Chicken with a prolapse, please help BE AWARE THERE IS A PICTURE OF IT!

Chicken Boy1234

6 Years
Mar 31, 2013
So its been lasting for a week. We have bathed it in warm water with sugar and salt in it (the vet told us this) for about 3 days. It shrinks when it is bathing but when we try and put it back in it pops back out after 20 mins or under! We have tried all the honey stuff, it didn't work. Please if you know of anything what might help us could you give us the info, I am not giving up. (She has a red mark on her tummy and it is all bald, do you think she is egg bound Here's a picture

P.S. here is my original thread
So, I recently got 6 new chickens, they all acted normal for the first day. I went to feed the chickens the following morning and everything was fine. I got 5 eggs. We then went down at about 3:30 to play with them. I noticed, when we were playing, one of the chickens had blood near its bottom, I knew this wasn't right so I picked it up and found that there was a prolapse. We went and got honey and anti bacterial liquid as we found out what to use on the internet! We picked her up and covered her head in a big red blanket, to calm her. We gently dabbed some antibacterial liquid onto the prolapse and then gently smothered the prolapse with honey. We successfully got it back in, we then looked away at the cockerel crowing and quickly looked back, there was a big squidgy egg now on the floor. We took the hen home in a cat carrier with some straw in it and gave her chick crumbs and fresh water. The next day (today) we looked at the prolapse and it had shrunk a little. Just now we have let her go free in the garage and cleaned it free of any poop, we also smothered it in honey. She appears lively and happy.
What Are The Causes? There can be several reasons why a "prolapse" can occur, here are just some of them.

Overweight: Birds are more at risk of "prolapse" due to general muscle weakness and a tendency for larger eggs being laid. Fat also accumulates around the reproductive tract.
Underweight: Birds that are underweight can also suffer "prolapses" if they start to lay before the reproductive tract is mature enough to cope. This can be caused by an incorrect diet while the bird is still young and growing.
Insufficient Calcium: Unbalanced feed will cause problems with the formation of egg shells and muscle weakness in the bird. If muscles are weak it can prevent the oviduct from retracting after laying.
Laying Double Yolked Eggs: The size of these eggs can can stretch and therefore weaken the cloacal muscles this means that the oviduct is exposed for a much longer period of time after the egg has been laid.
Light: Birds that are exposed to increasing day length before the reproductive tract has fully matured are more likely to "prolapse", because the reproductive tract may not be fully matured when they begin lay.
Space: Overcrowding, hens need space to scratch about and develop their muscles.

The first sign that a prolapse may happen is blood streaked eggs being laid. The best way to try and avoid prolapses from occuring in your hens is to feed correctly with a commercial feed like Layers Mash/Pellets which contain all the nutrients in the correct amounts and not to feed corn based feeds or give treats in large amounts or too often. Layers Mash/Pellets should be in a feeder which is topped up daily and the chickens should be able to feed all day. Do ensure your hens have access to mixed poultry grit at all times as this aids digestion and helps towards egg shell formation. It is very important that birds have the correct feed from day old to adulthood so they grow at the correct rate and remain healthy.

Treating Yourself / Self Treatment.....
1. Isolate the bird
2. Put on some rubber gloves
3. Wash the area well with an antibacterial soap or baby shampoo… rinse well… put some white or brown vinegar in the final rinse water, you don’t need much, the vinegar removes all traces of soap on the skin and neutralizes any harmful ingredients that may be in the soap … vinegar is also a great disinfectant
4. You may find the skin in and around the vent has been damaged … check this while you are washing the bird
5. Dry the bird with towels, use a hair drying on low, and make sure you have a warm area to place the chicken. No drafts, if you have a heating pad to put the bird on the dry off this would be excellent, if not dry as much as you can with the hair dryer fluffing the feathers up as you do it
6. Do a final clean with warm water and betadine (iodine)
7. Push the prolapse back in with your finger, using pure honey… it has excellent healing properties and is an natural antibiotic … you will find any maggots that are inside the bird will back out
8. Treat the damaged area with Neosporin (antibiotic powder) … you may decided to pass on this if you use the honey method
9. Spray the area once cleaned with 'purple spray' same as used on sheep and horses
10. Keep the bird isolated until it has completely healed and also making it easier for you to watch the area and treat again if necessary
11. Feeding to heal…. 1 cup of dry mash, 2 cups of buttermilk, 1 tablespoon of yoghurt, mix well… the bird can drink the yoghurt mash mixture… restores the good bacteria in the gut… also feed its normal rations if it finishes this…
12. You may find the droppings become a bit wetter than normal. So make sure you keep the cage or isolation area really clean
13. Watering to heal - 2 litres of water, 20ml apple cider vinegar… don’t use the apple cider vinegar if you are going to use antibiotics the two clash and cancel each other out… make this the only source of water available for 5 days…. Helps to cut through any mucus that may have built up inside the bird due to low immunity.
14. You can apply vaseline on a daily basis to the vent, you will no if healing well as you should be able to see the vent moving/retracting.
15. Consult a vet if the prolapse re-occurs or keeps re-occuring

Backyard chicken-keepers should know that a "prolapse" is manageable.
Just to let everyone know, Dolly has been put to sleep, Fly high brave girl
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