Ok. So I am overwhelmed right now and worried about getting my birds all treated in time and appropriately with the right amounts of the right stuff...blackhead/worms/coryza??? I'm finding it takes forever clicking on links and posts only getting tidbits of info on each thing- a new med is recommended in a post then I'm off on a goose chase looking for further info!!! sigh*
So, facts are I got spring chicks/turkeys this year around march and moved 2 mo. ago (all the birds and the entire coop) to a new yard which is kinda shady and muddy around the coop this time of year and imagine it only being worse in the spring. In the spring we hope to roll out sod over the muddy areas and get grass growing. Its the only place I could put the coop and it has to stay there. I will NOT be putting up runs because I dont want my birds confined. Inside the coop are separate sections.Turkeys and guinea in one pen, tiny bantams in another and larger bantams in a thrird section. So at night (and all winter long) they are separate from another BUT during warm weather days the 4 turkeys, 1 guinea and 30 bantams do free range on two fenced in acres together. I KNOW thats a no no (turks+chickens) BUT cannot put runs around the coop because I dont want my birds living in dirt/mud- which is what it will be even if I do spend money sodding it.I want them to have free happy lives doing as nature intended.
Everyone has been fine up until the move. Now that the cold has set in and they are allowed out less and less, I noticed a few of my chickens sneezing...sneezing turned into snuffling and snuffling into gurgled voices. There is only a couple birds that are exibiting the wraspyness, but everyone at some point has sneezed. For this I HAVE sulmet and intend to treat.
In the meantime, I have 2 turkeys I suspect may have blackhead that have started acting listless off and on for the past 3 days. (I posted about this in turkey forum but not as many people view there so am posting here). They suddenly act weak, wings drooped and just sitting on the ground. When I pick them up (mind u they are not babies anymore) they cease to struggle but shortly after I set them down they act like nothings wrong and go back to acting normal and put up a fight when attempted to be caught again... But then I see them later back to being droopy. There are NO sulpher yellow poos like I have read about and no other symptoms except they are less interested in food and their crops are rarely full. The only changes I have made to diet is I have added scratch feed and oats to their layeena layer pellets for the winter. I am in assumption that this may be the start of blackhead, as I am doubtfull of coccidia as everyone was raised on medicated feed as chicks and there were no animals previously on the ground they are on...
I would like to treat the turkey for blackhead and will be seeing if my vet will give me metronidazole for that (250mg once daily for 5 days) I also intend on giving cayenne pepper at 1 rounded tsp dissolved into 1/2c water and syringe 5cc into down birds and place cayenne in feed of others. AFTER all symptoms resolve (and hopefully they do) I want to worm them.
Now my plan is to clean out all the coop bedding and start treatmenrts- while treating Turkey for blackhead, I want to treat my chickens with the sulmet THEN deworm everyone- but know not all wormers are created equal. I HAVE wazine 17 but it does not kill cecal worms (the culprit in blackhead). SO my questions are:
I HAVE EQUI-PHAR 50MG/ML PYRANTEL PAMOATE: does that kill cecal worms? I understand repeating doses but how much do I give a robin sized bantam? large bantam? 15lb turkey?
CAN I BUY ANY FENBENDAZOLE PASTE? I do NOT want to toy with ivermectin. I want to stick to fenbendazole but see different kinds and dont want to do more harm than good. My local TSC doesnt always have the meds I read about. And the other feed stores carry barely anything for livestock let alone poultry. I see varying directions on labels and here in the forums and I dont want to kill my birds. A pea sized amount? is that regardless of which paste I get?? I have tiny bantams, large bantams AND 14lb trukeys so dosages would be...???
PEOPLE SAY THEY USE CATTLE/GOAT WORMING PELLETS? IS THAT SAFE? WHICH ONE? i would think it's be hard to now if everyone is getting correct rations. I have birds that pick around certain things while others gulp down- for instance corn and oats...i have some that see that and go crazy eating only that while others wont touch it... so if the medicated pellets look different im afraid some will go for it and others will avoid it; hense some being underdosed and others being overdosed. Again, I have TINY banties - how much would they get??
I UNDERSTANT NOT EATING EGGS FOR 2 WEEKS AFTER MEDICATION.
IM LOOKING FOR PROPER DOSAGE TO KILL ALL WORMS IN EVERYBODY. THEN I WANT TO BEGIN A DEWORMING REGIMENT IN SPRING TO PREVENT REINFESTATION AND BLACKHEAD. (Everyone is kept inside and separate all winter so will wait till warm weather and birds to start mingling outdoors agin before treating). If pyrantel kills cecal worms I will plan on using it every other month as preventative medicine. Our birds are pets so really eggs are just a bonus, I dont care if I have to waste them or sell them as incubator only eggs.
Can anyone answer if my protocal seem logical? The products I DO have acess to I will list as soon as I find out.
