broken because her toes still move and she does hobble on it sometimes. It hurts her but it isn't killing her to walk on it. She is still very, very small with very short legs. I think that she has been following the larger girls through the grass which they have no trouble with, but she always trails behind them. He just mowed the lawn yesterday, so it was probably at it's highest when her leg got injured. Maybe 4inch tall grass with some random weeds taller than her. If that's the cause, we are certainly at fault for making her walk through it/not mowing it fast enough.. There's also a hill that she struggles to climb, it's not even that steep, but she slows down considerably when she goes up it, even when it's short grass.

Runty is in her own private box right now, with a smaller amount to move than Wilma's box. She has a small box inside for hiding, feed, and OACV+garlic water inside. I also sprinkled a tiny, tiny bit of rosemary in her waterer. I will add some greens today also. She is mostly sitting still, resting her leg, eating and drinking.

Wilma is in a larger box with a perch, a hiding box, no feed, and two separate waterers: one OACV+garlic, one organic raw honey + rosemary. I added a small amount (half teaspoon?) of kelp meal to the water dish too, since she has no feed. She drinks out of both but seems to prefer the honeywater. I'm worried she's going to try and eat the cedar shavings because she keeps foraging around. Can you reassure me that kelp+honeywater is enough to sustain her for this 1 day liquid fast? I will put the grain+greens in tomorrow.

I'm conflicted on whether this fast is necessary because I am on information overload right now. If she can survive a day eating honeywater and kelp, I think it would be good for her. I'm sad because I can tell she is hungry. I held her for a minute and she was trying to peck at specks of anything to see if it was food. Eat your kelp honey!!

My husband built them two separate boxes while I was gone yesterday, so they have been separated the majority of the time. While I was out, he thought he saw blood in Wilma's poop, but I do not believe that there is blood after inspecting today. They are in cardboard and there is cedar inside, when they get wet they do look orangeish; but I inspected with a big bright light, there is NO blood. I was glad we had already separated them during that little scare. I think I will continue to keep them separate because if Runty were to catch something from sharing a container, I'd feel pretty bad.

I held Wilma to see if she felt hot or feverish, and she really didn't seem too hot to me. Her feet might have even been a little chilly. Does that indicate anything to you? It is worth noting that just before this happened, we had very hot weather comparatively, it might have felt like a fever to her body. Her poops were pretty solid but came out with water "around" it, I read online that can happen during warmer weather as the body's cooling response so it seemed normal.

Edit:
Progress update: The lump on her face right above her ear(?), is hard and swollen. The other side is normal. She's in my lap right now and pecking the freckles on my arm - ow! About ready to just give her food after this pecking :p I gave her a foot soak in epsom salt water which got most of the dirt and grime off, then covered her feet in a layer of NuStock. After I held her for the soak, she complains at being put back in her box and just wants to be held or to perch on me. Then she stops complaining. I have too many freckles OW! .......ffs!

I inspected Runty's feet closer and could not find any lesions, wounds, etc. I cannot pinpoint the exact location of injury other than right leg. I don't think it's the actual foot. I gave her feet the same treatment cause they were kind of poopy and dirty.

Edit2: Wilma is sleeping with her head in her wing perched on my left arm as I type this lol. How cute. I hope she lives
hide.gif



Edit3: Could it be an ear infection?! I notice her kicking at her head some (noted left side kicking, havent seen right side yet). Her ear lobe on the right side is pale. Her ear lobe on the left side is normal/red. Cannot see any fluid coming from her ears (or her eyes for that matter). The lump is on the left side, is white/hard, could it be filled with something? It is above what I think is her ear (the tuft of feathers). Maybe it needs to drain? She doesnt have balance issues typical of an ear infection, so scratch that.

Here is a thread with a chook who has an abscess in nearly the same spot. Maybe whatever bit her toe also caused the abscess? Would a squirrel do that? http://www.chickencrossing.org/forum/viewtopic.php?id=9488 They all say use antibiotics, but I hate antibiotics (for humans) and would not want it to transfer to her eggs when she has them.. are AB's necessary for her survival? Will my natural methods be enough? I put NuStock on the lump. The bottle says it's for all skin disorders, deep wounds, cuts, eliminates certain growths (abscesses?!) on animals.


Edit4: Where yesterday she had solid poop swimming in liquid, she is now only pooping liquid with a small amount of white in it (no brown since she's fasting, only liquids). That makes me feel good because I know the fast is working and is flushing out her system. I haven't fed her yet, just honey and kelp. I will probably put food in tonight so she can fill her crop before bed..



