Chicken Math got me.

[cacklemama]

What does this mean in feet by feet?
Pics and dimensions please?

Coop and run space should calculated separately,
especially if you live where the snow/wind/cold might keep them in the coop for days on end.

Unless your run has a solid roof and wind blocked walls, that can really help.

If your run is totally predator proof and weather proof,
then you could calculate coop and run together.

Actually there's really no hard number for square footage per bird,
too many variables. The 4/10 'rule of thumb' is bare minimum.

Here's good a article by RR about Space, a must be for all chicken keepers.
http://www.backyardchickens.com/a/how-much-room-do-chickens-need

I read the article you recommended and it was very informative. I do have a question, I live in an area that can have (-) digits in the winter. Over last winter I was not using heat in my coop smaller coop 8 birds. this April I will have 28 birds in a coop that is 10'X11'x6'h are they able to maintain a sufficient temperature. Added heat is not something I want to do, what about stuffing feed bags with insulation and lining the wall in the winter?

 

[Folly's place]

That's still crowded, and ventilation is the issue, not New Jersey cold.
I think the best place for insulation is in the roof, to protect from summer sun.
Mary

 

[cacklemama]

That's still crowded, and ventilation is the issue, not New Jersey cold.
I think the best place for insulation is in the roof, to protect from summer sun.
Mary

They will have an attached covered protected run. According to what Art (by member) and what I read in the article I can include that in my space. Not all are standard size. 8 out of the 28 are bantam. Ventilation is 4 -3x3 windows plus a foot and a half of the upper walls with roof over hang for element protection. So your saying insulate the roof for summer and winter?

 

[aart]

I read the article you recommended and it was very informative. I do have a question, I live in an area that can have (-) digits in the winter. Over last winter I was not using heat in my coop smaller coop 8 birds. this April I will have 28 birds in a coop that is 10'X11'x6'h are they able to maintain a sufficient temperature. Added heat is not something I want to do, what about stuffing feed bags with insulation and lining the wall in the winter?

Insulation in walls is really not needed and can harbor rodents.
Insulating roof can help ward off solar gain in summer, but won't do much in winter.
Ventilation is key, wide roof over hangs with open soffits is one of the best winter ventilation schemes.

10x11x6 are kind of odd dimensions, how did you come up with that?
Most folks build with standard lumber dimension in mind, multiples of 4 and 8 to reduce waste.

 

[cacklemama]

Insulation in walls is really not needed and can harbor rodents.
Insulating roof can help ward off solar gain in summer, but won't do much in winter.
Ventilation is key, wide roof over hangs with open soffits is one of the best winter ventilation schemes.

10x11x6 are kind of odd dimensions, how did you come up with that?
Most folks build with standard lumber dimension in mind, multiples of 4 and 8 to reduce waste.

10 x 11 is based on sf/bird with covered protected run. 6' is high enough for me to walk around in. The lumber is mostly very reduced or free lumber from lumber yards has damaged ends so an 8' stud becomes 6'. Once we sort through our pile it may be 8'h and 12'w if we have enough to frame that. I was planning on the open soffits with over hang. If the insulation is in sealed feed bags do you think I will have a problem?

 

[Folly's place]

Feed bags will be invaded by rodents in no time!!! The birds can also open them easily. Reconsider that plan. Either leave out the insulation or cover it COMPLETELY with wood. Last winter I had rats invade my coop, eating eggs and killing birds. They chewed holes in the particle board covering the insulated walls. We removed those sheets of particle board, and the insulation, and eliminated the rodents.
Mary

 

[cacklemama]

Feed bags will be invaded by rodents in no time!!! The birds can also open them easily. Reconsider that plan. Either leave out the insulation or cover it COMPLETELY with wood. Last winter I had rats invade my coop, eating eggs and killing birds. They chewed holes in the particle board covering the insulated walls. We removed those sheets of particle board, and the insulation, and eliminated the rodents.
Mary

Hi Mary, How large is your coop and how many chickens? I see you live in Michigan so how do you deal with the winter temps. I will have ventilation but how do make sure the inside isn't a sub zero freezer?
Doona

 

[aart]

They can handle -F's. Just gotta keep their water thawed.

With adequate ventilation the temps, and humidity, inside and outside the coop are about the same. Tho they may lag. Solar gain can help warm up a coop, during the day anyway.

A covered run with wind breaks can really help get them thru the winter.

 

[Folly's place]

I have a shed type coop that's been enlarged three times now. Chicken math!!!
It's build on an old farm building foundation, 24' x 14'. I overwinter about forty chickens, including some bantams. There's electricity out there, so two heated bases for waterers, and no other heat. It has summer shade on the west side, and some wind protection on the north and west. It's still not repainted after the last rebuild!

Then in winter, two layers of plastic covering the lower six feet of the open run area, and the lower window. I need newer pictures! With snow! Inside the coop it's warmer than outside in winter, but never more humid than outdoors, and it will be below freezing.
Breed selection matters! I don't have Seramas, Silkies, or roosters with huge single combs. In general, chickens manage cold better than heat.
Mary

 

[cacklemama]

I have a shed type coop that's been enlarged three times now. Chicken math!!!
It's build on an old farm building foundation, 24' x 14'. I overwinter about forty chickens, including some bantams. There's electricity out there, so two heated bases for waterers, and no other heat. It has summer shade on the west side, and some wind protection on the north and west. It's still not repainted after the last rebuild!
View attachment 1283128 View attachment 1283130 View attachment 1283133
Then in winter, two layers of plastic covering the lower six feet of the open run area, and the lower window.View attachment 1283134 View attachment 1283139 View attachment 1283141 I need newer pictures! With snow! Inside the coop it's warmer than outside in winter, but never more humid than outdoors, and it will be below freezing.
Breed selection matters! I don't have Seramas, Silkies, or roosters with huge single combs. In general, chickens manage cold better than heat.
Mary

You have a nice setup. I'm new to chickens obviously and just don't want to screw it up.
I have EE,SLW, Brahma, polish top knots. In brooder 2 week old jersey giants.
So the 24x14 is including enclosed run?