Cankers, Fowl Pox, or ???

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The usual dosage of metronidazole is 50 mg per pound, 250 mg for a 5 pound hen, given orally once a day. I am not familiar with the product you listed, but FishZole is available online from several sites in 250 mg capsules.

I will be honest, but I would get some of the yellow plaque material tested by your vet. Talk to them, just say you want to take a scraping or a culture, and get it looked at or tested for whatever it is. It might be more simple and less expensive (to get a diagnosis) to just send an affected chicken body into your state vet for a necropsy. But younreally should not consider breeding and selling chickens with this disease going around. Most textbooks advise culling chickens with canker.

As I said in an earlier post, many diseases—fungus, protozoa, bacterial, and viruses can cause diseases that cause the yellow plaques. I would first try to get a diagnosis, then treat or cull birds. It just seems treating this and that, and really not knowing what you are treating, is not the way to go.

A fecal test can diagnose Coccidiosis. That you have already treated. So perhaps getting the canker/whatever diagnosed, and then treating would be the way to go. Here is some info on canker:http://www.poultrydvm.com/condition/canker
 
Last edited:
Eggcessive said:
The usual dosage of metronidazole is 50 mg per pound, 250 mg for a 5 pound hen, given orally once a day. I am not familiar with the product you listed, but FishZole is available online from several sites in 250 mg capsules.

I will be honest, but I would get some of the yellow plaque material tested by your vet. Talk to them, just say you want to take a scraping or a culture, and get it looked at or tested for whatever it is. It might be more simple and less expensive (to get a diagnosis) to just send an affected chicken body into your state vet for a necropsy. But younreally should not consider breeding and selling chickens with this disease going around. Most textbooks advise culling chickens with canker.

As I said in an earlier post, many diseases—fungus, protozoa, bacterial, and viruses can cause diseases that cause the yellow plaques. I would first try to get a diagnosis, then treat or cull birds. It just seems treating this and that, and really not knowing what you are treating, is not the way to go.

A fecal test can diagnose Coccidiosis. That you have already treated. So perhaps getting the canker/whatever diagnosed, and then treating would be the way to go. Here is some info on canker:http://www.poultrydvm.com/condition/canker
Click to expand...

Thanks for the links. They were better info than some other sites I found. I’ve had a hard time finding time to look stuff up.

So I contacted the closest vet that will see a chicken (they are not my favorite vet due to past experiences and I don’t 100% trust them, plus they’re almost an hour away and very expensive) and I contacted the state vet too about some questions before I make my move as to what direction to go. Well, neither contacted me back today! Frustrating. I’ll call them again tomorrow.

Now I have a dead hen, the others SEEM to be improving however, the lesions are going down, and most of their poop looks normal. Interestingly, the hen that died didn’t have any noticeable lesions in her mouth. She pooped this morning before she died this goopy light green poop. Only 2 hens seem listless still and have green tinged poop. The really sick rooster is looking better and eating again and acting normal-ish. Also, I was able to scrape of the top of one of the mouth lesions. They are not growing in size and are staying smooth. I’m hoping it’s not cankers... but I will not let this stuff spread if it is. The birds have been under lock down since I noticed they were sick. One step at a time, I have to find out what it is.


So I have 1 rooster separated and he remains healthy and 4 unaffected hens that have been with the sick ones. Should I separate them or just leave them how they are? I don’t want the rooster to get sick. Also, I have 21 developing eggs due to hatch Friday/Saturday... the brooder is completely separate from the coop. Should I have to worry about selling these EEs that are due to hatch? I wasn’t planning on keeping these chicks when I set them... I set the eggs before the birds were ill just to work out some kinks in my incubator. I don’t want to sell sick chicks to anybody!!! But I need 21 more chickens like I need another hole in my head... I will of course keep sick bird and chick stuff separate and treat the sick ones like they are under quarantine. Which I already have been doing.


I will keep this thread updated Incase it helps someone else.
 
It will be hard to contain any disease so the new chicks will not get it. You will need to follow pretty stict biosecurity measures, disinfecting feeders and equipment between the older and newer ones, good handwashing, changing shoes, clothes, etc. Each disease is different, and there are exceptions, but most poultry diseases make chickens carriers for life, whether or not they ever show symptoms or get sick. That is why you can buy a perfectly healthy-looking carrier chicken and bring it home, only to infect your flock, while the chicken remains healthy snd unaffected. There are other articles to read about biosecurity, but here is just one to read:

http://extension.uga.edu/publicatio...&title=Biosecurity Basics for Poultry Growers
 
Here’s the results so far. And all that I can come up with as to how they became infected is when they ran out of feed they ate the rat droppings. We just started having the rat issues 2 months back. I haven’t seen signs of them with in the last 2weeks due to the rain flooding their holes under the run. We’ve been waiting ‘till it dries out to put the hardware cloth down. There is water under the coop and that’s wIt’s under the coop that they are getting in. It’s bacterial so I’ve started them on Penicillin per their recommendation. I’m still waiting on the bacteriology report to tell us exactly what bacteria is wrecking havoc on my birds. I’m glad it’s not Cankers! But I’m kicking myself for loosing a hen just over a bacterial infection. Now I have quite the arsenal! Looks like they will pull through though. And a hard lesson in keeping vermin out of our coops. Best I can guess they scratched around in the coop and picked out the poops with how many got sick. The Sexlinks must have been smart enough to not eat the rat poop.

Edited to add the results:

View attachment 1338121

View attachment 1338120
 
chickenmomma16 said:
Here’s the results so far. And all that I can come up with as to how they became infected is when they ran out of feed they ate the rat droppings. We just started having the rat issues 2 months back. I haven’t seen signs of them with in the last 2weeks due to the rain flooding their holes under the run. We’ve been waiting ‘till it dries out to put the hardware cloth down. There is water under the coop and that’s wIt’s under the coop that they are getting in. It’s bacterial so I’ve started them on Penicillin per their recommendation. I’m still waiting on the bacteriology report to tell us exactly what bacteria is wrecking havoc on my birds. I’m glad it’s not Cankers! But I’m kicking myself for loosing a hen just over a bacterial infection. Now I have quite the arsenal! Looks like they will pull through though. And a hard lesson in keeping vermin out of our coops. Best I can guess they scratched around in the coop and picked out the poops with how many got sick. The Sexlinks must have been smart enough to not eat the rat poop.

Edited to add the results:

View attachment 1338121

View attachment 1338120
Click to expand...
Can you double check the permissions on your photo album..these two photos are not viewable/error message.
 
It was much cheaper to do a necropsy! And I will know exactly what bacteria has infected my flock.

Let’s try this again! Sorry!

B333F68A-E172-421C-AFCF-B2C3EB0FF5A7.png

6864C650-073B-40EA-9A8B-5009B5031EE6.png
 

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