Edit5: Omg. Alright. I found another abscess, with dried blood this time, this one is on her NECK just below her beak! I noticed she was trying to peck/preen this area right below her own head and there is a lump sticking out of the feathers there! Poor baby :( I believe her right earlobe is also swollen (white). Something bit her on her head/leg and she LIVED?! What could have done this and how did I not know?! Should I get antibiotics?

this is the underside of her neck:

The abscess is like a flap that comes off her neck in a half-circle of skin with dried blood on one side of it. I made her a little e-collar out of a cupcake wrapper with a hole cut in it to shield her neck because she keeps pecking at it. I don't want her to irritate the abscess or eat the nustock.. It looks like I am going to have to lance the abscesses, still reading about it >.<

well the e-collar lasted about 5 seconds until she ripped it off. she is keen on pecking the neck abscess UGH and eating some nustock i'm afraid...



Edit6: The spot on her toe with dried nustock on it started to bleed. I looked closer and a piece of skin was flaking off from the middle of the top of the toe into the webbing between the toe. I cleaned the area (again) and snipped off the dead skin with sterilized clippers, recleaned, re-nustocked.

It has been 24 hours of liquid only, so I put her food dish inside (2hrs before her bed time), I hope this is ok. I noticed just now she was opening her mouth big and long gulps, like a baby bird looking for food - what is that about? Is it because her neck is irritated with the abscess? She has not been doing that all day.

At this point, now that I know they are abscesses, the things I haven't done are antibiotics (pending what you tell me) and draining (also pending your advice).

This person says nu-stock is good for abscesses, "It is useful for abscesses too - it draws out the goop as it dries." http://pets.groups.yahoo.com/group/NaturalHealthCareForDogs/message/15418 I hope so because I honestly don't trust taking a scalpel to lance open her NECK...
 
Last edited:
The abscess is like a flap that comes off her neck in a half-circle of skin with dried blood on one side of it.
Sounds like an injury and the body is keen to drain it (and so is she, lol) so I would probably remove the scab, drain it and put NuStock in it (except of course I'd be using Stockholm tar). Juliette de Bairacli Levy used plain rosemary tea to apply to huge wounds in her dogs and other animals without anything else, not even stitching, with great success. Some people swear by coconut oil. Some swear by honey. It's basically a matter of what you're comfortable with trying. Best wishes with that. The 'experimenting with a life at stake' bit can be nerve wracking.

It has been 24 hours of liquid only, so I put her food dish inside (2hrs before her bed time), I hope this is ok. I noticed just now she was opening her mouth big and long gulps, like a baby bird looking for food - what is that about? Is it because her neck is irritated with the abscess? She has not been doing that all day.
Could be the abscess, could be indication of disease (some of the serious ones cause abscesses as well) or it could be a result of the abscess. Or, even, she could have just gotten some honey in an itchy place. Also birds will do that when releasing excess gas, which indicates too much grain or a slowed digestive system, or it could indicate some kind of airway inflammation or blockage. If it persists I would possibly consider it a symptom. I would start researching disease symptoms, I'm not entirely sure it's just wounds she's dealing with, some of her symptoms are rather unusual for wounds to cause.

At this point, now that I know they are abscesses, the things I haven't done are antibiotics (pending what you tell me) and draining (also pending your advice).
If you're sure they're abscesses then draining and disinfecting is a good idea. I would use natural antibiotics like garlic/rosemary/oregano/etc in her diet and possibly straight into the wounds, or NuStock, and continue to keep honey water available, but you should do what you are comfortable with. There is always a chance she may not make it and you need to be able to feel you did your best, and if there's lingering doubts about doing it naturally then go with what you feel is right.

Personally, I have seen chickens with that color pattern of wattles before and wish I'd done post mortems on them, because most of them died. It's more than just a few injuries. Wattles can go like that in an otherwise unharmed bird. It means serious business. I wish you all the best with that and wish I knew what I'd done, if anything, that saved the few that did make it. It's not common and doesn't seem contagious at least but some diseases are like that so no guarantees. Particularly the abscesses of neck and ear areas often seem caused by disease though it's reassuring they have exit/entry wounds, which hopefully means it's not.

Now for some random and possibly disturbing info. I'll preface with a disclaimer that I'm speaking from experience and am not a practitioner of 'woo-woo' (which natural herbal medicine only recently began to be exonerated from).

I have once dealt with a little goat dying from starvation and snake bite abscess. He survived despite being in shocking condition and later died from eating poisonous plants. While I cured him of the snake bite infection it resurfaced with a vengeance when the plant toxins attacked him, despite being totally healed to all appearances for months.

