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Can i use pocket hole joints for a small coop conctruction.

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Oops, I totally missed that -- you are right, for that I think pocket-hole IS a better way to go. Thank you!
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Although, I also have to say that for COOP framing (not run), you do not actually need strong joints at the corners of the frames -- heck, you do not need much in the way of joints there at all -- because you needn't be building a self-supporting strong skeleton at all. You can just be knocking together a plywood box with the 2x2s as, I don't know the technical term, stuff you screw into all along the places the plywood pieces join. The plywood provides all the resistance you need against the joints racking or flexing in any direction; the 2x2, what would you call them, inside corner battens?
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, give you a laaaaaarge long area to screw into to attach the plywood pieces together. Well, that did not come out very clearly but you probably know what I mean
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Pat

I do know what you are talking about Pat, and you are correct. The sheathing of a structure is what really gives it it's strength. The actual framing gives you your actual load bearing support from roof loads etc. The sheathing gives you shear strength, which is why if you are not carrying high live loads or roof loads, your framing does not need to be 16" centers like a house, there by reducing your framing costs substantially.
 
Good to hear. My local Lowes carries them and the supplies. It will take me few more weeks until i start. I want to see if i get a table-miter or circular saw fo christmas. My jig saw is nice but i am ready to get some new tools.

One more thing which fencing material should i opt for? 1/2in rabbit mesh or 1in hex mesh or else? Aerial predators are due to design not a problem. I will have the coop inside a 4ft and 5 ft chainlink fence backyard . I only have seen one load of racoon poopie weeks ago on the side of the house and my ducks and chicken is still there. I only need a 3ftx12ft piece. Oh and forgive me for misspelling and grammar failures. I am not a american citizens and learning the language since i get here
 
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Go with whatever's heaviest gauge, meaning thickest wire (the hex mesh i.e. chickenwire that is sold today is usually quite flimsy and predators can rip it apart). Half inch mesh is safer than 1" (in preventing raccoons from reaching in and yanking out handfulls of chicken, and also in discouraging weasels from getting in) but 1" is not unreasonable if you are locking your chickens into their house at night.

I only have seen one load of racoon poopie weeks ago on the side of the house and my ducks and chicken is still there.

If you're seeing racoon poo, trust me, you have LOTS of raccoons around. They can climb chainlink in the blink of an eye. THe fact that your animals have not gotten eaten yet does not mean anything. You want to KEEP it that way
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-- once predators have sampled the buffet in your coop, they will exert MUCH more effort to get in for more. So it is a lot easier in the long run to do what's needed to keep 'em from ever getting that first taste.

Good luck, have fun (and by the way, your English is quite good
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),

Pat​
 
thank you Pat.Moving to Kentucky and nobody around that spoke german i was forced to learn english real quick . My three years of learning english from our scotish born teacher didnt help too much .The first few weeks and going out to places on my own i wasnt too sure if kentuckians spoke english or what. Now i cant peak german without thowing english im it.
 
i'm totally disappointed that i didn't even know about these things when i built my coop last month
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i've done a bunch of 2x2 projects and have always hated how sloppily they went together even when i really took my time to try to get things right. oh well maybe next time.

by the way my coop is pretty nice without them but next time i have a 2x2 project, i'm definitely getting one of these.
 
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I woke up early one morning because my DD Sam was screaming and happened to see an infomercial(DH cant sleep without TV)
i told DH that i need one. They might be bit pricey but it saves nerves. Plus i love all sorts of gadgets.
 
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Someone else using the Kreg!!! We have been using the kreg to build our tractor/ coop. It has been great........between the engineer (husband) and the designer(me) our coop is in constant flux as we build. The kreg has allowed us to change and disassemble as needed when the design/plan did not meet practicallity. We are approching 4 weeks on our build and should be done this week!!!yeah.......my peeps will be out in their new home..........can't wait.
jwls
 
I wanted it mainly i thought it makes super strong joints. After we leave he for my DH's next station i would like to take the coop with me. For now i am still buying the material.
Once i have the majority of the supplies i will start building whatever i can in the basement. I f i can get huge sofa down there i should get 6x5x3 ft coop out of there , i hope
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