So, facts are I got spring chicks/turkeys this year around march and moved 2 mo. ago (all the birds and the entire coop) to a new yard which is kinda shady and muddy around the coop this time of year and imagine it only being worse in the spring. In the spring we hope to roll out sod over the muddy areas and get grass growing. Its the only place I could put the coop and it has to stay there. I will NOT be putting up runs because I dont want my birds confined. Inside the coop are separate sections.Turkeys and guinea in one pen, tiny bantams in another and larger bantams in a thrird section. So at night (and all winter long) they are separate from another BUT during warm weather days the 4 turkeys, 1 guinea and 30 bantams do free range on two fenced in acres together. I KNOW thats a no no (turks+chickens) BUT cannot put runs around the coop because I dont want my birds living in dirt/mud- which is what it will be even if I do spend money sodding it.I want them to have free happy lives doing as nature intended.
Everyone has been fine up until the move. Now that the cold has set in and they are allowed out less and less, I noticed a few of my chickens sneezing...sneezing turned into snuffling and snuffling into gurgled voices. There is only a couple birds that are exibiting the wraspyness, but everyone at some point has sneezed. For this I HAVE sulmet and intend to treat.
In the meantime, I have 2 turkeys I suspect may have blackhead that have started acting listless off and on for the past 3 days. (I posted about this in turkey forum but not as many people view there so am posting here). They suddenly act weak, wings drooped and just sitting on the ground. When I pick them up (mind u they are not babies anymore) they cease to struggle but shortly after I set them down they act like nothings wrong and go back to acting normal and put up a fight when attempted to be caught again... But then I see them later back to being droopy. There are NO sulpher yellow poos like I have read about and no other symptoms except they are less interested in food and their crops are rarely full. The only changes I have made to diet is I have added scratch feed and oats to their layeena layer pellets for the winter. I am in assumption that this may be the start of blackhead, as I am doubtfull of coccidia as everyone was raised on medicated feed as chicks and there were no animals previously on the ground they are on...
I would like to treat the turkey for blackhead and will be seeing if my vet will give me metronidazole for that (250mg once daily for 5 days) I also intend on giving cayenne pepper at 1 rounded tsp dissolved into 1/2c water and syringe 5cc into down birds and place cayenne in feed of others. AFTER all symptoms resolve (and hopefully they do) I want to worm them.
Now my plan is to clean out all the coop bedding and start treatmenrts- while treating Turkey for blackhead, I want to treat my chickens with the sulmet THEN deworm everyone- but know not all wormers are created equal. I HAVE wazine 17 but it does not kill cecal worms (the culprit in blackhead). SO my questions are:
I HAVE EQUI-PHAR 50MG/ML PYRANTEL PAMOATE: does that kill cecal worms? I understand repeating doses but how much do I give a robin sized bantam? large bantam? 15lb turkey?
CAN I BUY ANY FENBENDAZOLE PASTE? I do NOT want to toy with ivermectin. I want to stick to fenbendazole but see different kinds and dont want to do more harm than good. My local TSC doesnt always have the meds I read about. And the other feed stores carry barely anything for livestock let alone poultry. I see varying directions on labels and here in the forums and I dont want to kill my birds. A pea sized amount? is that regardless of which paste I get?? I have tiny bantams, large bantams AND 14lb trukeys so dosages would be...???
PEOPLE SAY THEY USE CATTLE/GOAT WORMING PELLETS? IS THAT SAFE? WHICH ONE? i would think it's be hard to now if everyone is getting correct rations. I have birds that pick around certain things while others gulp down- for instance corn and oats...i have some that see that and go crazy eating only that while others wont touch it... so if the medicated pellets look different im afraid some will go for it and others will avoid it; hense some being underdosed and others being overdosed. Again, I have TINY banties - how much would they get??
I UNDERSTANT NOT EATING EGGS FOR 2 WEEKS AFTER MEDICATION.
IM LOOKING FOR PROPER DOSAGE TO KILL ALL WORMS IN EVERYBODY. THEN I WANT TO BEGIN A DEWORMING REGIMENT IN SPRING TO PREVENT REINFESTATION AND BLACKHEAD. (Everyone is kept inside and separate all winter so will wait till warm weather and birds to start mingling outdoors agin before treating). If pyrantel kills cecal worms I will plan on using it every other month as preventative medicine. Our birds are pets so really eggs are just a bonus, I dont care if I have to waste them or sell them as incubator only eggs.
Can anyone answer if my protocal seem logical? The products I DO have acess to I will list as soon as I find out.
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issolve the fenbendazole product in one cup of water. Mix this solution well into the feed and give to the birds as their only feed source for one day. Safeguard is a product of Ralston Purina, and Panacur is a product marketed by American Hoechst. One ounce of medication will treat about 1000 10-oz bobwhite quail. Adjustments of the amounts of medication and feed needed may be necessary depending on the number and size of the birds.