I used electricity and silver to cure him because it was so nasty and he was so far gone I didn't know if herbs would work in time, also because he was only a day or two old when they took him from his feral mother and whacked him on just water and grass in a suburban backyard, so he was both starved almost to death and incapable of consuming the herbs with his infantile digestive system.

Recently both my mum's ragdoll mix cat and staffy mix dog came down with a severe wasting disease with neurological symptoms, and neither responded to any treatment other than being fed shavings of silver. It saved their lives. True colloidal silver is a life saver, ignore the propaganda about it, but true colloidal silver is not the easiest to find. Silver is a very powerful protector, antiviral, antibacterial. Electricity kills bad bacteria and viruses too though scientists were recently touting their development of a voltage immune virus. Like garlic though some of the strongest benefits of silver come from regular consumption, but all the same a dose out of the blue can save lives. I'd get a pure silver container for the drinking water and probably stir hard for a long while, possibly starting with pretty warm water, to get something vaguely like colloidal silver.

This electricity cure is highly controversial but no longer the stuff of 'conspiracy theorists' because it is now increasingly commonly used to regrow nerves and help kill infections among other applications. It's saved my life a few times, and I've used it on various animals with success, and over here the outback people often know that if you get snake bitten and can't reach a hospital in time, a 'zapping' will save your life. It breaks up things smaller than single cells, so anything foreign in is gets targeted.

It's done with manual cars older than the 1980's since the new ones shut down when shorting. You get it idling, parked on the spot, get a conductive wire with two bare ends, wrap one end around a screwdriver's metal, and jam it in the ground. The other end you jam into a sparkplug socket once you've taken its cap off. (You might get a zap doing this, but it won't be of sufficient voltage to harm you though it may hurt a bit). This creates a short circuit into the ground and you complete that circuit by placing both hands at once on any exposed metal on the car while your feet are bare. It should be done both hands at once because one finger won't appreciate conducting that much voltage. It doesn't hurt otherwise. Most animals aren't keen on it but some who have connected being zapped by a fence or similar with their ailment vanishing will 'self medicate' regularly on electric fences even though that can be painful.

More people on the vehicle at once reduces the strength though it's often fine for one. Don't use a tractor or big vehicle, you'd go flying and possibly die. Even five year olds can be on the vehicle alone but best with an adult to weaken the strength. Smaller animals can be held with skin contacting skin to 'zap' them, bigger animals can take it alone. To zap a smaller animal you just hold it with skin to skin while you have one hand on the vehicle and bare feet on the ground. Easiest with two people on the vehicle.

This can save you from death by severe infections including lung infection, toxic shock syndrome, bacterial overload, arrhythmia, toxicity, venom, etc. With me, personally, once I got TSS and was in the latter stages of multiple organ failure before mum got me onto the vehicle, because I was too far gone to get there even though I knew I was dying. My brain was going in circles at that point. Within a minute I felt better and after 10 I got off. Generally 5 minutes is good, 15 is better, and a repeat after an hour or several helps the body shift the now broken viral or bacterial or toxic structures.

I don't know if american cars are able to do this, certainly any that are modern enough to be chipped won't, but even milder electricity like from a nine volt battery can kill infection, though you can burn yourself with those, randomly enough. Don't know if all that info is even relevant to you but sometime in future it may save your life. If there's an electric fence running milder strength because the animals are used to it and respect it (not like full strength for those try hard animals like pigs or repeat fencebreakers) then that too could save your life if you're snake bit and far from help.

This person says nu-stock is good for abscesses, "It is useful for abscesses too - it draws out the goop as it dries. I hope so because I honestly don't trust taking a scalpel to lance open her NECK...
Time to practice getting a chook to lie still under your touch, I'd guess. Now it gets really 'woo-woo' but if you try it you will most likely learn how to do it, most people can. Once held a certain way or with a certain sort of physical communication they will lie unrestrained and motionless even to be culled. I call it 'putting the calm into them', lol. It works on even wild animals. A lot of people do it, it's just a trick to learn. We emit energy that can communicate with other creatures from a distance and some people can even change other's heartbeats from a distance, strangely enough.

This energy field we all emit, receive and walk around in (science has a few names for it and a few ways to measure it) will enable you to basically put an animal into a trance. This facilitates surgery and splinting and calmer trouble births, also stress free culling of severely damaged animals, even wild ones. Now I probably sound like a weirdo but this is actually scientifically accepted as being a real energy field we are able to manipulate, and anyone can learn to use it. I do it by feeling a core of calm in myself and projecting it onto the animal. It helps that I've spent most of my life dealing with wild animals and pets/livestock so I've learnt to fake calm if I don't feel it, and practiced making them calm by touch. Some families of people automatically use this energy, some are quite detached from it, but so far the only person who can't learn to use it is the one who believes it doesn't exist; same principle of someone who has a working limb suddenly stopping believing it works and then being unable to use it. It's just another thing I believe schoolkids will be taught in future, judging by the way the research on it is going. It's another 'air' we breathe, there's nothing 'woo-woo' about it.

