California - Northern

I have seen eggs like that develope and hatch. IS it on target growth wise? Otherwise it might be an early quitter, they can look like that too. NO giving up on franken chickjust yet!

Actually that looks Ok - the veins are in the white - the clear area is probably the air cell. I don't see a horseshoe yolk there. Yes, I have seen those ones develop and hatch. As chiqita said that can also be an early quitter. Mark the clear area with a pencil so you can check to see if it gets bigger and then put the egg with that area up when (if?) it hatches. No Frankenchicken there.
Okay so then the clear area is at the bottom of the egg then because that is fat end up and it has been sitting in the turner that way. I did let them rest for about 4 days before starting the turner. They do seem to have gotten bigger because I looked at them again last night! I couldn't help myself.
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Last night was day 10. They just don't look at all like my other non shipped eggs. I have about 7 of those shipped eggs that look like that so we will see what happens. Just don't need any Zombie Franken Chickens!
 
Welcome to the thread.. boy do you have a lot to learn!

Just a friendly warning.. do NOT research the breeds talked about on here, do NOT get an incubator and be very careful about putting a list of chickens you would like to have on here.. you may get them all and then some!

Just to start you off on the wrong foot - Most incubators hold the eggs in a semi-upright position (pointy end down) to allow the air sac to be at the top. The eggs are then tilted back and forth to give the turning motion necessary to keep the embryo from sticking to the shell in one position. Depending on the incubator people have used egg cartons or turning racks or egg racks. When you have shipped eggs the post office usually tries to scramble them before you get them - and shaking and dropping them causes the air cell to detach from its normal position. By putting them air cell upright hopefully you can re-attach it to the big end, which is where it needs to be for the chick to use it to break into to learn to breathe and operate its lungs before breaking out into the big wide world. If the air isn't there, the chick "drowns" in the shell.

There, you have been warned.. do NOT ask any more questions that can get you into chicken trouble...

P.S. - I went from 5 chickens to 45 in one year and I just put 3 dozen eggs in the cabinet incubator I just bought.. just sayin...


Great incubator info! I have been hanging back wondering. I am not to the point yet, but may be someday.

Moderator: We need a list of abbreviations for us newbies....Like BO (Buff Orpington), FBCM, etc. It would help a ton! Include the standards like SO, MIL, DH, etc too! I can compile a list of basics, but know very few of the chicken ones. If there is one...I am a dweeb and totally missing it.
 
I got my shipped eggs today!! They all came in one piece too. I tried to find and mark the air cells, but I couldn't find them. I had the same problem last time with local eggs. I couldn't see the air cell until I candled at 7 days.










 
P.S. - I have always found my blue eggs harder to see into than the brown or white eggs. I haven't tried Marans eggs yet though...
Yeah...I have no idea what is happening in my two Ameraucana eggs. I get a terracotta egg from my red stars and I can't see through those either.
Olive egger roos genetics get complicated. Boy Howdy you can say that again!
You
need to breed them back to a BLUE egg gene to get olive eggs( or a lot of olive layers) , and then they will be lighter then the egg he would have layed.

He will have
1 blue gene ( dominant)
1 white gene
1 brown spigot gene

So if your hen has 2 white genes ( dark egg layer) you will only get olive eggs when he passes his blue gene on. If you breed him to a girl with 2 blue genes, the eggs will be lighter ( his spigot gets diluted by there no spigot) but they have a chance of having double blue genes. To get olive eggers that consistantly lay olive eggs, you need birds that have 2 blue genes and a brown spigot gene. And since you cant TELL if they carry a white gene, its tough.

so, story is, its easier to get olive eggs from a wellie. Now that I understand
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That being said, I have a f2 olive egger rooster I just got back ( muffs and pea comb, so he likely has the blue gene) that should ahve dark spigot and a green egg gene. If you breed him back to blue eggs he should still have a nice olive gene. he is 3/4 Marans with blue gene. If you do want one, hes around. I call him muffler 2.
Chiquita thanks for explaining that! Because I am somewhat dull in this dept. I like the "Get a Wellie Roo" advice :)
I got my shipped eggs today!! They all came in one piece too. I tried to find and mark the air cells, but I couldn't find them. I had the same problem last time with local eggs. I couldn't see the air cell until I candled at 7 days.


Yipeeee...Bet you felt like a kid at Christmas!!!
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Ali: Since reading Chiquita's genetics lesson I am altering my previous comment to, "Keep me in mind if you have a Wellie Cockerel. I may be able to take him off of your hands
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" At what age can they be sexed? It would be great if I could just sneak him into my chicks mix mix unnoticed.
 
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Yeah...I have no idea what is happening in my two Ameraucana eggs. I get a terracotta egg from my red stars and I can't see through those either.
Chiquita thanks for explaining that! Because I am somewhat dull in this dept. I like the "Get a Wellie Roo" advice :)
Yipeeee...Bet you felt like a kid at Christmas!!!
wee.gif


Ali: Since reading Chiquita's genetics lesson I am altering my previous comment to, "Keep me in mind if you have a Wellie Cockerel. I may be able to take him off of your hands
wink.png
" At what age can they be sexed? It would be great if I could just sneak him into my chicks mix mix unnoticed.
Lol, I thought they were at hatch, but I might be wrong.
 
I got my shipped eggs today!! They all came in one piece too. I tried to find and mark the air cells, but I couldn't find them. I had the same problem last time with local eggs. I couldn't see the air cell until I candled at 7 days.










I love getting stuff in the mail! You know I am thinking that if the eggs are really fresh it is because not much of the egg has evaporated so the air cell is hard to find????? That was a guess, but it sounded good to me so I went with it.
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It has been quite busy her today!

It looks like the questions have been answered so good for all the answers!

Along with getting the aircel back where it belongs, leaving shipped egg bit end up in a turner or egg carton will help the scrambled yolk to come back together. They also need to be undisturbed for the first week so try not to bump the incubator and do not candle until day seven.

Make sure the eggs have plenty of air flow too.
 
Lol, I thought they were at hatch, but I might be wrong.
Hmmmm you gave me a research project

From the Welsummer Club of North America website
Pinkchickgirlnboy.jpg

You can sex the chicks at hatching ....... remember it all depends on the lines and it is not 100% foolproof to determine sex.
You can tell the differences of the two chicks pictured below, one is pullet on the left and cockeral on the right. The pullet has more refined markings while the cockeral has fuzzy lines. Photo: K. Malinois

ETA Kim and Ron I have read the same thing about feather sexing SGDs. Do you find that to be true?
 
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Great incubator info! I have been hanging back wondering. I am not to the point yet, but may be someday.

Moderator: We need a list of abbreviations for us newbies....Like BO (Buff Orpington), FBCM, etc. It would help a ton! Include the standards like SO, MIL, DH, etc too! I can compile a list of basics, but know very few of the chicken ones. If there is one...I am a dweeb and totally missing it.

This might help: https://www.backyardchickens.com/a/byc-index-of-abbreviations
 

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