California - Northern

[ronott1]

I will make the hatch problem for late term easier to get to:

7. Sign: Not pipped. Full-term embryo, Large yolk sac; yolk sac may not be fully enclosed by abdominal wall, may have residurla albumen(white).

 

[casportpony]

I think humidity too high in the incubator was what happened to some of the eggs last pea season, so this year I'm trying 10% less until day 24-26.

-Kathy

 

[ronott1]

I think humidity too high in the incubator was what happened to some of the eggs last pea season, so this year I'm trying 10% less until day 24-26.

-Kathy

The things we can control that will help are:

Temperature
Humidity
Ventilation

Turning is important but it is not one of those things that a bunch more is better of. Adequate is use for a reason.

Work on the first three things and you will have good hatches.

 

[ronott1]

The things we can control that will help are:

Temperature
Humidity
Ventilation

Turning is important but it is not one of those things that a bunch more is better of. Adequate is use for a reason.

Work on the first three things and you will have good hatches.

I need to add that the above assumes you are not the breeder. If you are the breeder, flock health, including parasite control and nutrition are very important too.

 

[1zooman12]

Did I address my query about the Delaware situation to the correct folks? I have a rocky time tracing who says what to whom. Taint funny, Magee, makes for confusing correspondence.
Thanks one and all!
My best to all you fellow bird, as in enjoy. brains
Neal, the Zooman

 

[chiqita]

Did I address my query about the Delaware situation to the correct folks?  I have a rocky time tracing who says what to whom.  Taint funny, Magee, makes for confusing correspondence.
Thanks one and all!
My best to all you fellow bird, as in enjoy. brains
Neal, the Zooman 

Are you thinking of kaathyimo? If so I think she retired out of breeding dells iirc.

 

[Kaylish]

See Below for the hatch analysis trouble shooter. Save it for future reference--I have posted it on this thread too many times to count but will continue posting in any time someone needs it!

They do not get into position before day 18 which makes mal postion more of an indicator of when they died. It is not a cause of death usually.

Wonderful! I've saved it for future reference.

I don't know much about malposition but hatching is a race to get out of the egg before the o2 goes away. So airflow and o2raito in the incubator are huge. I think that's why cabinets can have better hatches lots of fresh air with high o2 content.

That makes sense - better airflow = More o2

I will make the hatch problem for late term easier to get to:

7. Sign: Not pipped. Full-term embryo, Large yolk sac; yolk sac may not be fully enclosed by abdominal wall, may have residurla albumen(white).

The things we can control that will help are:

Temperature
Humidity
Ventilation

Turning is important but it is not one of those things that a bunch more is better of. Adequate is use for a reason.

Work on the first three things and you will have good hatches.

All my quiters were at "Sign 7" - so here are my ideas - any advise on which to try and "fix" first would be great!
1. (c - temp to low) I have 2 thermometers; the one that came in the Brinsea (Eco 20) and a temp/humidity digital ordered from Incubator Wherehouse. The Brinsea is right on target but it sits above the eggs next to the fan. The digi read 99.5-99.7 when I have it at the level of the top of the eggs but a degree or 2 lower when resting on the tray.
2. (Humidity to high) I ran it at 30-35% days 1-18. Started about 63% on day 18 but it spiked as high as 80% during the hatch
3. (eggs chilled at transfer) - I did take some time to candle when I went to lockdown; maybe 20 mins - is that to long?
4. Ventilation -can't do any more for this; vest was 100% open from day 18 on.

Thanks!

 

[ronott1]

Wonderful! I've saved it for future reference.

That makes sense - better airflow = More o2



All my quiters were at "Sign 7" - so here are my ideas - any advise on which to try and "fix" first would be great!
1. (c - temp to low) I have 2 thermometers; the one that came in the Brinsea (Eco 20) and a temp/humidity digital ordered from Incubator Wherehouse. The Brinsea is right on target but it sits above the eggs next to the fan. The digi read 99.5-99.7 when I have it at the level of the top of the eggs but a degree or 2 lower when resting on the tray.
2. (Humidity to high) I ran it at 30-35% days 1-18. Started about 63% on day 18 but it spiked as high as 80% during the hatch
3. (eggs chilled at transfer) - I did take some time to candle when I went to lockdown; maybe 20 mins - is that to long?
4. Ventilation -can't do any more for this; vest was 100% open from day 18 on.

Thanks!

The humidity spike with 99.5 temps can lower Oxygen in the incubator. To help with that problem, lower the temperature to 98 degrees around day 19.

Vent open is good and on my brinsea it is a control slider that opens and closes the vent.

Humidity during incubation is important for air cell development. 30 to 35% is usually good but you may need higher humidity for light eggs--like Dorkings for example or silkies. The key is to watch the air cell and use is as a guide. Some weigh the eggs and come up with an average weight loss. If Humidity and air cell is as suspected problem, that might be a good thing to try.

 

[chrissyr]

I found something interesting out.
I sold some Bresse to a lovely French lady who now lives in CA. I met her mother upon pickup who was visiting from France.
She said she cooks the Bresse in France and NEVER rotisseries,and always with a wine sauce as well. I will ask more questions about it, but it was really neat to hear firsthand the practices

 

[chrissyr]

The humidity spike with 99.5 temps can lower Oxygen in the incubator. To help with that problem, lower the temperature to 98 degrees around day 19.

Vent open is good and on my brinsea it is a control slider that opens and closes the vent.

Humidity during incubation is important for air cell development. 30 to 35% is usually good but you may need higher humidity for light eggs--like Dorkings for example or silkies. The key is to watch the air cell and use is as a guide. Some weigh the eggs and come up with an average weight loss. If Humidity and air cell is as suspected problem, that might be a good thing to try.

I think many new to incubating try to increase humidity by closing vents . But don't realize they're diminishing oxygen