All the best, I wish I had a definitive diagnosis for your chook, but treating the symptoms is as far as I can figure to do right now. Sorry for how strange the last parts of the post must seem, but it's just newer stuff people are starting to accept, one day it'll be commonly known and accepted rather than 'out-there' and possibly considered deranged. I use electric therapy as a last resort but it has saved a lot of lives. Even though it's used on athletes both human and animal, and medicinally, many people still laugh at it, same with silver therapy, and energy fields. It's still the stuff of science fiction to some whereas it's been long accepted to others and science itself proves its existence and interaction within and between humans, plants and animals. It's like the energy patterns shown of organic veg and fruit as opposed to non organic; one glows in rainbow hued spectrum and the other has dark patches and barely emits anything. This energy is relevant to how healthy food is for us.

I hope your chooks are fine. Hard to learn the 'deep end' lessons when you've just jumped in the pool for the first time! However that's usually the experience of those who will go on to have positive impacts on these areas of knowledge, so maybe in future you will be teaching me what you have found. :)
 
I was writing a longer post, but it got lost in the innerweb tubes :( it's late here, so here's a quick update:

Your words gave me confidence and it was sort of a turning point in the way I think about treating, making the decision not to go for antibiotics. I was raised on primarily holistic methods, have taken AB's only twice in my life (dire circumstances) and always prefer to go the natural route. The trouble with chickens is that they can't tell me what's wrong. I understand I may lose some chickens along the way while I learn, but hopefully it will make me better. That said, death seems like failure and man I hope Wilma lives!

Wilma seems to be doing alright. She has been perkier today, wanting to get out and walk around, but the diaper I ordered isn't going to be here until next week (Wednesday? 4 days?). She seems to be keeping herself on a mostly-liquid fast judging by her poops, a lot of them are just water with very little poop matter. She has had a solid poop though. She has also had diarrhea, not sure if it's from sickness or high water content.

Yesterday I journaled:
condition same, feet cold. I now believe that she was bit on the foot by a squirrel and the abscesses are her body's removing infection. Wilma was a flock protector and would run off pests like small birds and squirrels. I never saw them actually tangle though. The abscesses don't look any smaller with nustock (yet). Made Rosemary/Sage tea and a Rosemary compress to apply to foot and head abscesses (this washed off the NuStock). Dropped Collodial Silver in her beak & topically. Neck abscess has scab on it, is hard. Made a grain mash from the leftover herb tea with herbs in it, and garlic. Second herb compress later in the day and she voluntarily drank some herb tea. Noticed small red dots on legs. Soaked feet and legs in herb tea for 15min. She also has diarhea.

Today:
Didn't have time to do the herb compresses today. Gave coll silver dropper orally and topically. Put nustock back on all abscesses and foot. It is supposed to be left on for 3 days so I wont be applying the herbs again for 3 days.

Runty looks pretty good, still not wanting to stand on her right leg, but the more time that passes the more I'm sure it's just a little sprain. She seems perfectly content to just sit in her box all the time. I want to make her my house chicken ;) mini chicken! The (super sweet and docile) indoor cat has sniffed her and seems to care very little about the chickens at all. Mostly he just wants the attention I give them to be on him.

I swear that Betty, the remaining barred rock outside, is becoming #1 in the pecking order over Cersei. Not sure if this is related to Wilma's removal; they were very close friends. Frankie (beardface, americana) is moving up the pecking order from the very bottom. She's been here 5 weeks and is just starting to push around the 4 RIRs. Nobody else though. I am VERY impatient for our first egg (21 weeks old)! More tomorrow..
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the update, I'm very keen to see how you do, I've never treated the issues Wilma has with silver but it's probably one of the few things multispectrum enough to seriously tackle it. Hope all goes well and improves.

Regarding Cersei, often the original head honcho will lose some status as puberty hits, like how bully kids in the playground often end up working for those they bullied. Being the bigger baby only gets you so far. ;) Also larger hatchery chicks are often a bit socially unskilled and this gives them a precedence that will not last. As with both domestic and wild flocks and herds, the leader is often the smartest one rather than the biggest.

Sounds like you're doing the best you can for Wilma and she seems to be appreciating it, and responding, so hopefully it will work. All the best.
 
AHHHH :(
I think Wilma is at death's door :( things are not looking good here.. journal entries:

Quote:
I don't know what to do now. I think the weakness I'm seeing is from her not eating. I could only see one fresh poop and it was watery from the night; doesn't look like she has eaten. Weakness could also be the infection taking over her body(?). I put her on her perch and she's staying on it, so that's a good sign I suppose. edit: she just almost-fell off it. also saw her poop water just now, so the honeywater is making it's way through her.

I wish I knew what she needed =\ Maybe I should have drained these abscesses days ago? They do not look any smaller. I'm very intimidated by the idea of cutting her open. I think the throat abscess is really irritating her. Maybe that is why she doesn't want to eat.
 
Last edited:
Very sorry to hear it. The first photos you posted, and later those that showed the color of her wattles, set off strong alarm bells for me. Once they're hunching and ruffling like that, they're very sick and usually by that point already weak; once the wattles are that color not too many survive, as the wattles are indicating severely low cardiovascular function for whatever reason. It could be the toxins have worked their way through too far. I hope not.

The fasting wouldn't have weakened her at all in one day, let alone that much in one day flat. Chooks take a lot longer to starve, especially females which naturally carry more flesh and bone from infancy onwards, because their bodies begin building reserves to use to reproduce even as chicks. Don't worry about the fast, it wasn't even a complete one, that's not what's done this. She was probably well on her way once you noticed the ruffling and hunching, at least in my experience once you see a chook do that it's already lost weight. That pose can be reliably diagnosed as pain and the ruffled feathers as nausea, for any of many potential reasons. The rapid red-to-pale-to-red comb flushing, especially if it extends to the face as well, is also another severe nausea or pain indicator. When the body is under that much stress a normal diet is often harmful. In the case of toxic overload the liver is struggling to filter the toxins out of the blood and a normal diet can be the straw that breaks the camel's back. Sometimes they do fine, though, it's pretty hard to diagnose.

I would keep the honey water up to her and if she wants to sleep on the floor I would let her and make a secure warm area. Sick chooks often need to sleep on the ground. If the wound is still making progress then her system is still fighting... I would keep applying NuStock to the abscesses and hope it deals with the infection or toxins this way, I guess, since it seems perhaps a bit late to drain them, but I don't know. I did have one hen crop up with similar symptoms minus the scabs, I am fairly sure in her case it was a disease, but she also got the badly colored wattles, lump in ear, lumps on neck, neurological symptoms... I lost her but she was living at my brother's and he treated her or attempted to so I don't have any more info. Wish I had something more helpful to say. I'm sorry. If she's not eating at all giving her honey water is about the most you can do there.
 
Quote:
okay, thank you for the reassurance :')

Quote: I went out today and picked up 2 of my other hens and boy, they feel SO heavy by comparison. They're probably just about 4lbs, but Wilma must be barely 2lbs - if that. She has definitely lost weight. The feathers are deceiving.


Quote: This is so interesting, I'm saving all this information in my journal because I otherwise couldn't connect the pose/visual with how she must feel inside. Also, she was acting like this outside before I brought her into quarantine but I stupidly thought she was doing the "squat" because I'm so anxious for eggs. Sorry, Wilma. =\


Quote: By this do you mean that you would allow her to drink when she chooses? Or to keep putting it in her beak? I felt like I needed to force her to drink it because I was so panicked at her falling-over, no-energy state this morning. Now that I know she drank some, and it went through her, I can back off... Unless you think I should keep forcing it in.

I have been using a fine tip syringe to drop beads of water on the outside edge of her beak (where the top&bottom meet, near the tip), and she drinks it down from there. I'm trying not to squirt it directly in her mouth because I read that you can get fluid in their lungs doing that. If you have any tips on how to do this better, I'm all ears!

Quote:
Sage is supposed to be blood-cleansing and treats heart ailments, plus wounds/swellings externally. Rosemary is also for the heart and impure blood. I know for a fact she has been receiving these two herbs daily, but perhaps it isn't enough (except on 7/6 - I wish I had made her a tea that day). Maybe she was just too far gone by the time I brought her inside. I don't know that she's had any garlic for a few days, it's free choice. She was on daily garlic while outdoors.

I think she was acting sluggish for about a week, and it just slowly got worse. At first it wasn't very obvious to me, she would still run/follow the flock. I started getting alarmed when she just stood there alone. So far, no one else in the flock is acting this way. I'm also looking at their feet for wounds all the time. If they had wounds on their bodies, I wouldn't know it until it abscessed I guess.

Have you ever seen a tumor on a chicken? How would you know the difference in an abscess and a tumor?
 

New posts New threads Active threads

Back
Top Bottom